Community Forums

bionix · 07-02-2018, 03:43 PM

I have a 17-year old 21-ft expandable trailer that has held up pretty well especially since I store it indoors during the winter. However just before storing it last year, I noticed that there had been a leak in the front storage area.

Apparently the outside seam had come loose and water had seeped inside. The floor cross member at the front had partially rotted and some of the 1/4" plywood under the floor tile. In the meantime, i made sure that the seam was caulked since the screw will no longer hold it to the chassis.

The leak was only on one side and so only about 1/4 of the cross-member and floor is affected.

Other than removing the benches and ripping out the affected cross-member and replacing it, any advice on repairing that part of the floor? I was thinking of just putting a new piece of 1/4" plywood over the affected area and then re-tiling.

-Rainer

Superslif · 07-05-2018, 06:09 PM

Your doing good for a 17 year old trailer. I wouldn't go crazy and start ripping out any sub-structure. Biggest thing is to STOP where it was leaking in the first place. You can spent 100 man hours doing a complete floor replacement but a 17 year old unit is only worth so much. A 1/4" plywood over-lay would do the job. I would screw it in just in case in the future it ever had to come out again.

The front of any RV trailer takes a beating especially driving in the rain. On the roof I will do a hands and knees inspection 3 times a year of all caulked areas.

Even my new trailer I check in my front storage area to make sure no water made it in if I drove thru a hard rain storm.

bionix · 07-11-2018, 09:42 AM

Thanks very much for your reply, Jim, Diane and Robert,

I spent the weekend looking after a leak in the roof. It looks like the AC gasket was shot and there was some rippling on the ceiling inside. I replaced the gasket and also replaced a couple of broken vents while i was up there. I doubled up on all lap sealant on the roof just in case.

I will probably just lay down a 1/4" sheet in the front storage area where the water had leaked in. The floor still looks strong enough and is all dried out now.

I want to replace the linoleum there and the rest of the floor w/o taking all the benches out. I've tested some paste-and-stick 12" x 12" tiles but they don't adhere all that well onto the surface under the current linoleum. Any suggestions on what type of adhesive I could use to make sure they stay down?

-Rainer

Superslif · 07-13-2018, 07:22 AM

Quote:

I want to replace the linoleum there and the rest of the floor w/o taking all the benches out. I've tested some paste-and-stick 12" x 12" tiles but they don't adhere all that well onto the surface under the current linoleum. Any suggestions on what type of adhesive I could use to make sure they stay down?

No, not really....

bantamcamp · 09-23-2018, 03:27 AM

I also have the same issue! Seems that this 2003 B17B camper has water ingress in the same spots! My damage is quite extensive from what I am seeing pop outs were left open for quit some time. (another design flaw(canvas water pockets)) Previous attempt(s) have sheet rock screws holding front bottom molding in place. Inside cross piece along with flooring back to kitchen area is rotted. Previous owner tried to coverup with 1/2 ply and tile lino. Great winter project, too bad I have no garage!!! Brrrrr in NEPA!

bantamcamp · 01-02-2019, 12:33 PM

Update! Tore apart the front end removing all SR screws and 3" inside screws. Once the rotted 2x4 tie was removed you could see why there was a leak! Who ever "repaired" the camper missed the mark sealing the front. There was a piece of material that was stuffed under the fascia trim and it was 3" too narrow to do any good. Also you could see daylight coming from the front corners.

I now also found that the door side since there never was any cross bracing has sagged 3/8 to 1/2"!

Next update a plan to remedy.

IrishSettler · 01-14-2019, 02:31 PM

Same problem with my C19 Trail Lite. I live in Dallas, PA. Are you nearby?

bantamcamp · 04-13-2019, 08:46 AM

My apologies I never received a notification that there was a reply!

I am located near Hawley PA.

Since the time of my post I have been awaiting good weather to tackle the front. Replaced the front cross 2x4 with PT wood. Purchased Tyveck sheet to cover inside to out on bottom seam

I managed to put in a center beam in line with frame to remove any bounce, built 2 "L" brackets to perhaps bolster up door side. Hoping for no adverse effect to the outer shell and rood!

It was supposed to be a good day today but as you well know in NEPA "Rain is it"

IrishSettler · 04-19-2019, 09:44 PM

Thanks for getting back. I replaced 8 feet of floor starting at the very front where the rotten curved piece was.
Lot of very hard work!
I moved the propane tank mount completely out onto the “A” frame and then installed a diamond rock guard that bolted the fiberglass skin to the cross flange on the frame. Just completely sealed the area yesterday with clear Flex-Seal. This week I plan to start painting the interior slate blue with white trim.
Jim

alEX98 · 05-01-2019, 10:11 AM

Hi to Everyone. This post from bionix pushed me to be member of this community. I have a 2005 bantam 19'' with the LP tanks integrated in the front of the trailer. I guess the previous owner had a big water leak for years under this Fiberglass LP tanks cabinet... that I found. I had a Rotten front curved wood piece like yours on the right front corner that I changed 2 years ago. Now, I would like to repair the front floor in storage area because it's black, wet (doesn't dry out) and soft. This year, floor feel soft around the front near the front bed. I would need your help to let me know the material used in this light floor. Is it 2 X 1/4'' plywood with a foam sandwiched in-between ? Can I change a part of it without removing the walls and top of the trailer ? how much time it can take to change 4-5 feet of the front floor by myself ? Thanks in advance for your comments.

bantamcamp · 05-06-2019, 03:15 AM

In my 17' repair (door in front) I found an Oreo style underlayment topped with lino and 1/2" ply over it! I tore all out down to the membrane and repaired all hole with black Gorilla tape top and bottom. I added a PT 2X4 between the frame centered underneath to lessen the "bounce" topside. Above membrane I then added a clear thick sheet of plastic, built a 2x4 frame with 2X6's (across frame) at door for step attachment and under front bulkhead several gaps in between were 12 and 16" I then used pink 1 1/2" rigid foam to fill in the gaps. Used Gorilla construction to attach to 2x4's - Messy...have pics will post!