Ultimate 1/2 Ton Tundra Setup

[cdoorider]

I found the gate removing tip intriguing. First one must understand we all have different needs.

Being able to shave off 50lbs from tow vehicle sounds great to me. If I was purchasing a new truck I would go bigger but for me that's not possible until late 2019 or 2020.

Folks like me who only get two or three weeks vacation and literally only pull their trailer out two or three times a year don't care about maxing out the truck. I want to tow as large a trailer as I legally can, it's just for a couple years. My Silverado is only rated to tow 9400lbs, under some configurations thevsane truck is rated to tow over 12000lbs, with the same power train! If I can shave 50lbs here or there, I'll do it, I'm just making it legal.

I'd really love to have that sharp looking 3500 2020 Silverado right now, but reality is I have to tow two more summers with my 16 half ton. For now if I'm 7100 on truck and 7600 gross on TT, I'm legal within all specs.Wiith a pro pride p3 the above setup will tow fine and get me anywhere I wish to camp. It may take a little longer travel time but I can scoot along quite nicely at 60mph.

A few more years and my wife will join me in retirement and at that point we'll want to travel more and need a heavier truck.

So if you have to shave a few pounds here and there to make things work doesn't mean it's the wrong truck, it's just exactly the truck you need and nothing more. If you already have your big truck great, if you don't you have to work with what you've got.

[archer75]

Originally Posted by cdoorider

So if you have to shave a few pounds here and there to make things work doesn't mean it's the wrong truck, it's just exactly the truck you need and nothing more. If you already have your big truck great, if you don't you have to work with what you've got.

Oh I agree. But the OP doesn't already have a truck. He was shopping for it. He is going to buy a truck that right out of the gate he will be close to or over the limits. That's the stupid part.
And there's no way to know for certain until both truck and trailer are already purchased and on a scale. But if the numbers are bad it's already too late.

Otherwise yeah, you do what you have to make what you already have work safely. But certainly don't buy something that you know may not work for what you want to tow.

[cdoorider]

Originally Posted by archer75

Oh I agree. But the OP doesn't already have a truck. He was shopping for it. He is going to buy a truck that right out of the gate he will be close to or over the limits. That's the stupid part.
And there's no way to know for certain until both truck and trailer are already purchased and on a scale. But if the numbers are bad it's already too late.

Otherwise yeah, you do what you have to make what you already have work safely. But certainly don't buy something that you know may not work for what you want to tow.

Facepalm: [emoji16] Yeah that was stupid of me, I guess the OPs post was about purchasing the correct truck.

So heck yeah if your buying a truck, do it right the first time and buy the TT you really want.

[blueridge-fl]

I still maintain that a Tundra will do fine pulling the trailer he is interested in and all he really needs is a good WDH. Having said that, I concur that if you are buying a truck to tow an RV, you should buy at least one level above what you currently need. This is especially true if you are just starting out as a new RV owner. RVs have a way of infecting the owner, and the next thing you know, your looking to move up to a bigger, heavier unit.

[archer75]

Originally Posted by blueridge-fl

RVs have a way of infecting the owner, and the next thing you know, your looking to move up to a bigger, heavier unit.

That is so true!

[RangeMaggotBob]

Originally Posted by mrjohns2

Sorry. I feel like everyone is very jumpy on the topic and I have gotten jumpy in the other direction.

Don't be. You haven't.

[mrjohns2]

Originally Posted by cdoorider

Facepalm: [emoji16] Yeah that was stupid of me, I guess the OPs post was about purchasing the correct truck.

So heck yeah if your buying a truck, do it right the first time and buy the TT you really want.

Actually, it wasn’t at all about purchasing the right truck. The truck and trailer are already committed to. The question was what about other upgrades to do to the truck to make it the “ultimate towing Tundra”. People didn’t want to help with that question, they just wanted to criticize the givens.

[cdoorider]

Originally Posted by mrjohns2

Actually, it wasn’t at all about purchasing the right truck. The truck and trailer are already committed to. The question was what about other upgrades to do to the truck to make it the “ultimate towing Tundra”. People didn’t want to help with that question, they just wanted to criticize the givens.

Personally I think what people tow with is their business. I would hope everyone knows enough to stay safe and not endanger their family or mine.

There are plenty of things that can be done to improve towing, but nothing increases it's manufacturers ratings. Example, for my 5.3 Chevy, the Edelbrock supercharger will give me over 500 ft lbs of torque and 500 hp., they even give me a 100000 mile engine warranty. So maybe I can still only tow that 7000lb trailer, but it will sure pull it up the hills a lot easier.

[gearman]

Originally Posted by mrjohns2

Actually, it wasn’t at all about purchasing the right truck. The truck and trailer are already committed to. The question was what about other upgrades to do to the truck to make it the “ultimate towing Tundra”. People didn’t want to help with that question, they just wanted to criticize the givens.

I purchased a Tundra last summer for a new around town small truck and occasional towing of our small trailers.

Absolutely love this truck, Except it towing abilities. But that is just my opinion, for me, its just too wishy washy, but thats what makes it great when unloaded and driving aournd town for errands.

I put air bags on right away, absolutely loved them on the F350. The one thing I did with this truck vs the F350, installed onboard air compressor with wireless remote, upgraded to control pressure in each bag separately...... why did I not have this on the last truck!?!?! That is a huge benefit being able to adjust while driving down the road.

Good luck with the new rig

[VernDiesel]

Mrjohns, Some of us did answer your question it just wasn’t quite the answer you were looking for. You shouldnt need anything to comfortably tow the trailer you linked except proper WDH & proven by scales set up to know that it will tow that with stability & safely. To add to ride comfort & suspension control as well as ride height you might additionally benefit from simple air bags but larger brakes etc would mostly serve to lighten your wallet.

[mrjohns2]

Originally Posted by VernDiesel

Mrjohns, Some of us did answer your question it just wasn’t quite the answer you were looking for. You shouldnt need anything to comfortably tow the trailer you linked except proper WDH & proven by scales set up to know that it will tow that with stability & safely. To add to ride comfort & suspension control as well as ride height you might additionally benefit from simple air bags but larger brakes etc would mostly serve to lighten your wallet.

True, true. Some of the other voices were louder to me.

[Rednax]

Originally Posted by mrjohns2

True, true. Some of the other voices were louder to me.

Yeah. There’s been quite a lot of ignorance in this thread about what constitutes a good tow rig setup. Worrying over “Payload” and “Tow Rating” etc, is real 5-10 year newbie stuff.

Take the truck to the CAT Scale with driver only. Day of purchase. Fill fuel tank. Get scale ticket. This is the adjusted empty weight (TARE) and the lightest the truck will ever be.

1) With those scale numbers (per axle) what are the values?

2) What are the axle/tire ratings?

3) The range between them is how one sets up to tow a trailer with a WD hitch. The “never exceed”.

A 1000-lb TW is the province of cars and minivans. If one understands how to set WD.

But

The things not attached to the truck will make the biggest difference. If “ultimate” is wanted:

1) A Hensley-patent WDH (nothing else is comparable; does what it claims in eliminating sway)

2) TT Suspension converted to torsion axles and the addition of disc brakes (as no suspension and braking system could be worse than leaf & drum as installed).

What the truck will benefit by is a rear anti-roll bar if not so equipped.

These will shore up the drawbacks of using a pickup to tow (and, no, bigger isn’t ever “better”, dynamically it’s worse; nor are pickups “designed to tow”).

As VernDiesel has emphasized, setting the WD does the most. (With the Hensley or ProPride it won’t matter too much as anti-sway isn’t dependent on spring bar tension). FALR is your friend: Steer Axle values same whether hitched taut or solo.

WD is one-third the equation of a decent tow rig: One, bad trailer design (box shape on leafs); Two, bad TV design (pickup), so at least cover the margins better with the state of the art WD hitch. (Trailer disc brakes are an eye opener; torsion axles, discs and the Hensley design all cheap for what they do. Dirt cheap).

As to MPG, the test is against the truck solo where the only change is having parked the trailer. Still loaded with all gear and passengers. Travel same road at 60-mph as with TT. The difference will be the aerodynamic burden. Should be 40% penalty with TT.

A pickup with no IRS-applicable solo miles is nothing but compromised performance (steering, handling and braking). What keeps family safe is staying upright and lane-centered.

Fix the TT deficiencies and use best WD as a pickup needs all the help it can get.

[kayakterp]

Sorry or late reply but just saw this post.
My TT weighs 6065 lbs dry. I tend to overpack on every trip and usually carry a lot of kayaking gear & boats with me, easily another 1,000 lbs.
I originally bought a 2011 Tundra - double cab 8’ bed with 98,000 miles.
I had a mechanic look underneath and was surprised to see there were 4 leaf springs instead of 3. It also had the nice big tow mirrors (heated). E load tires, etc. I bought a Brake Controller & EQuilizer WDH with sway control.
It pulled like a dream and I loved the truck with all the accessories and roominess of the back seat.
Unfortunately some teenage girl pulled out in front me while texting and totaled the truck. I now have a F-250 and the biggest difference I noticed is the braking is MUCH better in the 3/4 ton.
As far as MPG, I did notice I got better gas mileage the slower I drove
70 mph = 7mpg
67 mph = 8 mpg
65 mph = 9 mpg...etc
10 mpg was the best I ever got but I also have a heavy foot
16 mpg was about my high unloaded and driving 65 mph. But probably averaged 13-14 unloaded with 50/50 hywy & city.
The truck was made in Canada and came with owners manual written in French. That made it hard to get info on it. Even the American Toyota Help Line couldn’t find anything
Ford is about the same MPG loaded but unloaded is much worse and is bumpy as heck.
I do feel safer with the 3/4 ton and don’t worry nearly as much going around sharp turns (exit/entrance ramps to hywy, etc)
I think your Tundra will be fine!

[CO_Native]

Originally Posted by blueridge-fl

We tow a 7000 GVWR trailer with our 2014 Tundra. All we use is an Equalizer WDH. Zero truck mods required. My Tundra has a tow rating of 10,100 and a hitch load rating of a little over 1000 lbs. It is a very comfortable tow. My advice is to get a good WDH and try towing with just that before sinking any additional money into the truck.

Totally agree. The Tundra will suck gas of course so glad you are getting the bigger tank. An excellent WDH and brake controller will help you tow great. You may want air bags down the road but this is sufficient to start. Just watch your weights and payload.