Converter issue??

[TNJack60]

I have a problem. I think it may be a bad converter. I checked the battery with the travel trailer power cord disconnected and my volt meter read 12.7 volts. I then connected the power cord and checked again and i still had the same reading on the meter. Also with the battery connected I noticed that none of my 120 volt outlets worked. If you unhook the battery all of the outlets work. My trailer is a '76 or '78 model Coachmen Cadet 25' Bunkhouse that i just bought a few weeks ago. It has a Phillips Model PC-201-A-1 converter & battery charger. ( Note: I don't know why the bottom fuse is missing in the converter but according to the label it is the fused battery circuit) Thanks

[Nuge]

Your converter takes 120 Vac and converts it to 12 Vdc. You'll only have 120 Vac when plugged into shore power unless someone added an invertor (12 Vdc to 120 Vac) to your unit or if your're running a generator. The bottom fuse holder is an optional circuit not installed on your unit; notice the lack of wires on it? While part of your converter, the battery charger is probably a separate circuit in the same unit.

[Dave78Chief]

The Phillips Model PC-201-A-1 converter was one of the earliest converters produced for RV's.

1. The black wire at bottom is B+ from the battery. The red wire basicaly connects to the same post and goes inside the converter to a transfer relay.

2. The white wire (bottom center) is the B- wire from the battery.

3. The bottom unused fuse position in your converter allowed the addition of a fused battery tap point.

4. AC input is on the bottom left.

5. You have 3 seperate fused output circuits.

When 120VAC is not available battery voltage (black wire) is feed into unit via red wire then back out to the fuses via an internal relay.
When 120 VAC is available, the internal relay is energized and the converter supplies the 12VDC to the fuses. There is a linear charger circuit in the converter. This is the type of converter that can boil batteries dry.

Here is the 20amp manual: http://dave78chieftain.zxq.net/Phill...-301a-401a.pdf

The 2nd half of this next document contains internal wiring diagrams and information for all 3 Phillips models: http://dave78chieftain.zxq.net/Phill...0Converter.pdf

The battery would have no connection to the 120VAC circuits. Disconnecting the battery should not make the 120VAC circuits work. Like Nuge said, the only way the battery would have an impact to 120AC is if someone rewired the trailer to use an inverter which was not an option in the 70's.

Dave

[TNJack60]

Thanks guys, I know the converter converts 120v ac to 12 volts dc. What I was saying ( or trying to say anyway) is that when my battery is connected up like its suppose to be and my trailer is plugged in to an electrical 120 volt outlet as well my battery isn't charging. Also I have a tv, dvd player, fridge etc. that runs off 120 volt ac. When my battery is connected and I have the trailer power cord connected to 120 volt ac, my wall outlets where i plug my tv etc. into get no power. If i disconnect the battery with the power cord connected all my 120 volt ac outlets work.

[TNJack60]

Ok guys just rechecked it again and its working now except the converter is not charging the battery. Earlier when i checked it with the battery connected and the power cord connected the tv wouldn't come on. I just now unplugged the power cord an the re-plugged it back up and everything is working except the charging part. Guess its time for a new converter. Any suggestion on brand/ part # of a good replacement. Thanks again.

[Dave78Chief]

I understand what you are saying.
That converter is designed to always put out 13.7 - 13.8 Volts DC when 120VAC is available. The only thing I can think of is the charging portion of the converter is loading down 120VAC circuit when the battery is connected. Battery could be bad causing a very large drain. Is it no 120VAC voltage or actually low 120VAC voltage? Point being is the converter excessively holding down the 120VAC voltage.

Dave
PS You posted while I was composing. This may not fit your new situation.

[Dave78Chief]

For you that is not as simple as a new converter. The Phillips converter had everything built into it. You will need both a distribution panel and converter. In todays market they are basically seperate units. Additionally, todays distribution units typically have both AC and DC distribution built in. When I upgraded from an older configuration I used a PD500 AC/DC Distribution panel with a PD9200 Series converter:



Dave

[TNJack60]

Thanks Dave, it appears to be working now as it should other than the charging part. My battery is brand new and showing 12.6 volts now across the battery terminals and thats with or without the power cord plugged in so its not charging. I can live with that for now until i can get a new converter because I have a generator anyway and can charge the battery as needed when I have the trailer away from a power source in the boonies. I am gonna get an extra battery or 2 and I have an inverter that I will be using for the tv and such when no electrical power source is around and I dont wanna use the generator.

[colin smith]

many thanks for the pc401-a01 converter manuals

[Raden]

Sorry. Dont mean to revive a dead thread but.. I really need some help with that converter
you are possibly still using. I purchased the same converter and someone has been doing some rewiring. Now when you plug in the converter.. it reverses the 12v polarity. I have no idea why you would want that but need to restore it to factory. Any chance you could open that converter and take a picture for me?

[Dave78Chief]

Picture of his Phillips converter is already in post #1. Wiring connection diagram for the 3 versions of Phillips is in the link I provided earlier http://dave78chieftain.zxq.net/Phill... Converter.pdf

Dave

[Luv2go]

Originally Posted by Raden

Sorry. Dont mean to revive a dead thread but.. I really need some help with that converter
you are possibly still using. I purchased the same converter and someone has been doing some rewiring. Now when you plug in the converter.. it reverses the 12v polarity. I have no idea why you would want that but need to restore it to factory. Any chance you could open that converter and take a picture for me?

Looking at the manual Dave provided, the only way I can see the voltage would be reversed when plugged in is if the diodes 1 and 2 are reversed, so that when Relay1 is closed it would reverse the voltage on the external load connections. Relay1 is closed when you apply power to the converter. But if you reversed the diodes the battery charger section would not work either, so I'm confused.

As Dave said these old converters are not very good, if you can afford it I would do something like Dave has done with the PDD converter with the Charge wizard or an Iota converter with IQ4.

Looking at the OP's pictures, you should be able to wire the new converter into your existing fuse panel by removing the Blue and Red wires from the left side of the fuses, which would disconnect the Phillips converter and wire the (-) lead to the large lug the white terminal goes to (wire in parallel with the existing white wire) (+) lead to both places where you removed the Blue and Red wires.

Also, make sure to disconnect the power to the Phillips converter, which I believe is connected at the two Red wire nuts in the lower left of the picture. You will need to determine which wires come from the power source with a tester or DMM (carefully, 120V can kill) and remove them at the breaker box, insulate them (I just screw the wire nuts back on) or use them to power your new converter.

You can also gut the innards of the Phillips converter (the transformer, components, wiring and any circuit boards) if you want to save some weight.

You'll have the benefits of a modern converter which will quickly charge your batteries and not boil them if the pot on the Phillips is set wrong (and with my old Magnetek, even if it was set right it would drift and overcharge the batteries).

[Raden]

Originally Posted by Dave78Chief

Picture of his Phillips converter is already in post #1. Wiring connection diagram for the 3 versions of Phillips is in the link I provided earlier 404 Page Not Found!

Dave

Thanks Dave.
Caught those links already

I was more refering to actually opening the unit from the top and snapping a pic.
The side ( post 1 ) doesn't help me much

[Dave78Chief]

Only pic I know of