https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?...1&l=fde0fa212a
Ok so i just spent over 90 minutes gathering information, typing it all up so it would make sense, and i was literally almost done and then my entire computer crashed, so needless to day im a bit aggravated atm, but i didnt do all that for nothing so im going to try and sum up what i had already typed before:
Pictures are attached of the travel trailer, Nada guides lists it between 5,500lbs and 8,100lbs from the factory, we are buying it in about a month for $150, its 37' long, 7'10" wide, and 9'6" tall, not sure on its actual weight as its frozen to the ground and buried under knee deep snow as shown in the pictures.
The pictures kinda make it look worse than it really is, its mostly just in need of a cleaning and small repairs, no structural damage i could find, and no roof leaks anywhere and it was raining the day i was there and 2ft of snow had melted the day before, so if there was a leak it would have presented itself. (outside temp was around 42F that day and in the camper it was about 50F on the thermometer)
I am going to state, yet again this is not your standard run of the mill travel trailer and hence why pictures have been attached right away. Seller states its a 1983, i think its more like a late 70's.
The main beams are 8" tall and 2.5" wide on the flanges, the tongue is 80" long and extends 30" under the edge of the trailer, the tongue is 8" x 2.25" and all thicknesses are around 1/4" (0.25)
It currently has dexter 2x 6K axles with the UTG demountable hubs and 14.5" wheels and i already emailed dexter about it and they gave me the parts breakdown to convert them to the standard 8x6.5" pattern:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8...FUWm85WEhIVWlF
They are NOT MH axles, i checked, they do have multileaf springs and are cambered just like travel trailers are supposed to be, the current brakes work but i will have all new brakes and bearings if i am switching over anyways.
I cannot find anything on the exact beams used but
Junior Beams On ANS Steel Co. has a 8"x2.80"x 1/8" listed at 6.5lb/ft, but mine are almost twice as thick and the main beams are a little wider too.
So i would have to gander that my junior beams are rated somewhere between the 6.5lb/ft and 10/lb ft
I have measured and looked up specs on various car and utility trailers at different lots and most are using a 5" or 6" C-Channel up to 12,000lbs even as high as 14,000 in some cases, but I did measure a deckover i have rented before and the main beams are 8"x4" and rated at 10lbs/ft and those trailers range from 14K up to 24K GWVR if they are tandem axle or tri-axle and which axles are used, and the spacing of the 3" crossmembers.
I could not find anything etched or engraved on the tongue of the trailer to say GVWR or dry weight or hitch capacity.
I would say the GVWR would be between 10K and 12K based on 2 6,000lb axles, I also checked inside every cabinet and panel inside and found nothing.
The seller said that it made a 2000's silverado 2500 squat alot so i know the tongue weight is already biased to the front.
The axles are 12.75" and 15.5" currently from the rear of the trailer.
Its really big, the inside is about 7'6" wide and 7' false ceilings, the tip outs are 6' tall inside too so enough room to stand up.
This post has 2 purposes, 1, show the beginning of this project, and 2. try to get more information on the frame/chassis capacity.
The trailer is wired for a 4-wire 120V/240V connection, no 12V currently in it.
Our goals for this trailer are:
Clean it up and repair the tip outs
1000W-1200W of solar panels ( we already have 400W)
Wire in basic 12V systems, plug ins, lights, USB ports, and 12V fans
Add a few Crossmembers to re-inforce the strength of the frame
Remove the wall separating the bathroom from the bedroom
Remove the tub and bathroom sink
Build a removable solid wall where the rear tip out is for extra rigidity in the back.
Make a door frame out of 4x4's at the very back and install either a garage door, barndoors, or a fold down ramp.
Re-inforce the rear and add a 3rd axle if need be, to be able to support any of the following combinations: my wifes 2002 volvo (3,200lbs) our mid 90's S10 blazer (3,800lbs) our K5 blazer 4,200, or any future offroad equipment such as a side by side, or a JD gator 6x6, or a pair of 4 wheelers, etc.
I would not consider doing this with a standard travel trailer as they use very small C channel or other thin support for the floors, this trailer is built much much heavier than any travel trailer i have seen or owned. even our 1992 34ft travel trailer only used 6" beams and it was rated for 7,000lbs GVWR 8 lug wheels, tandem axle. our smaller 16' only used 4" C channel IIRC and was only rated for 5,000LBS GVWR.
I do not have the empty weight of the trailer but the bedroom was already gutted, so thats probably why it has so much tongue weight. I will be bringing 500lbs of sandbags to put in the bedroom to compensate for whats been removed already.
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