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04-30-2009, 02:52 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Auburn, CA, Havasu, AZ & Mulege, BCS
Posts: 5,372
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Jak- Your converter charges all the time, and is an older design that only provides for one voltage out to the battery. Modern chargers have 3 stages of charge that go to a "float" charge voltage when they sense a full charge. Earlier in this thread the term "battery boiler" was used; the scrivener was referring to the one-rate-doesn't-fit-all-very-well problem of single stage chargers as they tend to cook the battery if not well babysat.
If you put a cut-off switch, make sure the battery still powers the coach. There may only be two wires between the converter & the battery, with circuits fed thru a fuse panel within or off the converter, so that cutting off the battery from constant charge also cuts off the power to the coach.
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Alpine: The Ultimate DIY'er Project
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04-30-2009, 03:20 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Walnut Creek Ca USA
Posts: 836
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Those older linear units like the Magnatec you have are single stage chargers. They are hard on batteries. Firstly they are not well filtered so the tend to add AC ripple into a DC circuit. That, by itself, is not all that bad but when you couple the noise that introduces on sensitive things like radio and cd players, as well as the single stage charger, you are better off replacing that with an Iota or PD 45 amp converter. If you leave your rig plugged in all the time, it will boil your batteries and eventually kill them.
I would replace it but I'm that way. You may just want to pull the fuse so you have no power draw from your batteries, and after 3 days unplug your trailer from shore power. Then go out to the trailer every month or so and plug it back in for a day or two just to keep your battery topped off. With a single stage charger you always need to check your electrolyte level and replace the water boiled off. Batteries stored at less then 100% charge shortens considerably their life expectantcy and boiling the batteries is even worse because it often exposes the plates and sulfate forms The newer electronic converters also put out all their amps as a battery charger if no power is being drawn from it for something else, while yours probably produces in the neighborhood of 10 amps for charging. This means a substantially shorter charge time on depleted batteries. Having a 3 stage charger allows you to keep your rig plugged in always and it will maitain your batteries without fear of destroying them. That is your choice.
For information purposes only check here:
PROGRESSIVE DYNAMICS INTELI POWER 45 AMP RV CONVERTER - eBay (item 130301733997 end time May-01-09 17:04:33 PDT)
If this link does not function look in Ebay Motors "RV converter". I bought there an 80 amp PD converter with a 3 stage charger built in and installed it in my large 5th wheel a month ago with #1 cables because of the greater amp load. I like it and saved some green over a dealer.
-Paul R. Haller-
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04-30-2009, 06:32 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Texas Boomers Club
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Somewhere in the lower 48
Posts: 2,306
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I'm glad you figured it out.  Do you thin that jumper wire was a fuse at some time and the previous owner put in a jumper instead of a replacement fuse?  Just food for thought.
my first 5er had a single stage converter. I forget the brand but they sold a module called Intelli-Charge (or something like that). It plugged into a jack on the converter and was supposed to control the charge so as not to "boil" the battery. Not really sure if it ever worked the way they said. I traded the trailer a year later.
If you can upgrade the converter, go with a new model that is a 3 stage converter.
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Fulltiming since 2008 and loving it
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05-04-2009, 05:39 AM
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#18
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: UpState SC
Posts: 43
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Hi jakj1234
The Magnetex 7345is a single stage charger. It will boil the electrolyte so the battery cell levels need regular attention.
I replaced mine with an Intellipower 9260 and have not needed to add water in the 2 years of service since. There are examples of the conversion at Best Converter.
I would suggest put aside some bread and do the replacement when ever you are ready. You will be pleased with the results.
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'08 Titanuim 28E33SA #458, Husky16K, XM Roady2, PD9260. 400W Solar, 4 6V GC jars, '04 3500 Ram 5.9 DRW, Gauges, F'Tank Mods, Aux Tank/t'box, BrakeSmart, Cobra CB (19), XM Direct.
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05-04-2009, 08:30 AM
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#19
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Senior Member
Damon Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 24,024
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Just re-reading this thread... Re that jumper wire.. On he Magna-junk converter/power panels there are actually two separate 12 volt systems... I mentioned earlier that the converter powers some stuff directly and a different section charges the battery.. Some stuff, however, needs clean DC (Radios for example) so the fuse panel has two sections, One is ALWAYS hooked to the battery, the other switches to/from battery/converter when you plug in or unplug
It appears the previous owner jumpered these two sections
The transfer relay is likley toast
Now: the next question is what should you do about it.
I won't even try to answer that long distance.. As I said above, if I had one of those I would consider a 3-stage converter replacement from Best Converter. That's because a good converter can pay for itself by making your batteries last many years
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