Community Forums

AbyVan · 06-14-2024, 06:33 AM

I opted for a Vitrifrigo marine fridge and (separate) freezer when I had my Sprinter converted. I have never understood why the RV/van industry does not adopt marine quality goods - these goods are built to withstand voyages across the ocean in storms and seem to be built to a much higher standard. Also used marine vinyl flooring as there will be spills and there will be water leaks so best to just be prepared.

Quality Air · 06-22-2024, 09:10 AM

That's not true anymore, as they are now using iso-butane as the refrigerant.

bigchick · 06-23-2024, 08:28 AM

funny!

the residential refrigerator (fridgedair) in our 5th wheel is going on 10 years old and works just fine! and we have towed it quite a few miles.

in that same time period we have had to replacement or repair two refrigerators in our home. one was an LG and the other was a kenmore that we found out was built by LG. the internet is full of bad stories concerning the LG linear refrigerator compressor.

Rhagfo · 06-24-2024, 12:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by charliez

For sure, all of my rv fridges took a day or two to get down to temp. The dorm fridge I just put in took about an hour and that was with no extra buckets of ice to help it.

I installed a JC Refrigeration 12 volt compressor cooling unit in our Domestic refer, consistent temps. Refer 33to 35, freezer -5 to +5.

Jay D. · 06-25-2024, 10:57 PM

I wouldn't trade my LP refrigerator for 2 new 12v comp refrigerators. the 12v frig is ok IF you're not going to be without power for 2-3 or 4 days. OH but i have solar and a couple lipo battery's. what if the sun don't shine, or you in the trees or mountains and only get sun a few hours a day. after about 2 days your ether going to have to move or let your food spoil. as far as cooling, my lp cools just fine. i plug it in usually the night before, empty in takes about 2-3 hours and its cold. if you store your food in the home frig and load it into your lp frig it takes less than an hour. recovery time is quick if the door is opened several times preparing food. maybe i'm old school BUT you just can't convince me 12 volt is good, UNLESS you plan on being hooked to 120 power all the time. I like the versatility of being able to go with out hookups for several days and not worry about the frig.
Jay D.

kdauto · 06-26-2024, 09:52 AM

I agree 100%

Sbrownstein · 06-26-2024, 10:30 AM

Actually there are 3 choices. (1) LP adsorption, (2) 12 volt direct and (3) residential with inverter. I have had LP and residential. Wouldn't go back to LP. The 12 volt units appear to be poorly designed with the exception of the JC conversion...

terrylane · 06-26-2024, 11:32 AM

The other pieces of mechanical refrigeration in an RV are the rooftop a/c units. I suspect systems designed for RV use just have better anti-vibration mounts to reduce sudden horizontal and vertical movement of the compressor. Probably a more important factor is all the times the RV is not level, the clearances inside a compressor are small and designed for level operation.

Refrigerant leak repair or compressor replacement is something that should not require removal from the RV. Compressor access is from the lower rear part of the unit. If you have enough room, you could pull it out of the slot and turn it and have access for work.

If it was me, and there was access as described above, I would call a good residential refrigeration mechanic to come out and do the work, no doubt that is what they would do at the dealership or RV repair shop. He may not guarantee the work because it was in an RV but if he does good work you should be OK.

If you did need to replace the entire unit then getting the new unit in would be the big deal. Laying a new residential refrigerator compressor on it's side would be a bad move and may impact it's longevity, especially if you are jostling it around to get it through a window. If the only space problem is getting the old out and not the new in, then it might be time to get a new blade for your sawzall.

Cumminsfan · 06-26-2024, 12:58 PM

I had a residential repair guy from GE come and look at my 12V early on. I was not used to the wild temp swings. But thenm again I hadn't had remote freezer/fridge temps sensor in any fridge before.

When he showed up he was expecting to go in my house and look at my fridge. When I told him it was in my RV in my driveway he was stumped. Once I gave him a tour he was all in. My TT still had the outside gas fridge removable access panel so he could look at the stuff on the rear of the fridge. Once inside the TT it was no different than a res fridge.

He ended up ordering for me (Free) a new thermostat and ECU part. He said my 12V fridge was as basic as you can get. Nothing to fix but the therm and ECU. Cheap parts. I still have the ECU in the box and the therm didn't change the temp swing issue. It' just the nature of my 12V GE fridge. No food has ever spoiled so I can't complain after 3 seasons.

Once I learned a few tricks it's been great. If you never are hooked to elec then by all means a gas/elec is the way to go. If you do some of each then a 12V is doable. If you do mostly 80/20 elec hookups the it's hard to beat a 12V fridge. Maybe one of the reasons why mine has been trouble free is it has very few gadget parts. No touch screen, only one temp knob for both the freezer and main fridge.

The GE repair guy said it's pretty much 1970's technology. Kinda like gas/elec fridges.

xc-mark · 06-30-2024, 08:39 AM

10 years with a Resi fridge, it has a ice maker and would NEVER consider a trailer without one. Absorbtion ammonia frig has it place for boondocking, but I have enough solar and batteries to run the fridge for 3~4 days without sun or utility power. With sun light I can run off the grid in definitely.

Rough riding camper could be the real cause of your failed fridge , something to consider.