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Old 07-10-2020, 01:55 AM   #1
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2005 C19 Trail Lite Trail Cruiser floor replacement

In the process of replacing the floor in my hybrid tt. I may have waited too long and now have to completely remove and replace it. Except for the floor under the refrigerator and storage cabinets, I have 12 ft taken up from the front all the way back to the bathroom so far. Thereís always been a smell from the time I bought it 4 years ago and now I know why. Iím very surprised at how slight these trailers are made. No cross members. Walls are supported on Inch and a half aluminum square ďpipeď on the 4 corners and around wheel wells only and has begun to sag.
I have some ideas on how to support the walls but any suggestions would be great. Iím thinking about bolting or welding some support brackets onto the chassis that will extend out and under the aluminum pipe under the wall. Not sure what to do about the floor support in front of the fridge. Pictures to follow.
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Old 07-10-2020, 09:32 PM   #2
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Here are some pics of what I’m facing and my planned fix.
Using PT 2x6 for floor stringers which will be screwed down to the chassis and attached to the side walls with 1/8” steel plating that is 4” wide and go under the square aluminum casing that the wall is resting on. Plating will be screwed to the 2x6 and the aluminum casing.
Wall has dropped on the left side and will be jacked up into original position and supported by the heavy duty angle iron (shown in the last pic) and welded to the chassis. These supports will be under the 1/8” plating to distribute the load over a wider area. I have one wall support “bracket” already welded into place behind the tires where wall has sagged (pic 4)and is working as hoped. Everything will be sealed with clear silicone before putting into place.
And that’s where I am as of today. Hoping to finish welding the other 3 supports into place tomorrow or Monday and then start at the floor.
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Old 07-14-2020, 03:06 PM   #3
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That has always been my concern. What holds the walls in place? I have seen many people do various floor repairs, but I don't think I have seen how it would help keep the wall in place. I will be doing a floor repair soon since I discovered a leak that has gotten into the floor. The leak has been fixed, and I'm only going to have to do about a 5 foot square near the right front of my trailer. I haven't noticed anything sagging on mine, but have wondered how the floor attaches to the wall. If it does? I like how you have a game plan as to lift the wall and resupport it back in place. I wish you the best of luck with this endeavor.
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Old 07-15-2020, 05:54 AM   #4
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The top layer of Floor plywood lies on the aluminum framing under the wall. The wall must be screw to this framing. Not seeing any bolts Protruding on the underside That attach the wall. Once the floor Gets wet and loses strength. The walls and everything on it, is resting on the aluminum frame.
I’ve Welded or bolted 2 1/2” angle iron in front of the wheels(weakest point) and have 1/8” sheet steel 5-6” wide screwed to the bottom of the aluminum frame the wall rests on. This rests on the angle iron supports and is welded or bolted to it. Now the wall is actually attached to the trailer chassis.
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Old 07-15-2020, 06:06 AM   #5
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Here are a few more pics:
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Old 07-15-2020, 06:17 AM   #6
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Some of the pics are upsidedown for some reason. Sorry about that.
The second last pic is of a “downrigger” wall support I seen on a YouTube video which I wanted to copy but didn’t have the materials at the time. What I used will do fine. As an after thought, I should of used angle iron Instead of the steel sheathing under the wall for even more support. But hindsight is 20/20.
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Old 07-15-2020, 11:17 AM   #7
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First sheet if plywood is down along with styrofoam SM. Donít know why the picture is upsidedown again.
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Old 07-15-2020, 03:14 PM   #8
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That is very nice work.
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Old 07-20-2020, 04:11 AM   #9
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Hoping to have the floor completed today maybe tomorrow depending on the temperatures outside. Forecasted to be hot and humid.
I have a couple of cross beams to install first. The grey water holding tank is preventing me from supporting the floor like I would like. I have a couple ideas so we will see how it goes. Hereís an example of what Iíve been doing to get rid of the floor movement:
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Old 07-20-2020, 04:14 AM   #10
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Any suggestions on the type of flooring to use. Iíve seen a few people use laminated flooring but with the long winters we have here, I think it would be a mistake.
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Old 07-20-2020, 06:14 AM   #11
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I'm trying to see the big picture here... but your photos seem cropped. One picture looks like your new floor, the other picture looks like a cabnetry frame.
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Old 07-21-2020, 03:35 AM   #12
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I'm trying to see the big picture here... but your photos seem cropped. One picture looks like your new floor, the other picture looks like a cabnetry frame.
No cropping on the pics. But your right about the cabinetry. I didnít want to cut any plumbing if possible so I just unscrewed the cabinet(sink and oven) and lifted it up enough to get the flooring under it. I wanted to show how I attached the floor joist to the chassis and, at the same time, stiffen the 2x6, which is on itís side and not edge.
I could only do this in a couple places due to the grey water and Fresh water tanks being in the way. If I had a joist installed across(above) a tank, I screwed angle iron to the side of it to lessen the bounce. It seems to have worked great. I just finished screwing down a sheet of plywood and no bounce whatsoever. Hereís another couple pics.
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Old 07-21-2020, 07:39 PM   #13
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Finally, floor is done and ready to be covered.
Floor section between the washroom and door is the only original floor remaining and is still good. It will be changed too at some point just not now��. I’ll post a final pic when the floor vinyl is installed and everything is put back in place.
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Old 07-21-2020, 08:03 PM   #14
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Nice!

In 2000, I bought a new Trail Lite 7253 and within the year, the dealer shipped it back to R-Vision for a lot of work to be done, including floor repair and axle/tire upgrade. The floor, was 2" thick styrofoam and had several low spots. I traded it in 2001 onto a motorhome.

Well life marched on, we sold the motorhome and many years later, in 2018, I bought another Trail Lite. If hindsight were only 20/20, I should have kept the first one I had bought new. I'll bet that if somebody hasn't abused it and has kept the roof sealed, it is still a good one. I'm convinced now that of all of the light weight trailers, Trail Lite was one of the best.
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