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Old 09-28-2021, 10:20 AM   #57
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Originally Posted by jjackrash View Post
I am not sure I buy this and I think it might depend on a milage comparison. I have seen diesels with 200k on them still command pretty good prices. But I would defer to actual data as I don't have any, other than my small-sample anecdotal observation that over the years my used diesels also seem to hold their value really well when I trade them compared to other types of vehicles.
Re-read my whole statement, not just what you quoted. Gas versus diesel is a wash at resale time.
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Old 09-28-2021, 10:31 AM   #58
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Originally Posted by 77Travco View Post
Re-read my whole statement, not just what you quoted. Gas versus diesel is a wash at resale time.
I read your whole post and indicated I was not convinced it is a wash without some data to back it up. I believe based on personal experience that the gas trucks depreciate faster, but, again, I don't have data to back up my perception either.
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Old 09-28-2021, 12:43 PM   #59
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Originally Posted by jjackrash View Post
I read your whole post and indicated I was not convinced it is a wash without some data to back it up. I believe based on personal experience that the gas trucks depreciate faster, but, again, I don't have data to back up my perception either.
Here's one of a zillion examples that you can find... red=diesel / silver=gasser. Do some price comparisons at same trim levels and mileages and you will see what I mean.
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Old 09-28-2021, 02:24 PM   #60
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Originally Posted by 77Travco View Post
Here's one of a zillion examples that you can find... red=diesel / silver=gasser. Do some price comparisons at same trim levels and mileages and you will see what I mean.
That was a good data-point example. Thanks. That does look like similar depreciation.
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Old 09-28-2021, 02:41 PM   #61
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It may be location dependent. In North Alabama, diesels are averaging 10k above the price of a gas burner equivalent.
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Old 09-28-2021, 03:38 PM   #62
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Well, 9-10k is about the up-front-up charge on the diesels.
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Old 09-30-2021, 09:00 AM   #63
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Originally Posted by PLDieter View Post
Nothing finer than a Toyota Tundra with a factory tow package. Towing capacity is 10,500 pounds, and Consumer Reports shows it as FAR better in all categories, durability, cost of repairs, customer satisfaction, ease of driving, quality of ride, sustaining resale value - ALL of it. Mine is a 2008, and it still feels new, floats us over the mountains pulling the max weight.
And what's your payload on the yellow sticker on the door frame? 1,400 lbs?

"Tow capacity" is pretty much a meaningless number.

Payload, GCWR and GAWR are the numbers to pay attention to, all of which a Tundra is light in.

There's no way I'd recommend a Tundra for the trailer the OP is purchasing. Just the loaded tongue weight and hitch weight would take up the entire available payload of a Tundra.......

Quite honestly, I'm a Toyota fan and own a few and a Tundra would be the last truck I'd recommend for that size trailer .
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Old 10-01-2021, 10:32 AM   #64
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Originally Posted by Persistent View Post
...tongue weights of trailers are often much higher than the published weights. Get it weighed.
.
Agreed!
.
Weigh each axle, then weigh each axle-end.
Weigh the whole darn shootin' match, then weigh the tow-vehicle.
Tug the trailer onto the scale, unhitch, and weigh the trailer stand-alone.
.
Although the total weight on both axles plus the hitch may be within the trailer GVWR, determining the tonnage on each axle end might reveal an 'out of center-of-mass' potential problem.
.
One issue with a bumper-pull trailer -- everything behind the rear-axle of the tow-vehicle is constantly pushing the tow-vehicle 'slideways'.
Fortunately, a tow-vehicle with good tires on dry-pavement in a straight-away *usually* manages to *generally* control all that trailer mass outside the tow-vehicle center-of-mass.
.
Then... add centrifugal force during turns.
Then... add a curving road with multiple 'S' curves.
Then... add rain, wet leaves, snow, an unanticipated gravel patch of ball-bearings.
Then... add a tired or inexperienced operator.
.
Then... add, irregardless of engineering, a poorly-loaded trailer.
.
I am biased toward a fifth-wheel hitch on a MediumDutyTruck.
This is the result of decades of full-time live-aboard in a vast variety of busses, fifth-wheel RecreationVehicles, and our current rig, an ExpeditionVehicle we converted from a commercial truck.
.
Another instigator leading us away from a Class 3 pick-up truck (aka '3500', '350') to a stouter Class 7-8 vehicle (aka '8000') with massively over-built hitches?
The two years / hundred thousand miles we delivered RecreationVehicles manufacturer-to-dealer and dealer-to-shows.
.
Shoppers looking at any RecreationVehicle tend to notice price, the asking price, the sticker price, comparable sales prices on KellyBlueBook and NADA.
Astute manufacturers realize this, and adjust their components to stay in the general pricing range of similar rigs.
.
Safety and reliability are often an after-thought for manufacturers, a 'distant second' to keeping within the budget of the 'every-person' shopper.
This is the reality of a competitive market.
.
The best-built, most-reliable, longest-lived, never-quit rig tends to be the machine you build at home based on your needs, your experience.
As any fabricator or convertor knows, that one-off custom 'best- most- longest- never-' vehicle cannot be economically duplicated to sell in a market dominated by less-expensive mass-production irregardless of safety or reliability.
Buyers are interested in price.
.
I know I am.
.
PS:
Weigh it.
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Old 10-01-2021, 01:07 PM   #65
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Originally Posted by 01tundra View Post
And what's your payload on the yellow sticker on the door frame? 1,400 lbs?

"Tow capacity" is pretty much a meaningless number.

Payload, GCWR and GAWR are the numbers to pay attention to, all of which a Tundra is light in.

There's no way I'd recommend a Tundra for the trailer the OP is purchasing. Just the loaded tongue weight and hitch weight would take up the entire available payload of a Tundra.......

Quite honestly, I'm a Toyota fan and own a few and a Tundra would be the last truck I'd recommend for that size trailer .
You are well within your limits with aTundra, way better than a f150. 3/4 is over kill for that weight, now if you think you will upgrade your tt in the future just go for a 1 ton. 3/4 tons are a waste of time. They max out fast also.

I just watched an F150 get pushed all over the road wagging its tail swore he was gonna crash, never had a problem like that With the Tundra. The new Ford F-150 is too light and gets pushed around. I have seven years Toyota tundra within its weight limit and I’ve never had an issue breaking accelerating etc.
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Old 10-01-2021, 06:01 PM   #66
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Originally Posted by KaseyinTX View Post
Hello everyone, I'm new!

My husband and I recently purchased a 2019 Forest River Wildwood FSX toy hauler. The flooorplan is 280RT. Now we need a truck! Of course every dealer just goes by weight and pretty much guarantees that anything on their lot can pull it. The gentleman we purchased it from used a 1500 Silverado and said he never had an issue. Granted, he never went farther than three hours from home and South Texas is fairly flat.

I would really like to hear what all of the experts here suggest. The last thing we want to do is spend money on a tow vehicle that isn't going to work well.

Additional info: Most of the time it will just be the two of us. My husband will bring his Harley along most trips. We are not in a huge hurry since I am an assistant principal and won't be able to travel until the summer. Thank you!

Specs:
length: 32 ft
dry weight: 5608 lbs
payload capacity: 2152 lbs
GVWR: 7773 lbs
Hitch weight: 760 lbs
Most late model half ton PU's will tow 10K lbs, so wouldn't give it a second thought with the optional tow package installed, even is I had to install a tranny oil cooler as well. A larger truck will just decrease the enjoyment when using it as a dinghy which will be for a lot. In fact I wouldn't hesitate to pull it with my 03 150 Super Crew, which I would consider a must as well. Having four full doors that is.
Even if I had to pull at 25mph in low for some mountain passes, it wouldn't be for that many, so......... Oh and for making sure of the trailer's braking system for the downhill runs. Also you most surely are aware for the importance of an equalizing hitch system.
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Old 10-02-2021, 08:05 AM   #67
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I just watched an F150 get pushed all over the road wagging its tail swore he was gonna crash, never had a problem like that With the Tundra.
Wig-wags are generally a trailer-loading, tongue-weight problem, not a truck-brand problem.
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Old 10-03-2021, 07:22 AM   #68
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I would change "generally" to almost always

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Originally Posted by jjackrash View Post
Wig-wags are generally a trailer-loading, tongue-weight problem, not a truck-brand problem.
Add to that, Ford builds a F150 for every user. The difference between a base 150 to a Super Duty Chassis is greater than the difference between the SD150 and a 250.

The argument between Asian V. US pickups is no different than the GM-Ford-Dodge argument. At the end of the day, you get what you pay for.

Our next pickup will be a F150 Hybrid, the current is a Titan XD and the 1Ton is a GMC. They all do the job they were built to do.
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Old 10-03-2021, 08:32 AM   #69
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Most late model half ton PU's will tow 10K lbs, so wouldn't give it a second thought with the optional tow package installed, even is I had to install a tranny oil cooler as well. A larger truck will just decrease the enjoyment when using it as a dinghy which will be for a lot. In fact I wouldn't hesitate to pull it with my 03 150 Super Crew, which I would consider a must as well. Having four full doors that is.
Even if I had to pull at 25mph in low for some mountain passes, it wouldn't be for that many, so......... Oh and for making sure of the trailer's braking system for the downhill runs. Also you most surely are aware for the importance of an equalizing hitch system.
I disagree with a lot of this, even though I tow with my F-150. You'll run out of payload way before you ever get to that 10k. Also the statement about "making sure your trailer brakes are ready for the downhill runs". Is bloody scary. You should NEVER be relying on your truck brakes or trailer brakes on "down hill runs". Engine braking and manually downshifting to lower gears so that the engine and transmission are what is holding your speed in check are the only safe way to descend. That way you have ALL your braking power available should you ever need it.

Posted earlier, we live out west with mountain passes in every direction and pretty much see, smell people inexperienced in mountain driving riding their brakes ALL the way down our long 12-13 mile mountain pass. No way any of these people would have adequate braking left, should they really need it by the time they get to the valley.
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Old 10-03-2021, 08:37 AM   #70
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Originally Posted by Dcarver94 View Post
You are well within your limits with aTundra, way better than a f150. 3/4 is over kill for that weight, now if you think you will upgrade your tt in the future just go for a 1 ton. 3/4 tons are a waste of time. They max out fast also.

I just watched an F150 get pushed all over the road wagging its tail swore he was gonna crash, never had a problem like that With the Tundra. The new Ford F-150 is too light and gets pushed around. I have seven years Toyota tundra within its weight limit and I’ve never had an issue breaking accelerating etc.
And during your observation, did you notice if he had a equalizing hitch properly installed? As for Fords, there's more of them on the road than for anything else and for doing most of America's towing as well.
As for overkilling with a 1 ton truck, it's also very inconvenient for the majority of everyday use.
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