Choosing a TT

[scrapperjohn]

Look at LANCE trailers. My f-150 tows my 2285 just fine.

[bst24351]

Originally Posted by davis2

The 1500 will pull it, but stopping is quite another adventure in certain conditions...

I here this being posted over and over and it’s quite silly. You guys must tow with out your brakes plugged in? If you think a little 8,000 lb f250 is any better at stopping a 15,000lb trailer then a 5500lb f150 is at stopping a 8,000 lb trailer then you are delusional.

[dedobias]

Apex is a good brand and very light. In my own research about 1000#s lighter than wood framed or wood supported roof trailers. 7600 must be max weight, not dry weight. Look at both when comparing trailers. Obviously you will hear a ton of your truck is too small. Run all your numbers.

[davis2]

Originally Posted by bst24351

I here this being posted over and over and it’s quite silly. You guys must tow with out your brakes plugged in? If you think a little 8,000 lb f250 is any better at stopping a 15,000lb trailer then a 5500lb f150 is at stopping a 8,000 lb trailer then you are delusional.

You're the delusional one. Make sure you tell us when you have brake fade or failure. It will happen, unless you are afraid of hills...

[bmcgc]

Most comment, few do any actual research.

The 1996 F250 SRW 4X4 with a 10,000# payload package was equipped with 13" front discs and 12x3 rear drums.

The 2021 F250 SRW 4X4 with a 10,000# payload package is equiped with F&R 14.3" discs.

My 2020 F150 with a 2049 CCC and the 6800# GVWR package has F 13.8" and R 13.3" discs.

My 2020 F150 will outbrake a 1996 F250.

If used correctly these trucks have plenty of brakes.

[Cumminsfan]

Never understood the reasoning behind "Gotta be able to stop it" When we had our F150 and a 7200 lb TT I never ever had an issue stopping. In fact the F150 TBC was the best one to date.

Now if you throw in a diesel to the mix then all bets are off.

[bst24351]

Originally Posted by davis2

You're the delusional one. Make sure you tell us when you have brake fade or failure. It will happen, unless you are afraid of hills...

Yea ok because all the run a way lanes were put in because of the 1500s that couldn’t stop on grade. Oh wait they were for tractor trailers that are purpose built for towing. So I guess that means only 150/1500s and tractor trailers might have issues stopping downhill but your 2500/3500 are immune.

[davis2]

Originally Posted by bst24351

Yea ok because all the run a way lanes were put in because of the 1500s that couldn’t stop on grade. Oh wait they were for tractor trailers that are purpose built for towing. So I guess that means only 150/1500s and tractor trailers might have issues stopping downhill but your 2500/3500 are immune.

Keep telling stories... Maybe we can talk when you grow up a little. I had to drive more than 1 POS truck that employers failed to repair timely or adequately. So you do run into situations when it hits the fan, and if you pull a trailer that's a bit too heavy down a hill you thought wasn't too steep... If you had any experience, you'd know, but you just want to run your mouth.

[davis2]

Originally Posted by bmcgc

Most comment, few do any actual research.

The 1996 F250 SRW 4X4 with a 10,000# payload package was equipped with 13" front discs and 12x3 rear drums.

The 2021 F250 SRW 4X4 with a 10,000# payload package is equiped with F&R 14.3" discs.

My 2020 F150 with a 2049 CCC and the 6800# GVWR package has F 13.8" and R 13.3" discs.

My 2020 F150 will outbrake a 1996 F250.

If used correctly these trucks have plenty of brakes.

Specs are nice, but you know that isn't the whole story.

[bmcgc]

Originally Posted by davis2

Specs are nice, but you know that isn't the whole story.

It is the whole story. Tow ratings are there for a reason. A properly equipped and maintained vehicle with a competent driver will have no issues.

[dedobias]

To clear up one false statement I keep seeing, two axles does not permit you keep going if a tire blows. Once a tire blows, the second axle gives you a few minutes to get stopped safely. If you continue, the blown tire will shred and will do serious damage to the side of your trailer and it could take out the second tire. The remaining tire on that side is now seriously overloaded as well and will overheat and blow if you continue. You must stop as soon as a safe place can be found to change the tire and drive very slowly until you can. A good TPS system can warn you when a tire blows before it shreds and does damage. Sometimes it can warn you if a tire is losing air before it overheats and blows - but not always. Some just blow with no warning. The best TPS will also give you tire temp.

[Blazing zipp]

One of the reasons I came to this forum is that most of the folks on here are pretty nice. Maybe it's the weather or society, but this topic has drawn some serious consternation.
If someone wants to tow a 38 foot toy hauler with a 1982 F-100---have at it. Not my call or really anything I should be upset about. How about it????
Peace Brothers

[propchef]

Originally Posted by Blazing zipp

One of the reasons I came to this forum is that most of the folks on here are pretty nice. Maybe it's the weather or society, but this topic has drawn some serious consternation.
If someone wants to tow a 38 foot toy hauler with a 1982 F-100---have at it. Not my call or really anything I should be upset about. How about it????
Peace Brothers

Except that you share the road with this person.

Yes, I've learned to avoid any thread that has "tow "towing" or "capacity" in the title. Some seem to think that if you don't pull with a Peterbilt you're fit to be locked up. Mention that you pull with an SUV and watch the fun begin.

[Superslif]

Back to the original post, "Choosing a TT". If I recall you were favoring a
Coachman Apex 265RBSS. I see you were planning to do what is known as "extended stay" travel (trips longer than 4 weeks). This RV unit "appears" to have only so so storage. I notice if boon-docking, the slide has to be opened to get to the bedroom. You may find at some boon-docking spots, it's not feasible to be able to open the slide.

How well insulated is the Apex? Thermal-pane windows? Running / suspension size. Until you tow a RV trailer with a beefier suspension, you won't know what you are missing.

After owning two Aerolite products over 13 years and approximately 720 nights of travels, when we were doing our research for that "next" RV, a high quality unit was our main focus. My wish list was: "Full" wrap-a-round front cap, large fresh water, large waste tanks, Quality built cabinets, Thermal-pane windows, better insulated top to bottom, lots of storage and finally a running gear (AKA suspension) made for some gravel travel and our sometimes nasty roads.

Took us 18 months, and actually someone here on IRV2 to say check out the Arctic Fox (Northwood Mfr.) and ORV (Outdoors RV) as both are sister companies and checked all the boxes. Very stout units.

Having owned a ORV unit now for three year, with the MORyde 3000 suspension and its Monroe shocks, grease-able shackle bolts, 16" Goodyear's, it just floats down the road.

My past Aerolite's hitting an off camber bridge expansion joint, the trailer would bounce side to side till it settled down. The ORV unit, smooth as silk...not a bounce to be seen. It really starts with it's running gear. Just looking at all the suspension components compared to my Aerolite's there 2-3 times as thick in the steel used.

If one said the unit i'm looking to buy is just for your typical weekends and or a week or two family vacation in my home state, most RV units can get ya there, but a long hauler / extended stay traveler you want to put your money into what I call the non "eye candy" components of a RV unit.