I have a 2011 Keystone Outback 250RS
It has ST225/75R/15E tires. I upgraded from D to E rating.
Trailer has 4400# AL-KO axles. Painted on axles is... T4485/68 5-TMUI
I believe these specs are 4400# 85" Hub face, 68.5 Spring centers
Parts are no longer available for this axle. AL-KO was purchased by Dexter in 2014 and is no longer supported by Dexter.
The Dexter axle parts are not interchangeable (per Dexter and several parts houses.
Beware if you have these AL-KO axles on your trailer.
So, I am preparing to order 2 new 6000# axles. Manufacturer is Friedl axle, made in California. Axles are built to specs.
Ex. 6K axle, 12" brakes, EZ Lube axle, Double lipped grease seals, and wiring either in or out of axle.
NOTE: I will be installing new MORryde CRE3000 equalizers and MORryde Wet Bolt Kit
Attached are pics of the painted letters/numbers on my axle (I did measure spring centers to confirm the 68.5" measurement, as it appears to be 68 with a space then a 5). Also order options for Friedl Axles.
Beyond the axle specs, what are considerations to take when ordering and installing a new axle?
1. Wire in or out of axle?
2. Will a 15" wheel fit on the upgraded 12" brake drums?
3. ???
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No advice about which ones to order, but when installing, make sure you are ready to re-torque the u-bolt nuts early and often.
I had one of my Lippert axles replaced and it came with a sticker that said to re-torque the u-bolt nuts at 5, 10, and 25 miles.
I did that and was shocked had how much they required. At 5 miles, I needed almost a full turn on all 8 nuts to get them retorqued. At 10 miles I need about a 1/4 turn on 7 of 8 nuts to retorque. At 25 miles, 3 needed just a slight turn to get back to torque specs. Even at 125 miles, one needed a slight tightening to get to torque specs.
parts are still widely available for them. you just have to pull them apart and get the bearing numbers and do a measurement on the brakes and buy a complete backing plate system..
parts are still widely available for them. you just have to pull them apart and get the bearing numbers and do a measurement on the brakes and buy a complete backing plate system..
Bearings and seals are available. Brake shoes, springs, drums are not. I found some individual parts here and there (ex. brake shoes one place, magnets at another), but if a break down were to occur on the road,.....I'm SOL!
The wires outside of the axle tube! If you put miles on the trailer, they only develop a short to ground over time and your trailer brake controller will turn off at the worst time possibly causing an accident because you can't stop.
12 x 2 drums fit with 15" wheels no problem. The wheels MUST BE 6 lug 15" wheels!
You have not said any thing about leaf springs , Dont go to heavy . I would consider staying with the 5200 lb spec springs . Maybe the comfort ride slipper springs would be a good choice , in witch case you can skip the center trunnion cost.
I would also suggest adding shocks to the trailer if your doing all this work , they make the ride smoother
maybe I missed it but why do you need new axle, based on the photo they look great.
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2015 42' Redwood RL38 Morryde IS , disk brakes, 1920W of solar with Victron everything,5 Battleborn, 2024 GMC DRW 3500HD ,60 gallons of fuel in the bed,Hensley BD5 air ride hitch.
The wires outside of the axle tube! If you put miles on the trailer, they only develop a short to ground over time and your trailer brake controller will turn off at the worst time possibly causing an accident because you can't stop.
12 x 2 drums fit with 15" wheels no problem. The wheels MUST BE 6 lug 15" wheels!
You have not said any thing about leaf springs , Dont go to heavy . I would consider staying with the 5200 lb spec springs . Maybe the comfort ride slipper springs would be a good choice , in witch case you can skip the center trunnion cost.
I would also suggest adding shocks to the trailer if your doing all this work , they make the ride smoother
maybe I missed it but why do you need new axle, based on the photo they look great.
I decided on the 6K axles. I wanted the heavier tube (3" by 1/4" tube wall thickness).
From factory, trailer came with 4400# and there was some sagging and flattening of rear springs. Trailer GVWR is 7500#.
Fresh water tank (30gal) and spare tire with under frame storage carrier, are both behind rear axle. I also like to run with full water when traveling.
I went with 3K double eye springs. If too stiff, which I doubt, I can always step down to 5200.
See post #1....Current Axle is an Al-KO......parts are difficult to source and if I ever have a break down on the road, I would be SOL for parts!
MORryde wet bolt kit and their CRE3000 Equalizers will also be used.
MORryde X-Factor Crossmember for Standard Frame Hangers and a shock absorber kit may be considered for the future, depending on the ride.
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