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Old 02-08-2020, 06:02 PM   #1
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Has Anyone Ever Removed Forest River Trailer Underlayment?

I recently bought my Rockwood trailer. I don't currently have a reason to remove the underlayment from the bottom . . . but sooner or later . . . I'm going to want to make some repairs or modify something under there. That's where all the pipes and wiring are.

If anyone's ever done this, I'm curious as to how you replaced it. Did you use gorilla tape or something else? Perhaps you figured out a formula for cutting it at strategic places so that it could be easily reattached?

Even better, maybe you know of a source that shows diagrams of how stuff is laid out under there?
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Old 02-08-2020, 08:03 PM   #2
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The material you’re referring to is called Coroplast. It can usually be found in sign shops. If access is needed, a 3 sided access panel is probably best, with the uncut side toward the front. I was able to screw into wood with fender washers. Others have used sealants, Gorilla tape, or Eternabond. Proper prep is huge.
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Old 02-09-2020, 08:10 AM   #3
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They make a repair tape expressly for the purpose of putting Coroplast back together. It's similar to woven plastic tarp material. The dealer used this stuff to secure the cut panel when they fixed a brake wire connection on my new Coachmen. Three years later, it is still in place.

https://www.amazon.com/Mobile-Belly-.../dp/B00BJ5SPO8
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Old 02-13-2020, 07:19 PM   #4
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I dropped the coroplast on my 2016 Keystone Outback 220URB to figure out why the heat was so dismal.
What I saw made me sell it and buy an Outdoors RV.
Be ready for a shock when you do drop it.
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Old 02-13-2020, 07:30 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BPTS View Post
I dropped the coroplast on my 2016 Keystone Outback 220URB to figure out why the heat was so dismal.
What I saw made me sell it and buy an Outdoors RV.
Be ready for a shock when you do drop it.
What did you see?
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Old 02-14-2020, 06:04 AM   #6
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If you're going to post a response, how about less drama! Don't waste our time.
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Old 02-14-2020, 07:11 AM   #7
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Bpts, really?
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Old 02-14-2020, 08:46 AM   #8
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Yeah, really.
Testy lil bunch aint Y'all?

We had a 2016 Outback 220URB. It was a decent unit for a 1st trailer, no major issues. I have owned various truck campers through the years, fixing them up and modifying them as I saw fit. I rebuilt the cab over section on a 2002 Lance camper that had been driven under a canopy so I am very familiar with construction and support systems for a camper/trailer.
I knew it wasn't perfect but didn't see any insurmountable issues.
We took it to Estes Park in September and it dropped down to 30ish degrees at night. The heater ran constantly and the trailer never got over 60 degrees that night. I noticed there was barely any airflow out of the vents.
When I got it home I dropped the coroplast "basement" cover and was appalled by what I saw.
Trash, chunks of wire, wood cutouts.
The heat ducting consisted of about 60' of the really cheap dryer vent hose snaked all over the basement. Half of it was crushed and some had big cuts.
The runs to the 2 heat vents were only about 4 and 8 feet from the furnace. $20 worth of metal ducting made for a much better system.
But as I spent more time under it I became much more dismayed. The wiring was an absolute mess, yards of excess wire just lying on the coroplast, numerous bare wires showing at splices, pinched wires, the 12v positive was sandwiched between the frame and the fresh water tank, basically crushed.
The main beams of the frames are piecemeal weldments of probably 11 gauge sheet steel and quite a few of the welds looked like they were done by Stevie Wonder and Ray Charles. Just horrible.
Then I noticed the fastening system for the cabinetry to the floors- deck screws. Now if the floor was 3/4" plywood ok, but the floor on an Ultra Light is a sandwich, 1/4 Luan, 1 1/2" foam and another layer of 1/4 Luan. No screwholding ability whatsoever. There were screw heads that had been driven right through the ply into the foam. I had visions of going down a Forest Service road for 1/2 mile, pulling into the campsite only to find the cabinetry on the floor.
Out of the 20 or so bolts that secure the trailer body to the frame 6 had no nuts, one was bent at a 90 degree angle to the frame almost in an attempt to secure the body and all of the nuts that were present took at least 3 complete turns to become reasonably tight.
I totally lost all confidence in the unit.
Buttoned it back up, hauled it 150 miles and traded it in on a 2019 Outdoors RV 24RLS.

There is no comparison between the 2.

But I guess Indiana meth heads working is better than them stealing the copper pipes from vacant houses.


Is we more gooder now?
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Old 02-14-2020, 11:11 AM   #9
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I think some of the mfg's are in such hurry to complete the units they dont give a crap on things that are covered up.
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Old 02-14-2020, 12:09 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mokurt View Post
I think some of the mfg's are in such hurry to complete the units they dont give a crap on things that are covered up.
I understand this entirely, but it is no excuse for poor and at times dangerous craftsmanship.
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Old 02-15-2020, 04:38 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BPTS View Post
Yeah, really.
Testy lil bunch aint Y'all?

We had a 2016 Outback 220URB. It was a decent unit for a 1st trailer, no major issues. I have owned various truck campers through the years, fixing them up and modifying them as I saw fit. I rebuilt the cab over section on a 2002 Lance camper that had been driven under a canopy so I am very familiar with construction and support systems for a camper/trailer.
I knew it wasn't perfect but didn't see any insurmountable issues.
We took it to Estes Park in September and it dropped down to 30ish degrees at night. The heater ran constantly and the trailer never got over 60 degrees that night. I noticed there was barely any airflow out of the vents.
When I got it home I dropped the coroplast "basement" cover and was appalled by what I saw.
Trash, chunks of wire, wood cutouts.
The heat ducting consisted of about 60' of the really cheap dryer vent hose snaked all over the basement. Half of it was crushed and some had big cuts.
The runs to the 2 heat vents were only about 4 and 8 feet from the furnace. $20 worth of metal ducting made for a much better system.
But as I spent more time under it I became much more dismayed. The wiring was an absolute mess, yards of excess wire just lying on the coroplast, numerous bare wires showing at splices, pinched wires, the 12v positive was sandwiched between the frame and the fresh water tank, basically crushed.
The main beams of the frames are piecemeal weldments of probably 11 gauge sheet steel and quite a few of the welds looked like they were done by Stevie Wonder and Ray Charles. Just horrible.
Then I noticed the fastening system for the cabinetry to the floors- deck screws. Now if the floor was 3/4" plywood ok, but the floor on an Ultra Light is a sandwich, 1/4 Luan, 1 1/2" foam and another layer of 1/4 Luan. No screwholding ability whatsoever. There were screw heads that had been driven right through the ply into the foam. I had visions of going down a Forest Service road for 1/2 mile, pulling into the campsite only to find the cabinetry on the floor.
Out of the 20 or so bolts that secure the trailer body to the frame 6 had no nuts, one was bent at a 90 degree angle to the frame almost in an attempt to secure the body and all of the nuts that were present took at least 3 complete turns to become reasonably tight.
I totally lost all confidence in the unit.
Buttoned it back up, hauled it 150 miles and traded it in on a 2019 Outdoors RV 24RLS.

There is no comparison between the 2.

But I guess Indiana meth heads working is better than them stealing the copper pipes from vacant houses.


Is we more gooder now?
You know you may or may not be correct in all that you say sometimes drama makes a so much better story. As I have always said some good some bad in RV manufacturing , same in any manufactured product. Now on yo my reply to your "meth heads" in Indiana remark that is one of those glittering generalities remarks that are totally off the wall. I believe if you check most of the equipment in your proudly made in Le Grande Oregon product well probably based out of Indiana, so you still have their "terrible" stuff in it. I do believe there are products as in any line that are considered more affordable and for cost savings they do quickest way possible. I had a Gulfstream product not a problem one even after 30,000 miles of being towed all over dirt toads included. Had a Four Winds and a few other brands that I kept up on the maintenance and had the usual RV fixes but nothing catastrophic. As I was saying insulting the production line workers and people of Indiana was a bit over the top in my opinion, for one they are mostly Amish, number two they are not even buyers of RV so you statement just was totally wrong. Don't know the statistics but Le Grande may or may not have more meth heads than say oh Nappannee Indiana. There now I feel "more gooder."
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Old 02-15-2020, 05:46 AM   #12
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I had a repair done on my 5th wheel. They cut 3 sides to drop down a 2.5' section to fix a broke pipe...my fault. They then used tape to re-secure the colorplast.

If you want to take all the colorplast off to look at everything I think that would be a hard job unless you had help putting it back on. I believe you might also find a thin insulation layer.
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Old 02-15-2020, 06:15 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BPTS View Post
Yeah, really.
Testy lil bunch aint Y'all?

We had a 2016 Outback 220URB. It was a decent unit for a 1st trailer, no major issues. I have owned various truck campers through the years, fixing them up and modifying them as I saw fit. I rebuilt the cab over section on a 2002 Lance camper that had been driven under a canopy so I am very familiar with construction and support systems for a camper/trailer.
I knew it wasn't perfect but didn't see any insurmountable issues.
We took it to Estes Park in September and it dropped down to 30ish degrees at night. The heater ran constantly and the trailer never got over 60 degrees that night. I noticed there was barely any airflow out of the vents.
When I got it home I dropped the coroplast "basement" cover and was appalled by what I saw.
Trash, chunks of wire, wood cutouts.
The heat ducting consisted of about 60' of the really cheap dryer vent hose snaked all over the basement. Half of it was crushed and some had big cuts.
The runs to the 2 heat vents were only about 4 and 8 feet from the furnace. $20 worth of metal ducting made for a much better system.
But as I spent more time under it I became much more dismayed. The wiring was an absolute mess, yards of excess wire just lying on the coroplast, numerous bare wires showing at splices, pinched wires, the 12v positive was sandwiched between the frame and the fresh water tank, basically crushed.
The main beams of the frames are piecemeal weldments of probably 11 gauge sheet steel and quite a few of the welds looked like they were done by Stevie Wonder and Ray Charles. Just horrible.
Then I noticed the fastening system for the cabinetry to the floors- deck screws. Now if the floor was 3/4" plywood ok, but the floor on an Ultra Light is a sandwich, 1/4 Luan, 1 1/2" foam and another layer of 1/4 Luan. No screwholding ability whatsoever. There were screw heads that had been driven right through the ply into the foam. I had visions of going down a Forest Service road for 1/2 mile, pulling into the campsite only to find the cabinetry on the floor.
Out of the 20 or so bolts that secure the trailer body to the frame 6 had no nuts, one was bent at a 90 degree angle to the frame almost in an attempt to secure the body and all of the nuts that were present took at least 3 complete turns to become reasonably tight.
I totally lost all confidence in the unit.
Buttoned it back up, hauled it 150 miles and traded it in on a 2019 Outdoors RV 24RLS.

There is no comparison between the 2.

But I guess Indiana meth heads working is better than them stealing the copper pipes from vacant houses.


Is we more gooder now?
Nope. Start your own thread.
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Old 02-15-2020, 10:40 AM   #14
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Nope. Start your own thread.

Why start his own thread??? You might want to go back and read the entire thread.
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