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TralrVirgin · 01-25-2022, 01:44 PM

Hello all, hope your all doing well and staying safe. So I’m having a fridge issue and I’m hoping someone might have an idea to help. It’s a Dometic RM 2501 gas/electric and it’s old (30 years ish). I’ve never tried the gas side, I’ve been using the electric side since I bought the unit, about 2 years. Worked fine but crapped out a week ago. Happened during a cold snap (-20c), I don’t know if that has any relation. Checked the breaker, sure enough breaker labeled “portable appliances” was tripped. Reset that, and all the other breakers, still no good. The fuses on my dc/dc converter all look good. Checked the back panel, Checked there is 12v going to it, yes. Other then that I don’t know what else to check back there.

Read the manual for it online but couldn’t find any troubleshooting guide for the electrical side, or any other relavant info online.

I know some of you may say just chuck the old thing, but I’m hoping there’s an easy fix or part replacement to keep the old girl chugging.

I’ll attach some pics of the back side if that helps thanks!

TralrVirgin

wolfe10 · 01-25-2022, 02:05 PM

Have you checked the 120 VAC outlet the refrigerator is plugged into for power?

Have not worked on our model refrigerator, but it is common to have a fuse on the PC board for the 120 VAC.

You could also check for 120 VAC at the connection to the heating element.

DavidEM · 01-25-2022, 03:00 PM

Does the control panel light up? If not, that means you are not getting DC power.

David

Tomahawk · 01-26-2022, 12:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wolfe10

Have you checked the 120 VAC outlet the refrigerator is plugged into for power?

Have not worked on our model refrigerator, but it is common to have a fuse on the PC board for the 120 VAC.

+1
I have a much newer model but when I got it the condensation drain was inside the access door. Condensation dripped on the electronics and shorted it out. An old school glass fuse blew right there. I had power at the 120 outlet the fridge was plugged into. I followed the power and saw the fuse. Replaced the fuse and back in business. No issues since. I fixed the condensation line.

I'd guess something else because it would be odd to blow a fuse and trip the breaker. If the breaker goes first, no more power to blow the fuse and if the fuse goes first no where for the power to flow to trip the breaker. Theoretically possible for both to go at the same time just really low odds.

MCCOHENS · 01-26-2022, 06:02 AM

Strange things can happen at -20C, wait until it gets above freezing and try it again. If it has power but still won't work pitch it. Will cost more to fix(if you can get the parts) than a replacement.

TralrVirgin · 01-26-2022, 01:59 PM

Thanks all for the replies. Did some more digging, disconnected the heater element for the boiler, should be about 40 ohms, I got 0. Got one ordered, fingers crossed that will do the trick.

TralrVirgin

TralrVirgin · 01-30-2022, 12:57 PM

Yup, fridge is chugging along again, nice and cold. If anyone runs into this and you’ve checked breakers and fuses, check the resistance of your heater element and compare to spec. Cheers