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Originally Posted by Superslif
Here is the real question. How do they (RV dealer service dept.) set the correct height on an empty trailer? This new trailer looks like it is going to be tongue heavy, as all the exterior storage is in the front bay. So how will the service tech compensate for a empty trailer?
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They won't. If they have any brains, they will adjust the WD hitch for the empty trailer so it will be properly set up for your 1,500 mile trip home. Then they should advise you to change it before you go camping with a loaded trailer.
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This new trailer does come with two 30 lb. propane tanks and two batteries.... Most likely I will be driving 1500+ miles solo (truck only / no trade) for the new empty trailer.
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Before the tech adjusts the hitch on the "empty" trailer, be sure the propane tanks are full, with enough water in the fresh water tank to flush the pottie while on the road. Plus if you will be hauling any weight in the "empty" trailer for the trip home, be sure that weight is also in the trailer before the tech adjusts the WD hitch.
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Normally I'll have 2-3 bikes in the truck, some firewood.
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Forget "normal" for the trip home. Have the tech set up the hitch for the "empty" trailer and the actual weight in the tow vehicle.
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Outdoors RV Timber Ridge 24RKS (880 dry tongue)
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Ignore that dry tongue weight - it's understated. Instead, after you have the TT loaded for the trip home, then use a tongue weight scale to get the actual tongue weight of the trailer.
After you leave the RV dealership with the trailer, then go to a truck stop that has a certified automated truck scale, fill up with gas, then and weigh the rig twice - once with the trailer tied on but without the spring bars tight, and the second time without the trailer.
Subtract the weight of the tow vehicle without the trailer from the weight with the trailer. The answer is gross trailer weight.
Divide the actual tongue weight by the gross trailer weight to get percent of tongue weight. If the answer is not at least 10% and not more than 15%, then move weight in the trailer until you achieve a tongue weight of 10% to 15% of gross trailer weight. (If I'm the one doing it, for that long drive home, I'll continue moving weight until I achieve 12% to 14% tongue weight.)
While the trailer is disconnected from the truck, measure the distance from a point on the front fenderwell to the ground. Remember that distance, or write it down.
Connect the trailer and the WD hitch, with the spring bars tightened to where the tech thought they should be. The floor of the trailer should be level front to rear. If not level front to rear, disconnect and adjust ball mount on the adjustable shank of the WD hitch to result in a level trailer with the spring bars tight, then hook it all back up, with the spring bars tight.
Then measure the distance from that same point on the front fenderwell to the ground. The distance should be between zero and one-half inch higher with the spring bars tight than without a trailer. If it's more, then tighten the spring bars another notch and measure again. If it's less with the trailer than without, then loosen the spring bars a smidgen and measure again.
With a level trailer and properly adjusted spring bars to result in the correct front fender height, then you should be ready to safely hit the road for home.
But after you get home, and before you head out to go camping, go though the same process again to match the wet and loaded trailer to the wet and loaded tow vehicle.