Dedicated 20amp Outlet

[Papahoosh]

Has anyone installed a dedicated 20amp outlet to take advantage of additional 20amp that campground provide.
If you have, where you installed the “Inlet” and “Outlet”.

RVGeek has a step-by-step video but that is for Motorhome RVs.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w1ZO5RxKoq8

[MisterT]

We've used the GFCI 15 or 20a outlet many times at certain campgrounds where only 30a service is provided, but I've never seen the need to try to make a 'permanent' installation for it, I just plug in a extension cord and run it into the coach where I need it, or in some cases, when in frigid temps, it's for a small heater in the wet bay.

I can see where you might would rather have something more permanent if you are parked for and extensive time in colder weather, especially if it is an 'easy' run between the outside connection and the inside outlet.

[vsheetz]

Use the 20a out sometimes. For outside stuff usually. Lighted holiday decorations, etc. If freezing temps plug in extension cord for heaters in wet bay and similar areas.

But have not made it permanent.

I would not be surprised if some campgrounds have the 30a and 20a wired together so no capacity increase. My home setup I did this way - but not needed ordered to add capacity.

[Bob_C]

I have 2.....one for heater, the other for standby, mounted to the slide, and the main one mounted just below the land line

[Nut4speed]

I added one to my trailer.
I got a 15amp power strip (breaker protected) with a 12ga cord, took it apart and removed the cord, drilled a small hole at the back corner of our slide through the floor (this area is still exposed even with the slide all the way in and easy to reach and plug in once the slide is out) ran the loose wire end of the cord back up through the hole in the floor, wired it all back up and mounted it on the side of booth under the table. I left about 4" of the cord dangling out the slide and put a cover over it when not in use.
Now I can run 3 space heaters at once (for those really cold nights) or even the toaster, coffee maker, AC, and electric water heater all at once (which is common in the morning) in the summer time.
This setup is probably technically not "up to code" but I trust it to not overheat or catch fire over any of the cheesy outlets installed in my trailer.

[RPr]

In the last four years, I have only needed more than 30 amps once. We often get by with just 15 amps.

If I did needed more I would use an extension cord.

In answer the question, because of the layout of my trailer, I can reach an outside walls easily behind the access panels. My choice would be to mount a receptacle on the outside wall, nearest the fuse box and pick up the extra breaker slots.

[MtCamper]

Yes, I do not like the way RVs are wired. If you take apart a standard RV outlet, you will see most are wired via a stab connector, like a 110 volt version of those blue connectors you use to splice in a 12 volt taillight. I question if they will stand up to a constant 1500 watt load. I added a dedicated outlet for our camper that we use for the portable electric heater we carry. I installed a male plug in to the outlet and wired it with just enough wire to reach the outed edge of our access door. I run a 20' 12 gauge ext cord from there to the pedestal and plug it in along with our 30 amp plug. If we used a high load (1500) electric appliance in our kitchen, I would have put an additional outlet on that circuit.

[wa8yxm]

I have indeed. Two different paths (Old and new don't use old som much)

Old was for a space heater. basically a dedicated extension cord, that is all. The new is a bit more complex

There used to be a company.. PSRV.. Sold an "Adapter" that let you break out (Means disconnnect from the motor home not remove or anything like that) one Air Conditioner (usually the rear) and power it 100% independent of the rest of the RV, that way you did NOT trip the park GFCI.

The PSRV system consisted of a 20 amp "Pigtail Cord (the outlet end of an extension cord) An INLET, and a 20 amp circui9t breaker

You "Cut" the power line to teh rear A/C (Disconnect at some point)
and wired a 12ga line from there to the pigtail on the PSRV adapter

The inlet was already connected to the circuit breaker and you ran a 123ga back from there to the "Cut point" and connected that to the power line to the rear A/C.

I also spliced in a 20 amp outlet at this point.. My THinking is I may need HEAT or Air Conditioner. but both at teh same time (Which woudl trip the breaker) is doubtful.

On 50 amps (this week) the 12ga "outlet" connects to the inlet and everythign operates as designed.

On 30 amps... I use a 12ga Extension cord to connect to the park's 20 amp outlet as well.

[L.C.Gray]

Yes, I put in an auxiliary feed to augment my regular 30A feed. I call it the "dedicated blow dryer circuit", but we also us it to run a 2nd A/C and additional electric heat via the 2nd A/C unit in the winter.

I used a Motor Base on the outside feeding a GFCI inside.

[luvnlife219]

Have not installed a dedicated outlet but when we had our Winnebago Sprinter a couple of campgrounds had low voltage that our Progressive protector would not let through. Hot summers in Florida with everyone’s a/c pumping. Where our voltmeter showed 104 with regular shore power, hooking into the 20 amp with adapter showed 115-120. With load shedding we could run air without worry of frying compressor. Selfishly didn’t share this info as the 20 amp would probably have tanked.

[60sumtin]

That video title is what I'd call click bait. An extra plugin is a secret weapon? Really?

I've thought about it but I've ever come across a time I really needed it. I find it pretty easy to just unplug the other appliance if I think I might trip a breaker.

[chaps2018]

I installed one of these on a previous rig. ParkPower 15A, 20A, 30A & 50A Power Inlets https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NV0V8C..._CwWGAb45D9QPF

It is easy and water tight. Used a hole saw on the fiberglass wall.

As others have posted above, I wired a 12ga GFCI extension cord to it, routed the outlet cord to where I needed it inside.

Nice thing about the bulkhead connector is that it is easy to hook/unhook from the outside only when you need it. I used a STD outdoor extension cord to connect it to the power pedestal.

[MtCamper]

"60sumptin:I've thought about it but I've ever come across a time I really needed it. I find it pretty easy to just unplug the other appliance if I think I might trip a breaker."

You should have no concerns with your rig. It is Canada certified and I believe that means the electric is different. My point is a high amp draw in the US wired RVs may cause excess heat build up if it is used for a long time. That's why I put in a separate outlet for our electric heater. Short time use like a blow dryer shouldn't be a problem. Just my opinion based on my WAG.

[Cumminsfan]

I can slip a 120V cord up thru the bottom of the slide where the floor meets the slide edge and use that for our portable heater. Adding a heater specific plug outlet is on my short list for the spring when the RV cover comes off.