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Old 10-08-2020, 04:20 PM   #1
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Weight Distribution & Sway Control System?

Hello,

Looking for some advice on if I should install a Weight Distribution/Sway Control assembly for towing. I have a 2008 Fleetwood 34B with a Workhorse Chassis, which we are also just getting ready to install the Ultra Products ECM, Plug wires, and Iridium plugs, as well as a new exhaust. We will be towing a 24' Carson enclosed trailer with a Polaris RZR 4 seater and a kids RZR170 and a couple quads as well. Just wondering if it makes a difference with a Motorhome with it being so heavy and long versus lets say a truck towing a large trailer? I've been looking at the Curt 8-10K TruTrack Weight Distribution/Sway kit.

Thanks,

Rob
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Old 10-08-2020, 08:53 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brunson67 View Post
.... I have a 2008 Fleetwood 34B
We will be towing a 24' Carson enclosed trailer with a Polaris RZR 4 seater and a kids RZR170 and a couple quads as well. Just wondering if it makes a difference with a Motorhome with it being so heavy and long versus lets say a truck towing a large trailer?
You can maybe "get by" without a good sway-control hitch, but I wouldn't even think about it.

As a minimum I would want a high-end sway control hitch with list price around $1,000. The Curt you mentioned is better than nothing, but not as good at some others that cost a bit more.

I tow my cargo trailer with a Reese Strait-Line trunnion bar hitch. Similar performance is available with a Blue Ox SwayPro or an Equal-I-Zer 4P. I would want at least one of those three for your trailer behind the motorhome.

I tow my travel trailer with a Hensley ProPride. Those cost three or four times more than one of the three noted above. But if you've ever experienced uncontrollable trailer sway, you'll pay lot to be sure it never happens again.

You mentioned "sway bars". Sway bars indicates a cheap hitch that's not nearly good enough to prevent uncontrollable trailer sway under severe sway-causing conditions. You want built-in sway control. The Curt TruTrack you mentioned has built-in sway control and does not use sway bars. The bars you are calling sway bars are actually spring bars, which almost all weight-distributing hitches use for weight distribution. Even my ProPride has spring bars.

The 24' cargo trailer will probably have loaded hitch weight (TW) more than 800 pounds when loaded for a trip. So you should move up a notch to a hitch rated for at least 1,000 pounds TW. Or better yet, your hitch should be rated for TW of at least 13% of the GVWR of the trailer
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Old 10-09-2020, 10:38 AM   #3
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Hello SmokeyWren,

This is exactly what I was hoping for, some solid good advice and information. Thank you!

So I went to the Reese Website and still am confused, there is Weight Distribution Trunnion Bar Kits and Weight Distribution kits with Sway Control. My hitch was modified by the previous owner, he had it gusseted up inside and tied to the frame with welded in heavy wall box tubing. I definitely need to get a system and do not want to tow this trailer without one, but need to determine what exactly I need so I can order it before our first trip.
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Old 10-10-2020, 10:05 AM   #4
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I use a 10,000 lb Reese weight distributing round bar hitch, with Reese sway control to tow our 4000 lb R-Vision 21', behind our Chevy Tahoe... never had any issues with sway problems, and our tow vehicle is much heavier than the loaded trailer. Never tow anything that is heavier than your tow vehicle. Also get the proper hitch and brake control system to match your trailer and vehicle... word to the wise is NEVER modify a hitch system thinking it will provide more strength or capacity... unless of course you know more than the engineers that design and build them. Happy camping!








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Old 10-10-2020, 10:16 AM   #5
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Never tow anything that is heavier than your tow vehicle.
This is good advice, and a simple rule of thumb to follow when considering the purchase of a travel trailer or tow vehicle.
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Old 10-11-2020, 02:39 PM   #6
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Never towing anything heavier than your tow vehicle sounds great, but it is completely unrealistic! Now with a 34' motor home, yes, do not tow anything heavier than that road pig, but with most 3/4-1 ton pickups, ridiculous.
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Old 10-15-2020, 10:22 PM   #7
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The Blue Ox Sway Pro is a good hitch, and along with the clamp on chain brackets, they sell bolt/weld on chain brackets. I bought mine used (once or twice, no more) and the seller gave me a set of new bolt/weld on chain brackets in addition to the clamp on ones.

https://www.blueox.com/hitch-accesso...otating-latch/

Charles
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Old 10-17-2020, 08:54 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by brunson67 View Post
Hello,

Looking for some advice on if I should install a Weight Distribution/Sway Control assembly for towing. I have a 2008 Fleetwood 34B with a Workhorse Chassis, which we are also just getting ready to install the Ultra Products ECM, Plug wires, and Iridium plugs, as well as a new exhaust. We will be towing a 24' Carson enclosed trailer with a Polaris RZR 4 seater and a kids RZR170 and a couple quads as well. Just wondering if it makes a difference with a Motorhome with it being so heavy and long versus lets say a truck towing a large trailer? I've been looking at the Curt 8-10K TruTrack Weight Distribution/Sway kit.

Thanks,

Rob
SmokeyWren nailed it. Can't add anything of value beyond that.
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Old 10-17-2020, 09:14 PM   #9
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I don't know if I missed it, but don't forget an electric brake controller for the carson
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Old 10-18-2020, 09:59 AM   #10
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The bars you are calling sway bars are actually spring bars, which almost all weight-distributing hitches use for weight distribution.
I have noticed that some manufacturers claim their WDH torsion bar systems have sway control, and I think what that's based on is as the trailer turns the chains on each side will move in opposite directions, and will want to push the trailer back to center. The thing is though, like suspension springs you need a damper of some sort. For suspensions that damper is called a shock absorber.

That said, I don't think it's true every trailer needs sway control. I've been taking a wait and see approach with my 20' tandem axel trailer. It seems to do well without. If something like a dip or a gust pushes the trailer out it quickly returns to center. I am concerned though about gusty side winds, something I've only dealt with at about the 20 mph range so far.

If I do add sway control it will probably be the Andersen hitch, and half of that will be to be able to do away with grease! Messy stuff. I'm not convinced though that the chain WDH systems are as good as torsion bars.
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Old 10-18-2020, 11:07 AM   #11
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Brunson,

On our last mh, 2003 Bounder 35e, we were in the same boat.
A 22 Sport Trailer, side by side, etc.

We started with having the local hitch fab shop rework our hitch for the extra weight.
Then we used a Reese WDS, the type use the friction pad for sway control, not the chain type.
This worked pretty well, used the rear my jacks to lift the mh to get the bars on their pads then hit the hwy.

I will tell you this, we used the trailer for one trip without the wds, even with the heavy mh, it would wag the dog pretty good.
To me, the wds is absolutely needed.

We used that set up for about 13 years, no problem with the coach or anything else. Just remember to take your time on the road.
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Old 10-19-2020, 09:27 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by CARS View Post
I use a 10,000 lb Reese weight distributing round bar hitch, with Reese sway control to tow our 4000 lb R-Vision 21', behind our Chevy Tahoe... never had any issues with sway problems, and our tow vehicle is much heavier than the loaded trailer. Never tow anything that is heavier than your tow vehicle. Also get the proper hitch and brake control system to match your trailer and vehicle... word to the wise is NEVER modify a hitch system thinking it will provide more strength or capacity... unless of course you know more than the engineers that design and build them. Happy camping!

Ron & Lucy
Why? That WDH is not the right WDH for your trailer. You need a 3000-4000, not a 10k.
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