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Old 09-25-2020, 08:35 PM   #1
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2001 Bantam 19- wheel bearing replacements

I bought this hybrid TT about two months ago. As I don't have any maintenance history from the previous owner, I'd like to repack the wheel bearings (dual axle) as to avoid any hassles while towing the rig. I'd like to know the inner/outer bearing sizes/part #, as well as the seals that I need to service it. Hopefully someone can chime in with the info. I thank you in advance! Happy camping!
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Old 09-25-2020, 08:44 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gotPilot View Post
I bought this hybrid TT about two months ago. As I don't have any maintenance history from the previous owner, I'd like to repack the wheel bearings (dual axle) as to avoid any hassles while towing the rig. I'd like to know the inner/outer bearing sizes/part #, as well as the seals that I need to service it. Hopefully someone can chime in with the info. I thank you in advance! Happy camping!
Ok first welcome to the forum. You can find out who made the axles and ask what bearings they used. Or as you are pulling the bearings out to repack you should be able to get the part numbers off the berrings.
Let us know what you find.
Bill
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Old 09-26-2020, 07:11 PM   #3
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Depending on how simple the axle is, you may not need new seals and bearings. Just buy some axle grease, open ‘er up and have at it. The more grease the merrier. Just bring LOTS of paper towels to the party!
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Old 09-30-2020, 11:15 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by WILDEBILL308 View Post
Ok first welcome to the forum. You can find out who made the axles and ask what bearings they used. Or as you are pulling the bearings out to repack you should be able to get the part numbers off the berrings.
Let us know what you find.
Bill

Thanks Bill! I found the tag. The mfr was AL-KO. I am still waiting for their call regarding my inquiry on the replacement parts info.
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Old 09-30-2020, 11:28 PM   #5
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Depending on how simple the axle is, you may not need new seals and bearings. Just buy some axle grease, open ‘er up and have at it. The more grease the merrier. Just bring LOTS of paper towels to the party!

Hahaha! I've done it before with my boat trailer. Yep, very messy.
As I don't want to tear it apart as yet to look for part numbers, I followed your advice. But there is no grease/zerk fitting on the spindle! I'm hoping to dig and find my box of fittings to see if I could fit one there to push out the old grease when pumping new grease. There's a hole but I'm unsure if it's threaded. Anyway, the end of the spindle has a lot of grease still. Looks like it's red grease? No visible water. The hub spins freely, no grinding noise, and there's no play.
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Old 10-01-2020, 06:46 PM   #6
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I have found a tool like this one makes the process much simpler and you get a uniform "pack"
https://jmcautomotiveequipment.com/l...All%20Products
Bill
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Old 10-11-2020, 09:09 AM   #7
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The easiest and most effective way I found to repack working hubs (if there is no existing greasing point) is to install a grease fitting on the dust cap and pump it full with wheel bearing grease till the new stuff flows out the back seal. Tip... pump it in slowly or you'll blow out the seal... No need to remove the hubs unless you are inspecting or actually replacing bad/worn bearings or seals. When you pull off the dust cap, it's a good time to check the condition of the cotter pin securing the castle nut, and adjust if necessary. I only do this if I "know for sure" the bearings and seals are in good condition, or have just been replaced. In your case you may need to plug the existing holes in the hubs while you're pumping. If the existing holes in your hubs are threaded, and you can find the correct size "zirc" fitting, then use those instead of making holes in your dust caps. This is a much cleaner way to repack only if you know for sure the bearings and seals are all good. I find the "sticky" LMX Red Grease really lasts, and keeps water out (water is a bearings enemy). Alternately I can recommend L-427 SUPER BLU® GREASE - Kendall Motor Oil... great stuff if you can get it.


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