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Old 04-12-2022, 09:10 PM   #1
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stop, Stop, STOP!

Hauled the 5er out of storage with a new to us 2014 3500. Trailer not recognized, did the screen thing, high electric over hydraulic, tried bed/bumper both a few times but still not detected. My old 3/4 had no problems with the brakes working on the trailer but nothing with this truck. Going to rewire a new plug on the 5th wheel but any insight would be appreciated. Going to search for another 7 plug trailer to hook up to and try to eliminate a truck issue. All lights work, running, turn and brake but can tell no trailer braking going on. 16,000lbs so slow and local till this gets figured out. I know I was way over with an ol 2500 but I literally crawled a mile away for a summer. Now that I have a truck to go the distance, I want them talking to each other.
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Old 04-12-2022, 09:15 PM   #2
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Some of the newer vehicles have to have the braking/towing circuit turned on via the vehicle computer. Ran me nuts with the tow circuit on my Jeep until I found this out
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Old 04-12-2022, 10:07 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5er2life View Post
Hauled the 5er out of storage with a new to us 2014 3500. Trailer not recognized, did the screen thing, high electric over hydraulic, tried bed/bumper both a few times but still not detected. My old 3/4 had no problems with the brakes working on the trailer but nothing with this truck. Going to rewire a new plug on the 5th wheel but any insight would be appreciated. Going to search for another 7 plug trailer to hook up to and try to eliminate a truck issue. All lights work, running, turn and brake but can tell no trailer braking going on. 16,000lbs so slow and local till this gets figured out. I know I was way over with an ol 2500 but I literally crawled a mile away for a summer. Now that I have a truck to go the distance, I want them talking to each other.
Does your trailer have electric brakes or hydraulic brakes?

Does your volt meter or test light show you are getting power to the brake pin on your outlet?
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Old 04-13-2022, 12:44 PM   #4
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Run down to Advance Auto Parts and get one of these:
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Old 04-13-2022, 04:42 PM   #5
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it varies by pickup truck make/RV combo, but you may need a CAM (basically a resistor as I understand it). Here's an example:

https://www.hydrastarusa.com/product...dapter-module/
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Old 04-21-2022, 02:06 PM   #6
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I had a similar problem on my dump trailer. I tracked down the frame ground connection on the trailer, shined it up and applied dielectric grease which solved the problem. The next issue was that my 5er lights would work but truck would not produce enough tail light amps to run the trailer cameras. I bought an in line adapter from Furrion that solved that problem. Etrailer has something similar
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Old 04-21-2022, 10:29 PM   #7
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Hooked up the truck to a new trailer with a 7-way plug, truck picked it up right away. So it's a my trailer issue, a 12yr old plug on the rig that had electrical tape and alotta flex to it. Wired up a new plug and still notta as far as the truck "seeing" the connection. Fortunately I have an access door where the truck to trailer cable feeds into the rig, thank you Nu-Wa. Found a blown 30amp fuse where the truck/5er cable gets dissected on the trailer to do each wires task. Fingers crossed that it's simply a fuse replacement and it doesn't pop right away.
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Old 05-06-2022, 08:43 PM   #8
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Dave, this may help explain how to diagnose integrated brake controller issues.


https://nuwaowners.org/forum/index.php?topic=21628.0


This came from the NuWa owners Forum.


Hope that helps.


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Old 05-07-2022, 03:58 PM   #9
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Much appreciated Tim. After further investigation I discovered that shoving the excess length of power cord back into the trailer caused it to pull apart my electric brake wires coming from the fuse panel. Fortunately having a small access door for the truck/trailer cord allowed me to find the one bare wire and the other with the twist connector still attached. Both light blue, put them together and wa-la, my brakes showed up and the truck and trailer are happy. I need to zip tie my wiring up and out of the way to avoid a repeat.
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Old 05-08-2022, 03:30 AM   #10
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Suprising to hear, as the trailer cable on my H.H. has clamps to relive the strain on the wires going to the fuse block.


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Old 05-09-2022, 04:16 PM   #11
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It was more of a 8 feet of cable being shoved in there then anything, tangledup in the wiring. The cable decides where it wants to go, pulled out alot of length to hook to the truck because batteries were struggling with the jacks and tailgate was down. Now that I'm aware, easy fix and preventable from here on. Did our shake down this weekend after being in storage for 7 months, no problems, love this rig! Grateful for this site and the wisdom I've gained from it. Solid truck/trailer combo, working towards full-time eventually. Thank you for the link
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Old 05-09-2022, 07:24 PM   #12
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[QUOTE=5er2life;6173415 Fortunately having a small access door for the truck/trailer cord allowed me to find the one bare wire and the other with the twist connector still attached. Both light blue[/QUOTE]

This caught my eye . "Twist connector".

If what you mean by that is a residential electric wire twist connector . There's your problem.

Those twist connectors should never be used in a motor vehicle of any sort .

Butt Splice connectors are the only connectors to be used in a vehicle .

The vibration of driving will loosen the connector to the point of failure , and in a situation where the wire is in tension it will unravel and release .
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Old 05-15-2022, 02:42 PM   #13
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There's something to be said for a removable shore power cord with a plug on the side of the trailer. It's an option I want on my next trailer.
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Old 05-16-2022, 02:58 AM   #14
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I believe that when he mentioned a twist connector, he was talking about a wire nut.


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