And So it begins...

[SylviaCub]

One thing I noticed is that the inside of the aluminum near the running lights are definitely one of the areas where water infiltration happened. I may have to figure out a way to prevent that. We'll probably get new lights since most of these have lost their lenses.

The weather service is talking snow in the valley tomorrow or the next day. I think I might Crutch the ceilings like old school dry wallers use to hold up panels on the ceiling. Snow is heavy and since there is not much holding the walls up on this thing....I need to make sure they don't slide down to the ground. lol

I was planning on using that polystyrene sheathing to insulate. But I can't seem to find the R value of the stuff. Does anyone know the r-value of the 1.5" white polystyrene insulation?

[Pricejh]

Originally Posted by SylviaCub

One thing I noticed is that the inside of the aluminum near the running lights are definitely one of the areas where water infiltration happened. I may have to figure out a way to prevent that. We'll probably get new lights since most of these have lost their lenses.

The weather service is talking snow in the valley tomorrow or the next day. I think I might Crutch the ceilings like old school dry wallers use to hold up panels on the ceiling. Snow is heavy and since there is not much holding the walls up on this thing....I need to make sure they don't slide down to the ground. lol

I was planning on using that polystyrene sheathing to insulate. But I can't seem to find the R value of the stuff. Does anyone know the r-value of the 1.5" white polystyrene insulation?

3.2 to 5 per inch.

http://inspectapedia.com/interiors/I...lues-Table.htm

[SylviaCub]

Thank you! That helps bunches.

[SylviaCub]

Today we managed to get the closet wall out and more of the ceiling and wall in the bathroom pulled. I finally got to deal with that dent a bit. It needs more work since I don't have a panel hammer and other proper tools for body work I think I did ok getting the dent out thus far.

The first picture is before, the second picture is what I managed today.

[sam-3]

Good to see your pictures. Looks like you got most of the dents out. Exterier clearance lights are another area for leaks. Remove them all,clean good under them remount and apply alexell caulk. DH did a lot of soldering on ours and we now have moreconsistent lights. Occasionaly i have to smack one because it is misbehaving. Many have changed their lights to LED. Depends on how much dry camping you want to do. Some just want lower wattage usage. It is a bit pricy to do this. Another big source of water dammage is from the windows. Any trailer that is ten yrs. or older must have the windows taken out and resealed. This is a do it yourselfer job if you want it to be. We did all six windows in our RV. Would have cost lots at the dealer to have this done. This can take two hrs. or so to do this. I can describe how to do this when you are ready. You tube video is available on how to do this.

[SylviaCub]

Yes, I saw the leak marks from where the lights let water in. We'll be replacing them. I would like to have the led ones, but frankly it would be better for me to use the incandescent ones for running lights and Save the LED funds for interior lights. Besides, considering there are 14 amber ones and 2 red ones... it would take a while to get LED ones for the outside.

The Dents need a lot more work before I can say it's "done" I'll need to get a flat file and find something that will work as a dolly.... maybe a ball peen hammer will work. I'll keep working both sides until it's about as smooth as I can get it or until I say "screw it... that's good enough." lol

Another source of the leaking are the screw strips. The rubber is off on the left side of the trailer completely and I can see where the leaking is coming in from that area.

Right now the trailer is tarped over. We are expecting snow and i just would rather not chance it.

[SylviaCub]

Woot! Woot! I'm rather happy this afternoon. I have been searching Craigslist for pieces and parts for the trailer, especially the replacement tub and the water heater hatch. Well, I found a fellow who used to work for Kit Travel trailer division here in Caldwell. He had 2 tubs complete with surrounds. I got one set for my trailer for $110 and it matches the sink and toilet and he delivered it free.

And to make my day even better I'll be receiving my industrial leather sewing machine with walking foot that can sew up to 7/8" of tooling leather tomorrow. Now, I can get somethings done, finally.

[sam-3]

Nice find on the shower/tub unit. Just a thought,when you replace the screws in the trim strip use stainless steel ones that won't rust. Search the net for a good quanity and price. Any rusty screws you find means water/moisture has gotten to them. When we replaced our trim strip at the roof juncture it had 80 screws. We stainless steel ones. A box of 100 is about $16.00 at McFeelys. We replaced a lot of screws on our exterior. This makes a trailer look old/nasty. Best of luck with your new sewing machine. Wish I had a heavy duty sewing machine so I could make a sunbrella cover for winter. To buy one would cost $750.00 plus tax and shipping.

[SylviaCub]

Originally Posted by sam-3

Nice find on the shower/tub unit. Just a thought,when you replace the screws in the trim strip use stainless steel ones that won't rust. Search the net for a good quanity and price. Any rusty screws you find means water/moisture has gotten to them. When we replaced our trim strip at the roof juncture it had 80 screws. We stainless steel ones. A box of 100 is about $16.00 at McFeelys. We replaced a lot of screws on our exterior. This makes a trailer look old/nasty. Best of luck with your new sewing machine. Wish I had a heavy duty sewing machine so I could make a sunbrella cover for winter. To buy one would cost $750.00 plus tax and shipping.

Yes, new galvanized or stainless screws are on the list. And we did find a lot of rusty screws.

Hey, while i have you... when you did your floors was your underlayment screwed to some sort of timber work or was it bolted from below? On ours there is some sort of foam, painted black under the rotted floor. I've yet to see any "floor joists" or anything equivalent. Also what did you do for the walls? Hubby now tells me that the bead board paneling may be too heavy. I found some Lauan at Home Depot but I am not sure it's something I want to use.

[sam-3]

I made a costly mistake and transfered some spray cleaner into a used spray bottle. It bubbled up my floor in a couple of spots. The floor was in perfect shape before this happened. Our floor installer used a pink primer/sealer and put the new floor over the old floor. You never would know. This was a $550.00 lesson learned. Paneling advice: Keep in mind my RV is a HiLo and the top half slides down over the lower half. This means the walls can only be so thick. I think you could use the same dimensional underlay and paneling we used. Our RV dealer told us where to go for 1/8th inch underlay.Then we used sheets of styrofoam and 1/8 Georgia pacific paneling that had a Vinyl coating on it. Looks like wallpaper. Do a internet search on Georgia Pacific paneling and other panelings. We ordered ours in from our local ACE hardwear. Look in Home Depot.Lowes ect. for ideas. You do have to be concerned with weight. I have read other RV remodels where they did use beadboard on the walls. Check out my story with captions at 1990 Classic Restoration on Photobucket.Pictures by 3SamTLPX-Photo.

[SylviaCub]

Well the bead board paneling is 4x8x3/16" or so the problem is that it's like MDF hardboard on the backside. That stuff is always heavy and weight is a concern. I'm seriously thinking of using that plastic panel stuff which is so thin and flexible it can be literally rolled into a tube, but I don't want it to create a bulging wall look.

My main question is the floors. I can't tell yet how they are constructed. Hubby seems to think it's 1/2 inch flake board (OSB) that's just bolted to the frame. But that would NOT make sense to me construction wise.

Your link didn't work and my google search yielded nothing.

[SylviaCub]

Well, it's been a while since I posted on this. Since I last posted. The city has bugged me about having my trailer parked on my lawn. Pffft... I called and told them I could not move it until I could get the walls rebuilt. LOL they gave me until April 30. I hate city living... stupid ordinances.

So any way last weekend (sunday and monday) we moved the trailer cross-wise on our drive way. The reason we did this is because that way we can open the garage doors and move in and out of the garage and save a few steps.

yesterday and today hubby and I managed to figure out how the floor was attached and removed the worst parts of the bathroom floor... and found a surprise! The black water tank had about a 10 inch crack or gash across the top. "Lovely"

I've also been slowly working on the upholstery work. I have most of the tops and bottoms cut and have made yards and yards of welting. Several of the panels are welted and once they are all done I'll begin the process of putting the zippers in.

[rhks]

Please be cooperative. Neighbors in my area tried, 18 months later, it got nasty.

[SylviaCub]

Originally Posted by rhks

Please be cooperative. Neighbors in my area tried, 18 months later, it got nasty.

I must say that the ordinance enforcement office was awesome. They gave me the time I needed and even extended when we found that winter wasn't cooperating with our plans. I didn't have to move it until April 30 so I'm ahead of schedule on that point.

Yesterday found out that husband has to work 2 weeks straight without a day off. The overtime is great I'm sure he won't want to be doing any work on the trailer afterwards.

Today I went out and started scraping up the old flooring. Removed a good chunk of it and cleaned up the bits.