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Old 07-22-2018, 06:43 PM   #1
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Stay hooked up 5th riding high in front

When traveling I would prefer to stay connected for overnight only spots. My Chaparral 30 RLS rides about2 -4 inch high (eye ballin it).



Since I would like to stay level for the sake of the refridg,



Would caring a (one or 2 for each side) couple of 4 x 6 (x length of tire-to-tire) .... backing onto them to raise the trailer only work. Works in my head but don't want to waist my time if it's been tried and not feasible?


Thanks
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Old 07-22-2018, 06:56 PM   #2
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Yeah, that should work.
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Old 07-22-2018, 07:03 PM   #3
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My 5er days are far behind me. I would try and get the unit to sit level on the truck/wheels. The weight will be better distributed on the tires and the brakes will be more effective.
The pin box may be adjustable as well as the axles.

I think more experienced and current users will be along to help.
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Old 07-23-2018, 01:27 AM   #4
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Yes, the wood cribbing will definitely work fine.
Speaking of the pin box and hitch adjustment. How much clearance do you have between the truck bed and the trailer front cap? If it's more than approx. 6-7" you might lower the nose to be more level, less plank required.
Just a thought.
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Old 07-23-2018, 01:42 AM   #5
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Most pin boxes and 5th hitches can be adjusted for height. As stated above keeping it level while driving is important enough. Also some rigs allow limited height adjustment where the springs bolt onto the frame.

Info as to your pin box and hitch will allow folks to better contribute.
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Old 07-23-2018, 11:33 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CF-104 View Post
Would caring a (one or 2 for each side) couple of 4 x 6 (x length of tire-to-tire) .... backing onto them to raise the trailer only work. Works in my head but don't want to waist my time if it's been tried and not feasible?
That would work fine for when you're parked. You can also use leveling blocks like these:
https://www.etrailer.com/Camper-Jack...48-979051.html

Leveling blocks are usually used only to level the trailer side to side when parked on a sloping RV site, such as when boondocking. But nothing says you cannot use them for leveling front to rear too.

But for safety as well as reefer operation, you want the floor of the trailer level front to rear when on the road, too. Although most 5er hitches are adjustable for height, you cannot lower the hitch enough that it results in less than about about 6" clearance between the top of the bed and the underside of the 5er overhang. Or you'll have a crunched bed when crossing ditches to exit the highway and enter a convenience store.

If you cannot adjust the hitch enough to retain at least 6" clearance and still have a level floor of the trailer, then you need to either raise the trailer on its suspension, or lower the tow vehicle. Raising a trailer that has common leaf spring suspension is often callled "flipping the axles" on the trailer, but you don't literally turn over the axles. Instead you (or your welder) move the spring perches from under the axle to over the axle. That raises most trailers about 4". If your trailer has Dexter TorFlex axles with no leaf springs, then Dexter sells a kit that will raise the trailer a little.
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Old 07-23-2018, 11:59 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SmokeyWren View Post
That would work fine for when you're parked. You can also use leveling blocks like these:
https://www.etrailer.com/Camper-Jack...48-979051.html

Leveling blocks are usually used only to level the trailer side to side when parked on a sloping RV site, such as when boondocking. But nothing says you cannot use them for leveling front to rear too.

But for safety as well as reefer operation, you want the floor of the trailer level front to rear when on the road, too. Although most 5er hitches are adjustable for height, you cannot lower the hitch enough that it results in less than about about 6" clearance between the top of the bed and the underside of the 5er overhang. Or you'll have a crunched bed when crossing ditches to exit the highway and enter a convenience store.

If you cannot adjust the hitch enough to retain at least 6" clearance and still have a level floor of the trailer, then you need to either raise the trailer on its suspension, or lower the tow vehicle. Raising a trailer that has common leaf spring suspension is often callled "flipping the axles" on the trailer, but you don't literally turn over the axles. Instead you (or your welder) move the spring perches from under the axle to over the axle. That raises most trailers about 4". If your trailer has Dexter TorFlex axles with no leaf springs, then Dexter sells a kit that will raise the trailer a little.

Thanks ... I think thats going to be the answer. I have about 5.5 - 6 inch of free board over the rails so I don't think I can monkey with that.





Thanks Again .... expert advice on this forum .... appreciated.
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Old 07-23-2018, 12:13 PM   #8
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Have you placed a level on floor of freezer or shelf in food compartment to check 'level' when hooked up?


Towing nose high is NOT ideal.
Transfers weight to rear trailer axle
Lighter pin weight
ETC


Go to a flat/level parking lot and measure differences between trailer frame front to rear ......
Correct Track by LCI is a bolt on 'alignment' component AND will raise trailer roughly 2"
One easy option to limit your nose high condition AND align your trailer axles


https://www.amazon.com/Lippert-87220.../dp/B00JMHF15G
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Old 07-23-2018, 05:29 PM   #9
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I just raised my 5er at the double axle 4 inches so that it tows level.

Regarding your question about using blocks to lift the tires, sounds good to me as a temporary solution until you level the trailer.

Lifting the trailer 4 inches put me at 14 feet. Legal west of the Mississippi, but 6 inches too high east of the Mississippi. I am replacing the front a/c to get it back down to 13 feet 7, one inch illegal back east but that is the best I can feasibly do.
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