Do I need pipe heating pads?

[nicky8668]

I’m retrofitting furrion heating pads to my tanks in order to camp in winter. I wonder if I would also need the pipe heating pads. It looks like many trailers with oem heating pads don’t heat the pipe, like grand design. Anyone has experience with tank heat pad only? I don’t expect anything in single digit temperature.

[tuffr2]

What area of the country and at what elevation? If in Tennessee I say no pipe heating pads. If in Maine you will need all the heating pads plus a bed heating pad.

I see you are registered in Hershey Pennsylvania. That area might get bitter cold. I grew up between Johnston and Altoona at an elevation of 2,500'. It gets plenty cold. I would say you do want to add pipe heating pads the best you can.

[Dave Pelletier]

the tank heating pads are used by the OEM's so you can tow with fresh water in your tank when driving in freezing temps; I don't believe they are intended for use when parked though some people do it. The problem is that the factory FW heat pads do nothing for the pipes, valves and black/grey tanks....which is why most "4 seasons" rated trailers have the tank area heated by the furnace.

Assuming your trailer does not have heated and enclosed tanks and you are adding pads to the tanks and will have shore power, then yes, you could add heat tracing to the pipes and insulate them.....whether you need to or not will depend on usage, construction and ambient temps.

Dave

[TXiceman]

Heating pads are not the only thing you need for winter camping in freezing weather. Yo will also need to run the furnace to keep thee piping from freezing.

Ken

[Persistent]

Please specify year, make, and model of travel trailer you are using for better advice.

Any exposed water containing device will freeze solid in Pennsylvania. PEX tubing can survive freezing, but will not function until thawed. Valves, fittings, check valves, flexible hose, and other fixtures usually will be damaged if they freeze.

Even a TT with belly cover may not protect pipes from freezing. The cover must be sealed, insulated, and heated.

My Kodiak Cub was advertised as "All Season" with "heated and enclosed under belly". The kitchen water pipe froze in less than 4 hours when temperature dropped from 34 degrees to 29 degrees.

The dealer I bought the TT from spent $2500 sealing and insulating the under belly. He also installed three tank heaters.

I spent an additional two years and more money re-configuring the propane furnace system to keep the belly above 32 degrees and keeping the water pump from freezing. I also insulated the tank drains and dump valves.

The water pump was cracked. Keystone said it must be my fault and that in any case, freeze damage was not covered by warranty.

With three years of part time work and about $3000 I have camped in 17 degree weather and successfully dumped tanks afterwards.

I wish you good luck and happy trails ahead!

[nicky8668]

Originally Posted by Dave Pelletier

the tank heating pads are used by the OEM's so you can tow with fresh water in your tank when driving in freezing temps; I don't believe they are intended for use when parked though some people do it. The problem is that the factory FW heat pads do nothing for the pipes, valves and black/grey tanks....which is why most "4 seasons" rated trailers have the tank area heated by the furnace.

Assuming your trailer does not have heated and enclosed tanks and you are adding pads to the tanks and will have shore power, then yes, you could add heat tracing to the pipes and insulate them.....whether you need to or not will depend on usage, construction and ambient temps.

Dave

Yeah. I keep antifreeze in all water lines until I hit camp. I wired three pads directly to an AC-DC transformer and I only hook it up to the shore power. And dewinterize it at the campsite. Then winterize it again once we leave camp. I guess as long as I usually keep the rv temp 75 and above.

[nicky8668]

It’s a 2016 coachmen clipper 17bh. Pretty small unit so I can keep inside very hot with an electric space heater. It does have an open belly. I had three pads wired to a DC transformer and will only use 120V shore power for those. My plan is to keep the rv winterized and dewinterize them at camp after I’m hooked up with shore power. Then rewinterize the unit before I unhook the unit. I guess I’ll get a pair of pipe heater just in case.