Go to a real Industrial supply bearings and drive place to get Timkens, you won't find them anywhere else. Toyo Koyo is also as good, but they will also be from a bearing and drive place. Forget auto parts places. NAPA mostly has SKF which is many times Mexican made, though it varies with part number. Timkens, depending on part number also may be made elsewhere but usually are USA made.
I replaced the bearings on 3500 lb Lippert axles about two years ago, and just last month replaced the bearings on 3500 lb axles on my Bigfoot which are Standens LTD of Calgary, AB with Dexter brakes and hub/drums. None of these were EZ-Lube however the Dexter catalog...
https://www.dexteraxle.com/docs/defa...rsn=a33ae348_0
(scroll down to PDF page 7, which is catalog page 25)
The Dexter catalog does not differentiate between ez-lube and standard except to show both kinds of nuts and locking devices on the axle, in the same drawing. These bearings and seal are the same on both the Lippert and Standen/Dexter axles I have, all 3500 lb axles.
Outer bearing L44649
Outer race L44610
Inner bearing L68149
Inner race L68111
Seal is a 10-19 ID 1.719 in, OD 2.565 in.
National seal # 473336
Don't hold me responsible if it is not right but if you have 3500 lb Dexter, I cannot see how it could be anything else. If the outer face of your brake drums have the number 8-247 cast into them, then this is the correct page.
I bought the bearings and races (they come separate) from B&D Industrial here in Georgia, and paid Just shy of $170 including tax and $13 shipping as they drop shipped from their warehouse to me. (these are not popular with anyone in industry so they generally don't stock them in the local stores). The seals I bought from a local trailer place for a couple of bucks each, Chinese, but then found the number 10-19 crosses to the number above which is much better I am sure but is about $10 each.
Use a bearing packer such as the Lisle 34550
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/l...iABEgLzofD_BwE
And a good synthetic moly grease (I like moly in grease in bearings)
and you destroy seals removing them so a mallet and prybar.
I use a two pound or so hammer and a long taper punch with the hub on a large block of wood on the floor to knock out the races and drive them in with bearing driver set I have. They are available cheap but you probably can borrow or rent from auto parts stores that have tools, just make sure the proper size drivers have not been lost.
The race OD's are 2.36 in and 1.98 in so I think this one covers it,
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wmr-w83020
I set the seal with an arbor press and a socket from my 3/4 drive set, but it is easily done with a piece of 2x4 and a hammer if you are careful.
I scrapped the bearings from the Lippert axles but the ones from the Bigfoot, I cleaned and dried and packed one set and bagged up for a spare, the others I bagged though I would never use them unless it was a last resort. I despise China made bearings, only failure I have ever had was China made. Have changed others because I didn't like the looks of them, but the China made one ground itself it to dust (front wheel of a car) Cheap insurance to get good bearings and grease.
Charles