Community Forums

mxz700jp · 05-22-2023, 07:53 PM

Hi everybody!
I'm new to this site, but own three Holiday Rambler Alumalite trailers. I have an 88, 89 and and my newest is a 96.

I have an electrical problem. I have 12 VDC leaving the battery box on the 6 gauge red wire, but I loose it before it get to the 12 VDC fuse panel. Is there a hidden 50 amp fuse or breaker. My owners manual references a strip of them including one for the slide motor, but I can't locate it.

Any suggestions anybody???

Skip426 · 05-22-2023, 11:39 PM

I can't say where your circuit breaker would be located ; but ; most wiring should be fuse/C/B protected withing 3' of the power source ( battery).
Follow the wire and if goes down the frame then inside the RV , you have to get to the exact spot inside the RV for your search .

mxz700jp · 05-24-2023, 04:33 AM

Skip426,

Thanks for the reply. I found a fuse in the battery box. I have 12VDC through it and the 6ga. wire leaves the battery box with power. It runs approx. 6-7' and comes up where the Converter, 120 V Breaker Box and 12 VDC fuse panel is. I have no 12 VDC where the 6ga. red wire connects to the 12 V fuse panel. The owners manual has a schematic that shows a 50 AMP breaker for the batteries as well as the hydraulic slide motor and some other stuff. I was wondering if anyone knew if this strip of breakers could be under the trailer?? Would make no sense. There is now way that the 6ga. red wire is broke as it would arc and draw the batteries down or trip the breaker in the battery box. Same way when I'm plugged into 120 the converter fuse would trip if the wire were broke.
Help

Skip426 · 05-24-2023, 10:47 AM

The wire would have to be broken AND touching grounded METAL to blow the fuses , at the battery or the converter.
If the wire has been cut and is only in contact with wood ( or not in contact with anything metal at the break ) you only have an open circuit not a short.

BTW; RV manufacturers putting fuses and or circuit breakers in a spot that makes no sense , is nothing new .
So under the trailer on the frame rail wouldn't be unusual ; no thought to long term reliability .

mxz700jp · 05-24-2023, 06:24 PM

That is my next adventure. I'm going to remove some under metal wrap and take a peak. If I locate it I will create an access panel. When I do find the problem I will be sure to post it.

Thanks again for your help.

**hamm2018** · 05-28-2023, 08:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mxz700jp

The owners manual has a schematic that shows a 50 AMP breaker for the batteries as well as the hydraulic slide motor and some other stuff. I was wondering if anyone knew if this strip of breakers could be under the trailer?? Would make no sense. Help

Generally, these breakers are the small auto style, which are installed on the trailer frame near the batteries.
Some of these breakers are manual reset and others are auto-reset style. Most should be covered with a "red boot". You will need to feel it breaker to see if you can feel a small push button to rest these.

Airheadbit · 09-18-2023, 06:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mxz700jp

That is my next adventure. I'm going to remove some under metal wrap and take a peak. If I locate it I will create an access panel. When I do find the problem I will be sure to post it.

Thanks again for your help.

I purchased a 1996 HR AlumaLite 31' and learned the hard way, water heater, fridge, furnace, toilet, water pump, A/C unit and the tires were 'C' class way under the weight of the trailer. Did I mention the 7 year old (dead) batteries?
The furnace was the controller, motor and fan plus maintenance, the fridge was the controller and maintenance, the water heater was a tankless replacement, toilet was a 310 Dometic replacement, water pump was a relocation and replacement and all the gray water lines were replaced with PEX inside the trailer making it winter proof. The tires and rims were replaced with 'E' rated tires and I did fix the A/C by replacing the controller and caps but two years later (two months ago) the A/C unit leaked fluid and died, $1,500 Brisk II with heat pump.
I have never found my 'Converter', the unit that charges the batter and provides DC while hooked to A/C (I changed my 110 30 amp input to 240 A/C 50 amp with a separate A/C panel for the extra 110 A/C and outlets along the left wall) I found a square aluminum cover in the front center bottom of the RV, yet another project to get to.