Community Forums

chertz · 06-16-2015, 05:12 AM

I have always wondered if folks got enough tongue weight on these toy haulers....

It is my belief (and I will certainy get skewered by the 1/2 ton love assoc.) That a 3/4 ton is always a good upgrade over a 1/2. Price is not much different but huge improvement in brakes, frame, axles. I believe in having more truck than needed. As fast as gas vs diesel... I chose diesel... it's not for everyone. With a 27 footer you don't need it unless maybe if you are in the mountains alot. Diesels pull amazingly well though that is true. As far as brand.... depends on what you like and if we are talking new or used... I think all 3 make some great trucks. I would advise if going diesel though to avoid the Ford 6.0 and 6.4. And stay pre-emissions. For me an 06-07 LBZ duramax or 03-07 cummins are pretty hard to beat. I personally chose the cummins...

jesilvas · 06-16-2015, 05:46 AM

Something no one asked is if the sway is the whole rig (truck and trailer together) or just the trailer?

If the whole rig sways, that's just how it will be with your truck due to tires, weight, etc. Heck, my one ton dually sways with a trailer because it's a lot of wind, but I know how to anticipate and handle it, even thought it's not a ton of sway.

If it's just the trailer, I'm thinking improper hitch.

NFlcamper · 06-16-2015, 08:03 AM

I had the same trouble with my old truck. It was a '04 GMC Z71 with tow package but came with P metric tires. 27' toy hauler is a lot to control for a 1/2 ton truck. Changing to LT tires helped, but I was still over my GCWR and max tongue weight. I could only tow in flat Florida as 8,800 lbs with bike or 9200 lbs with golf cart was hard on the GMC. I moved up to a Dodge 2500 with diesel motor and now tow a lot easier, steadier, and anywhere I want. The new truck weighs in at 7,800 lbs and that is 2,300 more than the GMC. The weight of the truck helps tame the weight of the trailer amplified by the length of the trailer. Get something that long and heavy swaying, and it takes a lot to keep it under control. Much better feel towing now, with 3/4 ton, than with 1/2 ton truck.

SmokeyWren · 06-16-2015, 12:52 PM

Your problem is probably your cheap Ultra-Fab hitch with inadequate sway control. If your WD hitch costs less than $500 from a discount source, then it's probably a cheap hitch.

Ultra Fab Weight Distribution Hitch 1000lbs w/ Sway Control Ball

Also, your wet and loaded trailer probably has more than 800 pounds tongue weight, so be sure the new hitch has 1,000 or 1,200 pounds tongue weight capacity.

Throw away that cheap hitch and replace it with a good one. Good ones will cost you more than $500, but they will get the job done when properly installed and adjusted. There are several good WD hitches on the market that will cost you from $500 to $650 (list price around $1,000) plus your DIY install and adjustment.

Reese Strait-Line trunnion-bar with 1,200 pound spring bars and adjustable shank:
Strait-Line Weight Distribution System w Sway Control - Trunnion Bar - 1,200 lbs TW Reese Weight Distribution RP66084

BlueOx with 1,000-pound spring bars:
Blue Ox SwayPro Weight Distribution w/ Sway Control - Clamp On - Trunnion - 1,000 TW Blue Ox Weight Distribution BXW1000

Equal-I-Zer with 1,000 pound spring bars:
Equal-I-Zer with 1,000 pound spring bars

Husky Centerline

Head unit:
Amazon.com: Husky 31390 Center Line Head Assembly: Automotive

Spring bars for Husky CenterLine:
CenterLine spring bars

And for a lot more money (over 4 times the cost of a Strait-Line), you can have the best WD hitch in the business - Pro-Pride. Guaranteed no sway - ever! Yes, that's the one with which I tow my TT. But I'm not sure it's worth 4 times the cost of a Strait-Line. I towed my TT with a Strait-Line for years with never a hint of sway, so the investment in the Pro-Pride was just in case I some day ran into that rare combo of conditions that would cause sway with a Strait-Line but not with a ProPride.
http://www.propridehitch.com/product...ol-Hitch-.html

wandering1 · 06-16-2015, 03:25 PM

Get a truck that will control the trailer. If you do not have an adequate TV then 100 wdh and sway bars wont help. Sounds like you have a suicide rig.

skid_o · 06-16-2015, 11:10 PM

Watch this video. Truck with sway control.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cVlXlbU38zA

justafordguy · 06-17-2015, 11:39 AM

Wow, that trailer sway control system sure seems to work well.

Menendez · 06-18-2015, 06:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wandering1

Get a truck that will control the trailer. If you do not have an adequate TV then 100 wdh and sway bars wont help. Sounds like you have a suicide rig.

By what means would the TV itself prevent a trailer prone to sway from swaying?

NFlcamper · 06-18-2015, 01:59 PM

A TV that is not adequate will, when swayed start swaying itself. A heavier and more adequate TV will not be swayed by a TT, but keep sway from building beyond a minor amount. Sway not controlled will flip the rig.

SmokeyWren · 06-20-2015, 09:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Menendez

By what means would the TV itself prevent a trailer prone to sway from swaying?

Some newer pickups have built-in sway control in the software\firmware that makes up the TV's drivetrain control system (Ford calls it the Powertrain Control Module or PCM, others call it the electronic control module or ECM), combined with the anti-lock braking system (ABS) software. When the sensors feel the beginnings of sway, the computer(s) apply the brakes one wheel at a time to counter the sway. It works for small sway conditions, but not nearly as well for severe sway conditions as a good weight-distributing hitch with a good sway control system, such as the Reese Strait-Line hitch.

My F-150 has the factory built-in sway control software, but I also paid the big bucks to install a ProPride weight-distributing sway-elimination hitch on my travel trailer. So I don't have any sway, even under the most severe conditions.

Aussie Mike · 06-20-2015, 10:12 AM

Some vehicles are prone to sway regardless - if so, there are mods available for most steering systems (being more than just sway bars) which takes the continual left, right, left, steering correction out of driving and generally stabilises the vehicle for more safer and comfortable travel.
Suggest google on "motorhome steering stabiliser" to get some ideas and brand names in your area.
If your Rv is fine and trailer weight is not the problem, there are also mods available for the trailer which 'brake' the movement from side to side.
Hope this helps

Mike

Menendez · 06-21-2015, 06:53 AM

I wonder if there is a business model based on encouraging sway paranoia; that sway is unusual and when present caused by poor setup, but manufacturers are savvy that sway is greatly feared and prey on that fear.

I see fellas towing large heavy boats while not using anti sway devices or even WD hitches; this makes me wonder several things: is boat towing inherently different than camper towing? Are power boat owners simply careless, ill informed and oblivious (easy to believe)? Are many camper owners paranoid, even timid, when it comes to sway? Are lots of guys simply fond of gear and buy it regardless of actual need?

What do you think?

Cumminsfan · 06-21-2015, 08:43 AM

Boat towing is totally different than TT towing. The axles on a boat trailer are almost to the rear of the trailer. They're needed there for the weight of the boats motor. The further back the axles are the less sway the trailer will have. That's why when building utility trailers they recommend a 60-40% rule minimum. The axles are set at 60% back from the trailers frame. Not the coupler but the front of the frame. This is to aide in tracking. Now add in the high walls on a TT and some side winds from either mother nature or semi's and you get all that push pull stuff.
Some TT's have their axles closer to the center which allows the manf to have a low tongue weight. That is an incentive to new buyers that have SUV's or low capacity 1/2 ton trucks. What they don't realize is that, that TT now has an inherent sway problem. The TT then needs to be loaded heavily in front of the axles to compensate for the near center axle placement. Hence the need for sway control WD products.

Cumminsfan · 06-21-2015, 09:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GOBB

Update: The SUV is set up to pull up to 8500. With my Ultra (800Lbs) or with out it sways, yes more with bike in it. There isn't much weight to move forward I have loaded what I can in the forward area or rear of the truck. I have measured the heights of the camper and hitch etc and it is within the mnf tolerance. I am thinking that the truck is at it's limit and that the wheel base may be to short.

I am thinking about 3/4 tn truck. Dodge or Ford? Gas or Diesel?

Any of the big three 3/4 ton gassers would do the trick. Save yourself the $9,000 cost of the diesel option. You really need to drive a couple to see what fits your butt and how you like the truck as a whole.