08-11-2020, 11:47 AM
Join Date: Mar 2020
Location: Leander, Texas
Gas Strut Replacement on Dometic "Weather Pro" 9100 awning
One of the gas springs ("struts") on the awning on our 2017 Winnebago Micro-Minnie gave out last month, and what with COVID-19, trade issues, and supply disruptions at Dometic, this part is virtually Unobtanium through Dometic (or anywhere else) referencing their part numbers (3310555.010 and 3108392.139). No one, anywhere, has them except at exorbitant prices, if you can find them at all.
We finally found replacements. My wife did a search on eBay for "3310555.010" and came up with a replacement from a seller called "strut-your-stuff-here". This seller gets a 99.9% positive rating on around 2,000 reviews. The gas strut is labeled with the name "Nitro-Prop Strut and Spring", part number NP-REP-WP-9100. The cost was $25 plus $16 shipping. We bought one, installed it, and it's exactly the right size and works perfectly. How long it will last remains to be seen, but we're OK for now.
A few tips on replacing this gas spring:
The use of a wood shim for this job is easy on the paint on the inside of your top strut. The job isn't difficult at all if you get your shim thickness just right
- Remove only the top pin holding the loop end of the strut in place - not the bottom one (or both), as some YouTube videos recommend.
- The strut will unscrew from both loop ends, so it can be removed leaving the bottom loop end and pin, next to the trailer body, in place.
- Fashion a wood shim, the width of the inner channel in the top strut into which the top of the gas spring is fastened and about 1/4" thick. You may have to make several to get the thickness just right. Put your shim into the channel in the top strut, the loop end of the gas spring centered against the shim, and hand-press them into place so that the holes in the upper strut align with the loop end on the gas spring. You may need to make several shims to get the thickness just right so that the holes line up and the 3/8" pin goes in smoothly. The force of the spring will make a dent in your soft-wood shim as it goes in, enough to keep it centered and the shim and the strut loop-end will move together. It might help to wax or grease the top of the shim, where it slides against the top strut, so that it will move more easily.
- Replace the push-nut on the pin. You can get an assortment of these at most auto parts stores.
- Knock your shim out with a wood block and hammer.
. A table saw, or a friend who has one, is very useful for making just the right thickness shim. You'll probably need to experiment and make several before you get just the right thickness.
If this doesn't make total sense, just take a look at the mechanism and it will become obvious.