Why me having problems with GM products

[spock12]

I change my oil and I’m very careful on filling the oil back up. I put in 2 gallons and a quart and crank up the engine, then I slowly add more oil to get the right amount in. I also check the engine oil when the engine is cold. I brought the truck home on Friday and checked the oil Saturday morning and somehow too much oil was in the engine. I keep the oil level in middle of the thatch on the dipstick, the dealership when changing the injectors could have added more oil. I wanted to drive my truck home as I drove the truck to the dealership with a cracked nut but I was told it was unsafe to drive the truck. I wanted this to be my last truck and while I don’t believe it but wife says I’m 78 even though I think I’m 25. I’ll have the truck paid April fools day next year. I would like to visit Alaska next year pulling my fifth wheel.

[kdauto]

Originally Posted by spock12

I change my oil and I’m very careful on filling the oil back up. I put in 2 gallons and a quart and crank up the engine, then I slowly add more oil to get the right amount in. I also check the engine oil when the engine is cold. I brought the truck home on Friday and checked the oil Saturday morning and somehow too much oil was in the engine. I keep the oil level in middle of the thatch on the dipstick, the dealership when changing the injectors could have added more oil. I wanted to drive my truck home as I drove the truck to the dealership with a cracked nut but I was told it was unsafe to drive the truck. I wanted this to be my last truck and while I don’t believe it but wife says I’m 78 even though I think I’m 25. I’ll have the truck paid April fools day next year. I would like to visit Alaska next year pulling my fifth wheel.

Not sure on the newer Dmax, but on the old ones I ALWAYS performed a LOF when doing injectors. Just way too much junk can get in the crankcase. It should be on the R.O. though.

[kdauto]

Originally Posted by spock12

I change my oil and I’m very careful on filling the oil back up. I put in 2 gallons and a quart and crank up the engine, then I slowly add more oil to get the right amount in. I also check the engine oil when the engine is cold. I brought the truck home on Friday and checked the oil Saturday morning and somehow too much oil was in the engine. I keep the oil level in middle of the thatch on the dipstick, the dealership when changing the injectors could have added more oil. I wanted to drive my truck home as I drove the truck to the dealership with a cracked nut but I was told it was unsafe to drive the truck. I wanted this to be my last truck and while I don’t believe it but wife says I’m 78 even though I think I’m 25. I’ll have the truck paid April fools day next year. I would like to visit Alaska next year pulling my fifth wheel.

BTW, if I was doing a major job and did not change the oil, it would be topped up to the maximum level, not in between low and full. While it's OK to have it in the hatch marks, the ideal level is the full mark.

[spock12]

Originally Posted by kdauto

BTW, if I was doing a major job and did not change the oil, it would be topped up to the maximum level, not in between low and full. While it's OK to have it in the hatch marks, the ideal level is the full mark.

It’s not what the manual says. I have never filled the oil up to the top of the thatch on the dipstick. It probably won’t be long until GM stops putting an oil dipstick in. They already do the transmission that way. I change my oil and oil filter plus the fuel filter. Plus I normally pump fuel from my auxiliary tank and I have a filter on that tank so my fuel is filtered twice

[harleyjt]

Originally Posted by kdauto

I am a mechanic but I am no expert on modern diesels. I see no reason for repeated injector issues, but if it does repeat I'd be investigating fuel supply and quality. Not sure what type of injector issues you're having, if it's electrical or sticking nozzles or poor spray pattern. Most issues i'd see where caused from contaminated or poor fuel. Mostly I'd see guys filling off old farm tanks that had rust and/or algae in it. I'd install a CAT dual filtration setup once I rebuilt the injectors and be done with it.

Agree. Not specifically Chevy, but what I have seen in other current diesels is fuel quality issues. Once you contaminate the fuel system and fail a set of injectors, the ENTIRE fuel system needs to be cleaned or replaced with new parts. I do mean entire system. Tank, lines, injectors, pump, etc etc. Anything and everything that fuel has been in contact with. if this is not done the injector failures will certainly continue. If you’re lucky, it won’t crater the engine. I always found those trucks with an auxiliary tank in the bed were full of debris. An add-on auxiliary tank is the kiss of death in any current diesel in my opinion.

[spock12]

Originally Posted by harleyjt

Agree. Not specifically Chevy, but what I have seen in other current diesels is fuel quality issues. Once you contaminate the fuel system and fail a set of injectors, the ENTIRE fuel system needs to be cleaned or replaced with new parts. I do mean entire system. Tank, lines, injectors, pump, etc etc. Anything and everything that fuel has been in contact with. if this is not done the injector failures will certainly continue. If you’re lucky, it won’t crater the engine. I always found those trucks with an auxiliary tank in the bed were full of debris. An add-on auxiliary tank is the kiss of death in any current diesel in my opinion.

I have a transfer flow auxiliary tank, 109 gallon tank. I had 2 filters on the tank but I couldn’t stop a small leak and I took 1 filter off. The last diesel came from Bucess in Sevierville TN. Next diesel was from Murphy in Myrtle Beach SC. At home I normally buy diesel from Walmart or Murphy. My auxiliary tank can’t have rust in the tank. I had a homemade steel tank on my 2020 Silverado diesel but I kept 2 filters on it. Before that truck I had a 2012 Silverado diesel that had the homemade tank and in a 186,000 miles I had no problem with injectors, the problem I had with it was the def tank but deleting the emissions took care of that. It was an extended cab truck and 2 great granddaughter’s took care of that truck, no place to sit. I take good care of my truck as it takes care of me. We take a lot of trips with our Cedar Creek. GMC spent a lot of money on replacing 8 injectors and I don’t think it’s over. I wonder what a new engine costs. I’ll have to google that and find out.

[propchef]

Originally Posted by spock12

It’s not what the manual says. I have never filled the oil up to the top of the thatch on the dipstick. It probably won’t be long until GM stops putting an oil dipstick in. They already do the transmission that way. I change my oil and oil filter plus the fuel filter. Plus I normally pump fuel from my auxiliary tank and I have a filter on that tank so my fuel is filtered twice

BMW did away with dipsticks years ago to the great displeasure of BMW fans. The good side of this is that oil changes are now “condition” based, depending on how hard (or not) the vehicle is driven. I think you’ll see more of this moving forward.

[tuffr2]

Lol - BMW driven hard or 'Not'. There is a reason BMW drivers are hated as they always drive their cars hard. Don't get in their way.

[kdauto]

Originally Posted by propchef

BMW did away with dipsticks years ago to the great displeasure of BMW fans. The good side of this is that oil changes are now “condition” based, depending on how hard (or not) the vehicle is driven. I think you’ll see more of this moving forward.

The reason BMW and others did away with dipsticks is that incorrect oil was used the majority of the time, and most people do not have the skill to check oil level properly anymore.

BMW oil specs are pretty specific, and the oil required isn't available at your local gas station, convenience store or even most chain stores or auto parts houses. They did that because this was costing them $$$$ claims.

Condition based is nothing sppecial nor new. They had this on BMW when I started there in 1985. I'm sure their algorithms have gotten better, but GM,Ford and most makes with oil life indicators now work the same way. They don't use a sensor to test the oil quality.

[propchef]

Originally Posted by kdauto

The reason BMW and others did away with dipsticks is that incorrect oil was used the majority of the time, and most people do not have the skill to check oil level properly anymore.

BMW oil specs are pretty specific, and the oil required isn't available at your local gas station, convenience store or even most chain stores or auto parts houses. They did that because this was costing them $$$$ claims.

Condition based is nothing sppecial nor new. They had this on BMW when I started there in 1985. I'm sure their algorithms have gotten better, but GM,Ford and most makes with oil life indicators now work the same way. They don't use a sensor to test the oil quality.

Thanks, great info.

Other than my ‘98 M3, we’ve always taken ours to the dealer for service so hopefully the correct oil was/is used.

[Dave Pelletier]

Originally Posted by kdauto

BTW, if I was doing a major job and did not change the oil, it would be topped up to the maximum level, not in between low and full. While it's OK to have it in the hatch marks, the ideal level is the full mark.

absolutely


Dave

[Sbad0cko]

Originally Posted by tuffr2

The factory hitch is a 20,000/2,000 lb weight carrying hitch. My 2017 Ford only has a 15,000/1,500 weight carrying hitch. I do not know what the new Ford's have.

F250 22000/2200 lb
F350 (SRW) 25000/2500 lb

[tuffr2]

I figured Ford would up the capacity of the hitches. That is impressive being about to carry that much weight in the hitch.