Which hooking mechanism is this?

[frizfreleng]

New to me 2016 F-250 6.7L. Need an assist in identifying the hitch that went in the bed. Dealer could only say "gooseneck" . The 1st photo is of the bed. The larger center circular hole has nothing in it. It does look like a ball went there. The first set of four holes around the larger circular hole are drilled through the mounting frame under the bed.

In my 2004 F-250 I have an EZ Lift retractable ball. Doesn't look anything like this one. Not even sure if it was a gooseneck at this point.

The second photo is the mounting frame for whatever was attached above. There is not any mechanism for a retractable ball. Everything looks static.

The 3rd photo is of a pad which sits between the mounting frame and the underneath of the bed. The numbers on it are interesting. One starts with FOMOCO. Have not googled the numbers as of yet - next.

The fourth photo is of a number cast onto the mounting frame. May just be a casting number.

Any help appreciated. Obviously I am stoked about my new toy.

Thanks, Friz

[Rhagfo]

Well seeing the FOMOCO on the casting in the last picture I would hazard a guess it is the factory puck system.

[tuffr2]

That looks a lot my F-450 Factory Puck system. I had a Reese Elite 5th wheel that fit into the 4 pucks (not the center which is for a gooseneck ball). Then they would twist and lock into place.

From the looks of this one - my guess was a gooseneck ball with the two chain connections. The chain connections fit in the same two of the four pucks that the Reese Elite hitch fit into.

[tuffr2]

Here is a Google image of the Ford Factory puck system using a goose ball with two chain connectors. This is what your truck had, I believe. You can use a gooseneck ball system or a standard reese or curt puck system 5th wheel hitch.

[frizfreleng]

I believe you nailed it Tuffr2. Thanks! Found the MSRP window sticker and it is listed on it. I agree, it looks like the PO was using a gooseneck and kept the ball and hooks. Wonder why he was using the rear hook holes and not the front. Maybe he needed the room for equipment.

[JDT]

Looks like he kept the plastic filler plugs also. Might want to see if some are available to help keep the crud out of the holes.

The center hole is for a gooseneck ball for a trailer with a gooseneck type hitch, the outer four are for hitches designed to fit in the Ford puck system. You can also buy adapter plates that attach to the outside holes. This will convert the system to standard rails. Lots of hitches available that use the rail system. You can also get a hitch that uses the gooseneck attachment as an anchor. My apologies if you already know this but just adding some detail.

[tuffr2]

It is interesting he was using the back two chain connections. Maybe chains were too long or they where easier to connect. The trailer is sitting over the front two and it is clumsy to connect the chain. Using the back two might have been easier.

[frizfreleng]

Originally Posted by tuffr2

It is interesting he was using the back two chain connections. Maybe chains were too long or they where easier to connect. The trailer is sitting over the front two and it is clumsy to connect the chain. Using the back two might have been easier.

I can see why he kept the ball and hooks. Cheapest set I found is around $150. My 5th wheel has a gooseneck adapter. My 2004 F-250 has a retractable ball. Lucky that I found a truck with that setup installed and from the factory to boot.

[tuffr2]

Agree, if you were not looking specifically for a truck with the 5th wheel prep package you are very lucky to find one on a F-250. That factory 5th wheel prep package is not common on a F-250. Typically a lot more common on F-350 and the dually trucks.

My F-250 does not have the factory prep package. I priced having rails and a goose neck ball added at my local hitch shop. It was $800 for the rails and $1200 for a B&W turn over ball set-up installed. The 5th wheel prep package from the factory which includes 5 connection points like in your truck cost $500 as an option.

Oh - I can save $350 if I do the install myself but I am very squeamish about cutting holes in the bed of my truck.

Or just find a travel trailer I like. Or look for a different truck with the 5th wheel prep package already installed.

[Jshopes81]

Originally Posted by frizfreleng

I believe you nailed it Tuffr2. Thanks! Found the MSRP window sticker and it is listed on it. I agree, it looks like the PO was using a gooseneck and kept the ball and hooks. Wonder why he was using the rear hook holes and not the front. Maybe he needed the room for equipment.

All we ever use are the rear hook holes. Most of our trailers dont have long enough chains to reach the front. Its early in my day yet so i may not be fully understanding the question.

[tuffr2]

Here is a pic of a truck (Nissan Titan XD) with factory installed Gooseneck Prep. It only comes with two back chain connectors.

I am taking the picture from the tailgate.

[Jshopes81]

Originally Posted by tuffr2

Here is a pic of a truck (Nissan Titan XD) with factory installed Gooseneck Prep. It only comes with two back chain connectors.

I am taking the picture from the tailgate.Attachment 310544

It only makes sense to me, the chains are always on the tailgate side of the gooseneck somethere. Try and make a hard turn with a slightly too short chain on the front mounting points and youll be in trouble! Ive seen quite a few guys make chain loops on the eyes because alot of our hooks are too big for the eyes, and, if the chain loops are laying to the back it makes connecting a little easier where you dont have to lay in the bed to hook them.

[tuffr2]

Here is a hooking system that I saw at the Daytona Nissan on a used Ram 3500 diesel that I am not sure I would trust. Looks hokey to me.

If I saw the right truck with the 5th wheel prep package I might jump on it. So I am looking in most used truck beds to see what I see.

To the left is the back of the truck.

[MtCamper]

Tuffr2, I've put the B&W turnover system in 2 Chevys and 1 Dodge. Really easy. The hard part is checking your measurements 10 times before you drill the hole. I used a 4 1/8 hole saw as how I recall. All of em fit. I found it easier to drop the spare to get a bit more room to slide the parts in.