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Old 01-12-2022, 06:39 PM   #1
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To reset my WDH or not

So right now when the trailer is on the ball, my truck is almost perfectly level, with or without the WDH bars installed (800lb) and the trailer is basically level as well.

The front lifts about 7/16" of an inch but the rear drops from unloaded height quite a bit. The entire thing tows great and steers and brakes amazing as well (17k miles so far). I only use the bars for trips more than 20 odd miles. Truck is a 2500HD with 2.5" hitch rated to 1,500lb tongue weight with or without WDH.

The only reason I am asking about maybe adjusting the hitch head height and putting more load onto the bars is because I don't like lifting the tongue really high on the jack when I can't use blocks under it (like dropping it at a service center) and the jack leg gets an angle to it if there is any slope to the ground because it's nearly fully extended.

My setup is already at the bottom of the drop shank so I would need to buy another longer one and then the WDH would be forcing the back of the truck up meaning the jack does not have to extend as far to get the coupler off the ball, but that may put more load on the front end as a result. It is only lifting the front less than a 1/2" now which seems acceptable now and I am not sure how much it would be adding back to the front. Plus I'd have to run with the bars all the time so the trailer doesn't sit low.

And the headlight issue from the rear dropping, but I don't get many highbeam flashes when towing in the dark, so it can't be too bad right now. However I am looking to upgrade my lights.

Thoughts? Let it be or get a new shank and redo the setup? Attached image is basically how it rides now but the FWT at front is not full and the grey/back in rear have stuff
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Old 01-13-2022, 12:01 AM   #2
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Thinking I would get a new shank, and drop it down one notch. Not really for the shortened length on your tongue Jack, but I like having the trailer slightly nose down. Especially towing that small of a trailer with a 2500 series truck.

Like you mentioned leaving a campsite with your fresh tank empty, and waste tanks full, I like having that noticeable nose down from the start.
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Old 01-13-2022, 06:37 AM   #3
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That's a small trailer for a decent sized truck. I didn't check specs on the TT, but I suspect under 5000lbs GVWR? I probably wouldn't even use a WDH on it at all. You do know that these trucks are designed with the rear end a bit high so when they squat a bit it is fine?

I'd see how the setup looks without weight distribution bars and possibly just adjust the ball height for a level trailer.

I can't imagine you feel that trailer very much.
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Old 01-13-2022, 09:29 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kdauto View Post
That's a small trailer for a decent sized truck. I didn't check specs on the TT, but I suspect under 5000lbs GVWR? I probably wouldn't even use a WDH on it at all. You do know that these trucks are designed with the rear end a bit high so when they squat a bit it is fine?

I'd see how the setup looks without weight distribution bars and possibly just adjust the ball height for a level trailer.

I can't imagine you feel that trailer very much.
I used to tow it with a Tahoe and that needed the WDH for sure, but I needed a truck for other things and assuming I'd upgrade the trailer in a couple years, bought this DMax.

I don't even notice the trailer is back there other than the MPG change because its not a very aerodynamic design. Its under 5k dry. I know they are designed to squat some and I like how things are other than having to worry about the jack being maxed out if I can't use blocks.

I only use the WDH bars on longer trips to keep the bounce down. Without the bars, the truck looks the same with the setup I have now. I could pivot the head more and get some more load into the bars but it rides wonderful right now.
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Old 01-13-2022, 09:32 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bneukam View Post
Thinking I would get a new shank, and drop it down one notch. Not really for the shortened length on your tongue Jack, but I like having the trailer slightly nose down. Especially towing that small of a trailer with a 2500 series truck.

Like you mentioned leaving a campsite with your fresh tank empty, and waste tanks full, I like having that noticeable nose down from the start.
Something to consider, just dropping the nose a tad. There is zero sway now, even in the higher winds (though I stop when they hit 50mph and are crossing)
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Old 01-13-2022, 10:31 AM   #6
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I wouldn't use WDH with that TT. Like you say, you barely notice it. If it ain't broke then no need to fix it.
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Old 01-13-2022, 11:19 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by Cumminsfan View Post
I wouldn't use WDH with that TT. Like you say, you barely notice it. If it ain't broke then no need to fix it.
As I said I only use the bars to keep the bounce down (on crap roads). Towing is fine, its the jack I don't want to break because I have to max it out
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Old 01-13-2022, 03:14 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by TravelSolo View Post
I used to tow it with a Tahoe and that needed the WDH for sure, but I needed a truck for other things and assuming I'd upgrade the trailer in a couple years, bought this DMax.

I don't even notice the trailer is back there other than the MPG change because its not a very aerodynamic design. Its under 5k dry. I know they are designed to squat some and I like how things are other than having to worry about the jack being maxed out if I can't use blocks.

I only use the WDH bars on longer trips to keep the bounce down. Without the bars, the truck looks the same with the setup I have now. I could pivot the head more and get some more load into the bars but it rides wonderful right now.
Have you actually driven it without the WDH bars or do you just assume it will bounce? Does the bouncing feel/look like it's the trailer bobbing up and down or the truck, or both?
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Old 01-13-2022, 05:06 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TravelSolo View Post
As I said I only use the bars to keep the bounce down (on crap roads). Towing is fine, its the jack I don't want to break because I have to max it out
Are you referring to the tongue jack?

I always put several boards underneath mine so I don't have to drive it as far. Also, mine has a pin you can pull and set the pad at different heights to reduce the amount of travel required.
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Old 01-13-2022, 05:43 PM   #10
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Agree for not needing a WDH, Iíll say again nose down will smooth the trailer out.
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Old 01-13-2022, 05:50 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kdauto View Post
Have you actually driven it without the WDH bars or do you just assume it will bounce? Does the bouncing feel/look like it's the trailer bobbing up and down or the truck, or both?
Yes I have driven it over the same roads with and without the bars and can notice the difference, especially on a good bump in the road. When I feel it, I feel the rear end dropping sometimes with a touch of a push on a good bounce. With the bars I don't get that at all. It's rare and that is why I will go 15-20 miles without WDH or sway control.

Quote:
Originally Posted by carybosse View Post
Are you referring to the tongue jack?

I always put several boards underneath mine so I don't have to drive it as far. Also, mine has a pin you can pull and set the pad at different heights to reduce the amount of travel required.
At camp or for storage I always use blocks. But when I drop the trailer at a dealer or service location you can't use blocks and chocks really since they just pick up by the forklift and move the thing and any block/chock you don't get back.

Right now I need to lift the tongue so high that I can see the jack leg start to lean/bend as the trailer settles backward when I don't use a block up under it. It's a longer arm trying to hold the trailer from rolling versus a shorter one when I can use a block.

By using using a longer shank and dropping the hitch head and giving it more tilt, I can keep the tongue lower without having the back of the truck sag so much thus limiting how high I need to raise to disconnect. But that means I need to use the bars all the time to keep the nose level.

Its not often I drop the trailer without using block under the jack so maybe I will just leave it as-is.
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Old 01-14-2022, 08:49 AM   #12
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Maybe one of these would work.

https://www.fastwaytrailer.com/flip-jack-foot
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Old 01-14-2022, 04:29 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by Cumminsfan View Post
Maybe one of these would work.

https://www.fastwaytrailer.com/flip-jack-foot
I had one of those.

It does not address the issue of the tongue having to be raised really high to get off the ball. The length of the jack from foot to frame is still long and still putting a lot of leverage on the tube.

I think I am just going to leave it as-is right now
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Old 01-26-2022, 12:36 PM   #14
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Very first camping trip, I broke my jack by overextending it on a slight incline. I would adjust it if you can't use the leveling blocks when unhitching.
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