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Originally Posted by 6Kampers
Question is; how much sag should I allow with F250!? Do I really want to level truck back out or no!? My thought process was the truck was built to drive with some sag!??
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I wouldn't worry about sag in the rear suspension as much as the proper loading of the front suspension. Here are the instructions for setting up a Reese WD hitch:
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Originally Posted by Reese
1. Pick reference points on front wheel well. Measure and record distance to pavement. Front wheel well to pavement ___________________
2 . thru 6. = install hitch and connect trailer to tow vehicle with the spring bars trightened.
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7. Lower jack. Re-measure front wheel well reference point. The front wheel well height should be equal to the original measurement. If the front wheel well height is higher than originally measured, reduce the number of links between the yoke hook and spring bar (4 links min.) and recheck the wheel well measurement. If the front wheel well is lower than originally measured, increase the number of chain links between the yoke hook and spring bar and recheck the wheel well measurement. If the original wheel well height is not achievable, it is preferred that the wheel well height is lower after the spring bars are loaded. If there are no more chain links for adjustment, the head assembly must be tilted forward. The trailer must be uncoupled and the upper bolt removed from the head assembly. The head is then pivoted up as appropriate. Reassemble and recheck the wheel well height.
8. A new term in the industry is (“FALR” – Front Axle Load Return). 100% FALR Means the front fender is returned to the preload position. That is our recommendation for best performance.
Check to see if trailer is level, if not, you may need to re-adjust ballmount angle and / or position.
Check to see that there is room for the bar and chain to move when turning a corner.
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http://www.reeseprod.com/content/dow...ion/N66022.pdf
When hitch weight is added to the ball, the rear axle acts like a fulcrum and raises the front of the tow vehicle as it lowers the rear (increases the sag in the rear end) of the tow vehicle. As the spring bars are tightened, hitch weight is distributed off the rear axle and onto the front axle. The tighter the spring bars, the more weight is distributed. So you want to distribute enough hitch weight to bring the front fender back town to it's original height off the ground. If you achieve that, then the rear axle should be good too.
Your Equal-I-Zer hitch uses screws instead of chain lengths, so you must adapt the instructions to adjust the Equal-I-Zer. Instead o adding or subtracting chain lengths, you would lengthen or shorten the adjusting screws. Perhaps you can find similar install and set-up instructions for your Equal-I-Zer so you don't have to adapt the Reese procedure.
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Grumpy ole man with over 60 years towing experience. Now my heaviest trailer is a 7'x16' 5,000-pound flatbed utility trailer, my tow vehicle is a 2019 F-150 Lariat 3.5L EcoBoost SuperCab with Max Tow (1,904 pounds payload capacity).
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