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Old 11-11-2021, 08:03 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by Dave Pelletier View Post
It may well be that way but it's not how I've seen similar furnaces work before and it seems more than a bit foolish for the furnace manufacturer's to allow the coach builder discretion on whether or not to allow for return air. .....if this IS how it is then I'd imagine the installation instructions should have a minimum size return air opening spec'd....it's not as if supply static is much of a variable with 90+% of the air being discharged directly from the face.

....maybe I'm giving them more credit than they deserve.


Dave
Different models of RV furnaces have different designs. The one the OP has is designed for a closed cabinet space. I have a similar one in my 20 foot Kodiak Cub.

Installation instructions require a certain minimum distance between sides, top of furnace, and back. Instructions do not require any return air ducts or vent space.

My furnace is noisy and blasts a lot of hot air into the living space. It heats a cold trailer fast. It worked fine before I cut vent holes inside cabinets to circulate through plumbing spaces and it works fine now.
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Old 11-11-2021, 08:22 AM   #16
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I’m certainly no expert. But this is a new TT and it appears that the OP has documentation. Check the furnace manual and read the install instructions. That may tell the input and output requirements.
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Old 11-11-2021, 10:17 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by Persistent View Post
Different models of RV furnaces have different designs. The one the OP has is designed for a closed cabinet space. I have a similar one in my 20 foot Kodiak Cub.

Installation instructions require a certain minimum distance between sides, top of furnace, and back. Instructions do not require any return air ducts or vent space.

My furnace is noisy and blasts a lot of hot air into the living space. It heats a cold trailer fast. It worked fine before I cut vent holes inside cabinets to circulate through plumbing spaces and it works fine now.
Exactly; if it's designed for a closed cabinet space (and I'd lay odds that it is) then it shouldn't need any additional return air from the back and, in fact, there shouldn't be any openings in the back or sides of the furnace for return air to get in. ....the clearances are typically for heat.

Without seeing it in person or reading the installation instructions we are just guessing but I doubt adding grills to the millwork will or should make any difference.

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Old 11-11-2021, 10:18 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by CWP3 View Post
Iím certainly no expert. But this is a new TT and it appears that the OP has documentation. Check the furnace manual and read the install instructions. That may tell the input and output requirements.
Yep, that's where to start

Dave
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Old 11-11-2021, 10:35 PM   #19
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I was reading the install instructions tonight while loading the TT for another weekend boondocking trip. Friday night and Saturday night we will have a generator deployed and will have an electric radiator style elector plugged in.

It appears the manufacturer used the minimum amount of clearance between the side of the small type furnace and the wall. I'll have to measure when I get a chance. There was definite room to move the furnace a few inches to the side, thus making sure distance Dometic (Atwood) called for.

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Originally Posted by Dave Pelletier View Post
Exactly; if it's designed for a closed cabinet space (and I'd lay odds that it is) then it shouldn't need any additional return air from the back and, in fact, there shouldn't be any openings in the back or sides of the furnace for return air to get in. ....the clearances are typically for heat.

Without seeing it in person or reading the installation instructions we are just guessing but I doubt adding grills to the millwork will or should make any difference.

Dave
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