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Old 09-25-2024, 09:41 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by db4570 View Post
Actually, I think the electrical bottleneck, so to speak, is the truck wiring to the trailer plug, more than the wiring inside the camper itself.

It would be interesting to know what wire gauge is typically used for most camper fridges. I doubt it's bigger than 12.

On a previous TV and camper I had a shop run a heavier gauge wire to the 7-pin to try to accomplish what the OP wants. I forget the gauge. Maybe 12. I never really ran it through its paces before I changed TV and camper.

With my current setup, I have an 8 amp DC-DC charger which is a perfect solution. I ran a heavy-gauge wire (10 ga., overkill) direct from the TV battery (with a fuse) to the back of the TV with enough extra length to reach the trailer tongue. That's where I installed the DC-DC charger, protected from the weather under the propane tank cover.

The purpose of the DC-DC is to raise the voltage to the camper battery, and also to limit the amps drawn from the TV system. We all think in terms of 12V, but a battery needs 13 or 14 volts to charge the battery. (I forget the exact voltage, and it depends on the battery chemistry.)

The voltage to a regular 7-pin, after traveling 25' or so of small gauge wire in the TV, can be too low to charge a battery much, if at all. The DC-DC is really a perfect solution. It doesn't care if its input voltage is a little low, and it boosts its output up to perfect battery-charging voltage.

I bought the Powerwerx 8 amp DC-DC for $70. (A great outfit, BTW, that I buy all kinds of DC electrical stuff from). It does this task being discussed perfectly for me.

I use it when towing for a full day. My battery might go down 60 ah or so in a day using the fridge and other stuff, so at 8 amps for 8 hours of towing I'm keeping up.

OP, with your 10 amp fridge draw, might need a bigger one to keep up.
Fine! Thanks! Something else to think about and spend money on.

I will do more research on it.
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Old 09-26-2024, 08:59 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LaneG View Post
Thanks for all you input. Yes I plan on running two wires, probably 10 or 8 gauge to be safe.

The fridge manual says to use 10 or 12 guage wire. But I think I'll over do it.
Wire guage is determined by the appliance load. The manual is good advice for this. The fuse is matched to the wire gauge. You can always use larger wire.

12 gauge wire needs a 20 amp fuse.
10 gauge wire needs a 30 amp fuse.
8 gauge wire needs 40 to 55 amp fuse depending on the type of wire or cable used. You can always use 40 amp for safe operation.

A smaller fuse than standard is allowed in any case. So you can use a 20 amp fuse with 8 gauge wire.

Some load types need special types of fuses. If your manual does not specify a special type of fuse, then standard automotive fuses are the correct type.
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Old 09-26-2024, 10:09 AM   #17
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Ditto on the DC to DC charger; if you decide to run the fridge on 12V while driving, this is the way.


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Old 09-27-2024, 11:06 PM   #18
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12v will keep a cold fridge from heating up much, but it will not cool it down, and won't maintain the temp for very long. Rarely used any more.

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Old 09-27-2024, 11:31 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by db4570 View Post
Actually, I think the electrical bottleneck, so to speak, is the truck wiring to the trailer plug, more than the wiring inside the camper itself.

It would be interesting to know what wire gauge is typically used for most camper fridges. I doubt it's bigger than 12.

On a previous TV and camper I had a shop run a heavier gauge wire to the 7-pin to try to accomplish what the OP wants. I forget the gauge. Maybe 12. I never really ran it through its paces before I changed TV and camper.

With my current setup, I have an 8 amp DC-DC charger which is a perfect solution. I ran a heavy-gauge wire (10 ga., overkill) direct from the TV battery (with a fuse) to the back of the TV with enough extra length to reach the trailer tongue. That's where I installed the DC-DC charger, protected from the weather under the propane tank cover.

The purpose of the DC-DC is to raise the voltage to the camper battery, and also to limit the amps drawn from the TV system. We all think in terms of 12V, but a battery needs 13 or 14 volts to charge the battery. (I forget the exact voltage, and it depends on the battery chemistry.)

The voltage to a regular 7-pin, after traveling 25' or so of small gauge wire in the TV, can be too low to charge a battery much, if at all. The DC-DC is really a perfect solution. It doesn't care if its input voltage is a little low, and it boosts its output up to perfect battery-charging voltage.

I bought the Powerwerx 8 amp DC-DC for $70. (A great outfit, BTW, that I buy all kinds of DC electrical stuff from). It does this task being discussed perfectly for me.

I use it when towing for a full day. My battery might go down 60 ah or so in a day using the fridge and other stuff, so at 8 amps for 8 hours of towing I'm keeping up.

OP, with your 10 amp fridge draw, might need a bigger one to keep up.
The 8 amp Dc to DC charger will not even keep up with the fridge, never mind support the fridge, anything else that may be on and charge the battery.
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Old 09-30-2024, 02:55 AM   #20
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I really appreciate this forum and all the helpful people here.

I'm installing my new Boondocker power panel and converter. I'm reading about wiring the Dometic RM360 Fridge. I need to know how big of a fuse to put it on.

It tells me that it needs two separate wires, one for positive and one for negative back to power source i.e. the power panel. Right now the trailer was only wired with one positive wire and grounded to the frame. So do I really need to run a wire for the ground?

Also, the fridge manual says "do not operate the refrigerator on 12 volt when the vehicle is parked. You will run out of battery in a rather short time."

So with the trailer battery and vehicle battery basically hooked together when towing, how much time do I have before this happens? The manual tells me that it is a 10 amp draw. Is it a constant 10 amps? Or does it cycle like my kitchen fridge does?
--------------
I don't know how old your 3-way is, but:

Years ago we only ran on 12V when driving because there was a chance the pilot light would blow out. We would switch to 120V or propane when we parked.

12V was just cold enough to maintain temp provided you didn't open the door much.

Now, I drive with propane on (no pilot light) and don't even have 12V cooling.
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Old 10-01-2024, 10:35 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by garywilson View Post
--------------
I don't know how old your 3-way is, but:

Years ago we only ran on 12V when driving because there was a chance the pilot light would blow out. We would switch to 120V or propane when we parked.

12V was just cold enough to maintain temp provided you didn't open the door much.

Now, I drive with propane on (no pilot light) and don't even have 12V cooling.
Thanks for that GaryWilson, appreciate the feedback.
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