Towing issues

[KHBama]

Originally Posted by ASTMedic

As stated above are you adjusting the WDH for a level TV or have you taken unloaded measurements on the front end of your TV and tried to return the front end to that measurement when loaded? Be sure to do this with the toys loaded too.

You sound very focused on the rear end and I don't think you're confirming the front end isn't overloaded by the WD hitch. Worry more about the front measurements when setting up a WD hitch.

You say you have CAT scale numbers? Can you post those? Did you make 3 passes?

Front unloaded 39 5/8”

Front loaded 40 1/8”

Front unloaded weight 4900lbs

Front loaded weight 4820lbs

[ASTMedic]

Originally Posted by KHBama

Front unloaded 39 5/8”



Front loaded 40 1/8”



Front unloaded weight 4900lbs



Front loaded weight 4820lbs

Ok. What about the same for the back end? Not that it should be the cause

I use air bags to stiffen up the rear end on my F250 and it gives me a little rise over stock and doesn't cause issues. I just make sure to load it the same each time so the WD hitch works the same

[kdauto]

Originally Posted by KHBama

The truck is not overload. It’s under every rating including payload, confirmed by CAT scales. Just like the last sentence of my post said, towed a TT for a friend that weighs roughly 8500lbs loaded and it did the exact same thing. It is 100% not a weight issue

I am pretty sure if anyone ever gets those CAT scale slips and tire size/brand info someone can help you.Neither I nor anyone here have seen your truck and trailer setup. Heck, maybe just some pics of both rigs separate and hitched together and it'll be obvious to someone but we need info to go on.

Snap a pic of your yellow GVWR sticker in the drivers door while you're at it. I know you are 100% convinced it is not overloaded and that may be true but I always start troubleshooting fresh with proof and visual evidence.

[96Bounder1st]

The only TT similar experience I had was with a 30 ft cargo trailer that was loaded beyond limits. My son had me raise the hitch on the WDH and we snugged the bars right up. It handled exactly as you are saying. I stopped at a tire shop and lowered the head on the hitch down one hole and redid the bars, again very tight and the truck then handled like normal.
Why this made a difference is beyond me but I don’t need explanations, although it would be nice, but the results where in the handling improvement.

Hope you find the solution to your problem.

Terry

[ASTMedic]

Originally Posted by 96Bounder1st

The only TT similar experience I had was with a 30 ft cargo trailer that was loaded beyond limits. My son had me raise the hitch on the WDH and we snugged the bars right up. It handled exactly as you are saying. I stopped at a tire shop and lowered the head on the hitch down one hole and redid the bars, again very tight and the truck then handled like normal.

Why this made a difference is beyond me but I don’t need explanations, although it would be nice, but the results where in the handling improvement.



Hope you find the solution to your problem.



Terry

Sounds like it was too nice high

[KHBama]

Originally Posted by ASTMedic

Sounds like it was too nice high

Which is why I keep going back to the rear end. If the supersprings make the rear of the truck sit higher and I set the hitch 1 1/2” higher than the coupler on the trailer, am I really distributing to the weight correctly? I get the rear end back to the measurements based on the height with the springs.

[KHBama]

Originally Posted by kdauto

I am pretty sure if anyone ever gets those CAT scale slips and tire size/brand info someone can help you.Neither I nor anyone here have seen your truck and trailer setup. Heck, maybe just some pics of both rigs separate and hitched together and it'll be obvious to someone but we need info to go on.

Snap a pic of your yellow GVWR sticker in the drivers door while you're at it. I know you are 100% convinced it is not overloaded and that may be true but I always start troubleshooting fresh with proof and visual evidence.

I’m working off a computer right now, don’t have screenshots. I know what you are saying but it’s not the weight of the trailer. I towed a much lighter trailer set up “properly” at the dealership and the exact same thing happened. I have weighed loaded, unloaded, with toys, without toys and I’m under every rating. I’m very conscious of payload(even though that number is a marketing tool), axle ratings, CGWR, etc. Loaded with toys and a full fresh water tank, I’m 950+ lbs under the rear axle rating. I’m not overloaded

[ASTMedic]

Originally Posted by KHBama

Which is why I keep going back to the rear end. If the supersprings make the rear of the truck sit higher and I set the hitch 1 1/2” higher than the coupler on the trailer, am I really distributing to the weight correctly? I get the rear end back to the measurements based on the height with the springs.

But you don't want to return the rear to to stock height, just the front. The rear can squat if needed, just not excessively. You adjust the height of the hitch on the drop so that when loaded the trailer will be level or SLIGHTLY nose down. Never nose up since that's applying more weight over the rear of the trailer and causes sway. Most hitches say measure the coupler height of the trailer when level then add "X" inches based on the weight of the trailer to the measurement to allow the trailer to be level as the truck squats due to the weight. Then you adjust the angle of the head or chain tension to return the front end to as close to the stock height/weight.

I'm wondering if you're rear is too stiff to allow squat so if you're adding height to the initial height of the ball it's causing the rear of the trailer to be too heavy when the rear of the truck doesn't squat.

Have you made 1 pass at the scales or 3 with the bars on, off and then no trailer?

Edit: I saw you've been over the scales a bunch but did you do the 3 pass method?

[ASTMedic]

Originally Posted by KHBama

I’m working off a computer right now, don’t have screenshots. I know what you are saying but it’s not the weight of the trailer. I towed a much lighter trailer set up “properly” at the dealership and the exact same thing happened. I have weighed loaded, unloaded, with toys, without toys and I’m under every rating. I’m very conscious of payload(even though that number is a marketing tool), axle ratings, CGWR, etc. Loaded with toys and a full fresh water tank, I’m 950+ lbs under the rear axle rating. I’m not overloaded

It's not so much the total weights but how they are distributed to different areas of your entire rig. Sounds like you're being through but we just need to work through it, something is getting overlooked.

[KHBama]

Originally Posted by ASTMedic

But you don't want to return the rear to to stock height, just the front. The rear can squat if needed, just not excessively. You adjust the height of the hitch on the drop so that when loaded the trailer will be level or SLIGHTLY nose down. Never nose up since that's applying more weight over the rear of the trailer and causes sway. Most hitches say measure the coupler height of the trailer when level then add "X" inches based on the weight of the trailer to the measurement to allow the trailer to be level as the truck squats due to the weight. Then you adjust the angle of the head or chain tension to return the front end to as close to the stock height/weight.

I'm wondering if you're rear is too stiff to allow squat so if you're adding height to the initial height of the ball it's causing the rear of the trailer to be too heavy when the rear of the truck doesn't squat.

Have you made 1 pass at the scales or 3 with the bars on, off and then no trailer?

Edit: I saw you've been over the scales a bunch but did you do the 3 pass method?

Good info. I have not done the 3 pass method. Based on the info, I may move the hitch down a notch and adjust the bars(do not have chains, equalizer just has the 2 bars for sway and WD) and see if that helps any. The supersprings May need to come off eventually

[KHBama]

Originally Posted by ASTMedic

It's not so much the total weights but how they are distributed to different areas of your entire rig. Sounds like you're being through but we just need to work through it, something is getting overlooked.

Oh yeah, no doubt. Just letting people know that the truck is not simply overloaded

[ASTMedic]

Originally Posted by KHBama

Good info. I have not done the 3 pass method. Based on the info, I may move the hitch down a notch and adjust the bars(do not have chains, equalizer just has the 2 bars for sway and WD) and see if that helps any. The supersprings May need to come off eventually

Or they may not. You're just sprung so that you don't squat much so if you're trailer is leaning back just enough that may be making you light on your tongue weight and causing the trailer to get loose. Improving tongue weight would fix that.

Be sure when you do your 3 pass you do it loaded like you will for a trip. People, full fuel, everything, so that you're accurate.

[kdauto]

Originally Posted by KHBama

I’m working off a computer right now, don’t have screenshots. I know what you are saying but it’s not the weight of the trailer. I towed a much lighter trailer set up “properly” at the dealership and the exact same thing happened. I have weighed loaded, unloaded, with toys, without toys and I’m under every rating. I’m very conscious of payload(even though that number is a marketing tool), axle ratings, CGWR, etc. Loaded with toys and a full fresh water tank, I’m 950+ lbs under the rear axle rating. I’m not overloaded

I think ASTmedic is thinking like I do. I asked for pics and specs. If you're not overloaded, your trailer may simply be hitched wrong, like too high or light at the tongue.

We still don't know if you're running 345/30R24 tires or 245/70R17 or what. Tire size, type and pressure are real important with heavier weights. Tongue weight issues would be apparent if we saw weight tickets. One member here explained exactly how to set up before and after hitching weight setups.

[ASTMedic]

Originally Posted by kdauto

I think ASTmedic is thinking like I do. I asked for pics and specs. If you're not overloaded, your trailer may simply be hitched wrong, like too high or light at the tongue.



We still don't know if you're running 345/30R24 tires or 245/70R17 or what. Tire size, type and pressure are real important with heavier weights. Tongue weight issues would be apparent if we saw weight tickets. One member here explained exactly how to set up before and after hitching weight setups.

I don't think he's made the 3 passes yet that give use useful numbers. He's just been to the scale and taken weights