Free 7 Day Trial RV GPS App RV Trip Planner Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Free 7 Day Trial ×
RV Trip Planning Discussions

Go Back   iRV2 Forums > TRAVEL TRAILER, 5th WHEEL & TRUCK CAMPER FORUMS > Travel Trailer Discussion
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on iRV2
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 05-20-2021, 07:49 AM   #15
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 55
Quote:
Originally Posted by IC2 View Post
When I replaced the black and front gray tank valves had to actually jack the line back about a 1/2" with a ratchet strap. Looking at the OPs photos, not sure if that would work. In that case, would actually cut the assembly out and either use glue on ABS (not PVC) flanges or, even better, Fernco rubber couplings.
https://www.fernco.com/products/flex...tock-couplings

https://www.homedepot.com/b/Plumbing...toreSelection=
For me, I don't think the risk of cracking a tank is worth spreading it mechanically, the tanks would be taking all of the force.

The rubber fitting would solve everything except it would not be as rigid. I take this thing about 80km down unmaintained logging roads to get to where we camp, so needless to say it would experience a ton of movement.

I think I may be resigned to just install a glue on valve with tabs at the end where the hose fits on. My tabs are already broken off, I fixed that at the beach last year with 4 screws with tall heads, so at least I would be repairing something properly!

In practice I would get an initial shot of grey water when I went to drain the black, but the grey tank would still be full after the black is drained since it is down to just a slow drip now.

I have a half dozen other jobs to do before we can roll out, and this was supposed to be one of the easy ones!
Dodge75 is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 05-20-2021, 07:50 AM   #16
YC1
Senior Member
 
YC1's Avatar


 
Holiday Rambler Owners Club
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 9,394
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dodge75 View Post
That all but worked. I kept working more and more silicone spray into and got it down to a slow drip.

I'm thinking if I put the valve on the end where the hose connects, I will just have that last run after the Y full of grey water, then my sewage will go behind that and there will be plenty of grey water left to flush it all out with, since now it just drips.
The silicon may clean/clear up the gaskets over a short time. Run pure hot water into the tank and let that sit down on the valve. Put some dawn dish soap with it.

I changed my valves once at about the 6 year mark. After learning this trick they are still smooth and do not leak and we full time.
__________________
Myron & Deborah
08 HR Endeavor 40 SKQ
400 Isl, 400 HP/// Now 450 HP
2016 Ford F150 Limited V6 with Ready Brake
YC1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-20-2021, 08:18 AM   #17
IC2
Senior Member
 
IC2's Avatar


 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Upstate New York
Posts: 3,598
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dodge75 View Post
For me, I don't think the risk of cracking a tank is worth spreading it mechanically, the tanks would be taking all of the force.

The rubber fitting would solve everything except it would not be as rigid. I take this thing about 80km down unmaintained logging roads to get to where we camp, so needless to say it would experience a ton of movement.

I think I may be resigned to just install a glue on valve with tabs at the end where the hose fits on. My tabs are already broken off, I fixed that at the beach last year with 4 screws with tall heads, so at least I would be repairing something properly!

In practice I would get an initial shot of grey water when I went to drain the black, but the grey tank would still be full after the black is drained since it is down to just a slow drip now.

I have a half dozen other jobs to do before we can roll out, and this was supposed to be one of the easy ones!

If you haven't used Fernco type couplings then you might be surprised at how rigid they can be, especially the shielded version. You only remove a minimal amount of that drain pipe to maintain a pretty solid piece of tubing Also, absolute rigidity may not be your best friend over rough roads either.



To keep good valve operation, I dump a quart or so of the cheapest vegetable oil in each waste tank (less the $5/gallon at Walmart) now before the first outing of the year. I also ran the new pull cables straighter. Two finger and easy pull where it used to be a full strength hand over hand heels dug in pull before.
__________________
Dave W along with my DW, Susan and our poodlepups, Callie & Molly,2011 Ford F250 6.7 CCLB, 5er Hitch Option w/B&W Hitch,,Ride Rite air bags, 2014 Montana High Country 343RL (38')w/disc brakes
IC2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-20-2021, 08:36 AM   #18
Senior Member
 
tap4154's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2019
Posts: 1,112
Quote:
Originally Posted by IC2 View Post
If you haven't used Fernco type couplings then you might be surprised at how rigid they can be, especially the shielded version. You only remove a minimal amount of that drain pipe to maintain a pretty solid piece of tubing Also, absolute rigidity may not be your best friend over rough roads either.



To keep good valve operation, I dump a quart or so of the cheapest vegetable oil in each waste tank (less the $5/gallon at Walmart) now before the first outing of the year. I also ran the new pull cables straighter. Two finger and easy pull where it used to be a full strength hand over hand heels dug in pull before.
I was going to say the same thing, a little bit of flexibility in the drain system might be a good thing if he's traveling on logging roads. That's a great suggestion about the vegetable oil. In another thread someone suggested Thetford valve lubricant, which I purchased and put in my tanks, but the vegetable oil should probably work just as well.
tap4154 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 05-20-2021, 09:50 AM   #19
IC2
Senior Member
 
IC2's Avatar


 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Upstate New York
Posts: 3,598
Quote:
Originally Posted by tap4154 View Post
I was going to say the same thing, a little bit of flexibility in the drain system might be a good thing if he's traveling on logging roads. That's a great suggestion about the vegetable oil. In another thread someone suggested Thetford valve lubricant, which I purchased and put in my tanks, but the vegetable oil should probably work just as well.

...and is LOT less expensive!
__________________
Dave W along with my DW, Susan and our poodlepups, Callie & Molly,2011 Ford F250 6.7 CCLB, 5er Hitch Option w/B&W Hitch,,Ride Rite air bags, 2014 Montana High Country 343RL (38')w/disc brakes
IC2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-20-2021, 03:57 PM   #20
Senior Member


 
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 1,045
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dodge75 View Post
The problem is with the grey tank valve, it trickles when closed. I checked that with the pull rod disconnected to be sure, it's broken too.

I guess with the flexibile section idea it would let it flop around over the bumps, but I could just secure it all to the frame with all round or something. That's my favorite idea so far, thanks!
Mine does not flop at all. Keep in mind you want to keep the piece you cut out as short as possible. Min was dripping a little and when I tried to tighten the clamp I discovered the the rubber junction had actually slid all the way to one side, so I slid it as far as i could both directions just to make sure it was long enough. There was only about 1 inch between the ends of the plastic and the coupler was about 6" long. So with the old waste valve out, you could slide the flexible coupler all the way onto the undamaged side, cut and install the new valve so they are almost touching and then slide the rubber coupling to the middle. Tighten the clamps down tight and you only have 1/2 to 1" gap. It will be almost as sturdy as a solid piece.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Fernco-3...6-33/100372296
__________________
2006 Winnebago Journey
39K
Cat C7
amosnandy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-23-2021, 10:22 AM   #21
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 55
Quote:
Originally Posted by YC1 View Post
The silicon may clean/clear up the gaskets over a short time. Run pure hot water into the tank and let that sit down on the valve. Put some dawn dish soap with it.

I changed my valves once at about the 6 year mark. After learning this trick they are still smooth and do not leak and we full time.
I repeated your procedure 3 times ( work in lots of silicone then hot water and dawn and let it sit overnight). Today I went to check it out and the drain spout is dry as bone! Incredible! Fixed!

The spare valve and a flex coupler with clamps will be stashed with my spare parts in case it ever need repair in the field.

Thanks to everyone who offered help. This forum is the best.
Dodge75 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-23-2021, 11:40 AM   #22
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Watertown NY USA
Posts: 4,412
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dodge75 View Post
I repeated your procedure 3 times ( work in lots of silicone then hot water and dawn and let it sit overnight). Today I went to check it out and the drain spout is dry as bone! Incredible! Fixed!

The spare valve and a flex coupler with clamps will be stashed with my spare parts in case it ever need repair in the field.

Thanks to everyone who offered help. This forum is the best.
Makes you wonder how many valves have been changed needlessly.
__________________
2002 Fleetwood Storm 30H on Workhorse P32 chassis 8.1 gas.
LETMGROW is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 09-13-2021, 01:55 PM   #23
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2021
Posts: 527
Thanks for this thread, and a u-tube video or two I have watched.

My black tank dump valve has the valve stem bent. Brand new TT, but it looks like dump valves are fairly cheap. It would cost me $100 minimum to get my TT back to the dealer for repairs, since it is almost impossible to get anyone else to service a TT that was not purchased from them. I think I am going to try to replace this myself. Just need to go crawl underneath and figure out what the model number is. The geometry on my piping looks like it should be fairly easy to replace, not the kind of issues the OP was describing.

First time I pulled the dump valve, I discovered the bent valve stem. Frustrating. That one should have been caught during the dealer pre-check. Have found 3-4 other minor items that would not have been as obvious. I actually was camping at a state park near my dealer, ran over there Saturday, before I discovered the valve issue. Talked about a couple of minor issues, at least one of the issues was present on a new TT, same model as mine, on their lot. That fix was easy, took me 4 small (#6) flat washers and some RTV I had on the shelf.

The quality of the build by Forest River at least is extremely poor. As an old manufacturing engineer, I would say this is more than just a COVID issue in manufacturing. There is no quality control at all.
__________________
2020 Chevy Silverado 1500
Forest River Wildwood XLite 263BHXL
carybosse is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 09-13-2021, 02:07 PM   #24
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Los Angeles area
Posts: 1,172
Quote:
Originally Posted by carybosse View Post
There is no quality control at all.
You aren't the only one saying this. Two different neighbors were looking for new RVs and both decided to defer any purchase.

One is looking at purchasing a 10 year old Tiffin with engine problems and dropping $6K into it as being a better deal than a brand new RV of questionable quality.

And the article below showed up in his email feed a day after his visit to the local RV dealer. He told me that the dealer seemed to expect that the kitchen counter drawers had no stops on them (to prevent sliding open in a right turn).

https://www.rvtravel.com/pathetic-qu...oducing-1017b/

Mike
__________________
Semi-retired technogeek...electronics / computer / 2-way / ham radio... WA6ILQ (45+years)
1985 Fleetwood 32' Southwind (Chev P30/454/TH400), dubbed "Lazarus" by friends... I resurrected it from the dead...
AnotherMike is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-14-2021, 07:12 AM   #25
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Watertown NY USA
Posts: 4,412
Covid covid covid! The new blame name for the blame game. When you have a work force who makes more money on unemployment with generous subsidies than they can make working there will be a shortage of skilled workers or those who have pride in their workmanship. The RV industry is only one example.
__________________
2002 Fleetwood Storm 30H on Workhorse P32 chassis 8.1 gas.
LETMGROW is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 09-14-2021, 07:37 AM   #26
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2021
Posts: 527
Quote:
Originally Posted by LETMGROW View Post
Covid covid covid! The new blame name for the blame game. When you have a work force who makes more money on unemployment with generous subsidies than they can make working there will be a shortage of skilled workers or those who have pride in their workmanship. The RV industry is only one example.
That is what they lay the blame on, that and increased demand for RVs during COVID lockdowns.

I place a lot of the blame on failing to train our kids in any useful skillsets. (No, twiddling your thumbs on a game console, while a skillset, is not a useful skillset unless you are a drone pilot taking out terrorist hideouts. Very limited demand.)

When I was young, I learned how to read a voltmeter, solder a wire, and do other little electrical skills by the time I was 10 years old. By 15 years old, dad would send me out to work on the car while he slept after working a graveyard shift. Plumbing repairs was just expected. One of the first big purchases I made was a nice set of Craftsmen tools from Sears. Knowing how to trouble shoot a problem is a skill that can be cultivated. When my first car, a Ford, had issues, I read the emissions section of the service manual several times before I went out and solved the problem. So, it is not all just hammer and wrench skills, it takes a full blown approach.

Sure, when I was a kid, only the boys learned these skills. Girls learned to cook and sew, although that was really ending by my time in high school. But they also took away all of the shop classes in my high school as well.

Frankly, both girls and boys should be taught these skills. These days, young ladies and even some of the more mature women I meet don't have a "man" in their lives to fix things, nothing to keep them from handling it themselves. After I introduced my wife to a ratchet, her kitchen toolbox now includes a 1/4" ratchet set along with the hammer, screwdrivers, pliers and adjustable wrench. My girls did not get their driver's license until they had swapped a tire on their car. (The middle daughter even did the first oil change on her car, but decided that was just a little too messy for her taste. )

COVID is everyone's excuse these days. The reality is, COVID is just being used to bring out policy changes and world changes that natural evolution was not allowing to happen, at least not at the pace some people wanted.

In any case, I wish I could store my TT at my house - repairs would be so much easier, with all of my tools at my fingertips.
__________________
2020 Chevy Silverado 1500
Forest River Wildwood XLite 263BHXL
carybosse is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 09-14-2021, 08:32 AM   #27
Senior Member
 
tap4154's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2019
Posts: 1,112
My black valve was trickling just a little bit, however I can turn the output connection to the point where I can actually see the blade through it. There was a little piece of toilet paper that was stuck in the groove where the blade seats, and it was holding it from completely seating. I cleaned that out, and lubed it with some vegetable oil, and it works beautifully now.

If yours can't do that, maybe you could open the valve and stick a hose up in there and just try to clean it out really well? Or use a wand like you use to clean out a water heater tank. Probably just something holding it slightly, open, and you don't need to replace the valve.
tap4154 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 09-14-2021, 09:15 PM   #28
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: Vancouver Island
Posts: 6
When I dropped my grey tank to fix a crack, I also had to take the dump valve off. When I put the tank back in place, I left the bracket bolts for the tank loose to give some play, reinstalled the valve, then tightened everything up. No issues.
__________________
2014 Laredo 292RL
2018 GMC 3500 Denali, 6.5' Box, Duramax, Andersen
JEDDIE is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
ace, replace, replacement, valve



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Bounder: Problem fitting ABCO replacement MANRV101-RF water valve to Bounder Bigfoot_ Fleetwood Owner's Forum 2 09-26-2020 03:35 PM
Looking for part number for the air dump valve connected to the "dump" on HWH control michelb Freightliner Motorhome Chassis Forum 1 05-31-2019 09:30 PM
Sewer Dump Valve Tight jimmystoys Outdoors RV Owner's Forum 22 07-23-2018 07:55 PM
Tight dump valves LI-Camper Class C Motorhome Discussions 3 11-12-2013 03:45 PM
Help--Dump valve replacement dirko Winnebago Industries Owner's Forum 6 06-16-2008 11:07 AM

» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 11:36 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.