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Old 05-19-2021, 10:04 AM   #1
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Help removing a tight fitting dump valve for replacement

Hi everyone, I have never changed one of these valves before but some research has told me I will need to create about 1/2" extra spread to clear the lips that hold the seals in place.

That is not going to be possible for me since these valves are located in a short, straight run between my 2 tanks.

I did remove the bolts from the second valve as well but that did not help.

Does anyone have any ideas for me before get out the sawzall? Or maybe cut up the valve and take it out in pieces?
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Old 05-19-2021, 01:39 PM   #2
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Hi. Cutting the valve apart might get it out but then you still have the issue of getting a new one in. It is possible that you might be able to slide an empty gray tank over a little bit to gain some room. Some of them have a little bit of play in their mounts. Might even be a bracket holding it in that can be removed to give you some room. I don't think you could slide the black tank any as the line to the toilet is rigid and the gray lines tend to move even when you don't want them to. Good luck and keep us posted.
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Old 05-19-2021, 03:14 PM   #3
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The grey tank is not budging and the mounts are not visible anywhere. It looks like cutting out a half inch of pipe is a good plan for removal and I could replace it with a coupler but I'm still figuring if that gives enough room to reinstall everything.
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Old 05-19-2021, 03:24 PM   #4
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Looks like thats what was done the last time maybe.
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Old 05-19-2021, 03:33 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dodge75 View Post
Hi everyone, I have never changed one of these valves before but some research has told me I will need to create about 1/2" extra spread to clear the lips that hold the seals in place.

That is not going to be possible for me since these valves are located in a short, straight run between my 2 tanks.

I did remove the bolts from the second valve as well but that did not help.

Does anyone have any ideas for me before get out the sawzall? Or maybe cut up the valve and take it out in pieces?
What is wrong with the valve you are trying to replace? On my old coach, the black tank valve pull cable failed. Luckily it was open. The grey tank still worked. I just put a twist on replacement at the end where the hose hooks on. So the black tank was always open to the replacement valve, but the grey tank still worked. So I could pull the new valve, dump the black, then pull the grey valve and flush out the black tank water.

Don't know if this is a possibility for you, but my experience has been trying to replace them in line they are very difficult to seal.

The other option, and I don't know if my new coach was built this way or someone changed it is to cut about 2-3 inches out, and put it back together with a rubber flexible PVC coupling. My black tank valve is in line hard plumbed like yours, but the grey tank has a rubber hose just next to the valve. The rubber hose will slide on the pipe 2-3 inches, so if ever have to replace a valve I can just slide it one direction and take everything apart.
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Old 05-19-2021, 03:38 PM   #6
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Are these electric valves? What are all the wire for?
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Old 05-19-2021, 03:41 PM   #7
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https://parts.unitedrv.com/products/...8aAsLPEALw_wcB
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Old 05-19-2021, 03:58 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by amosnandy View Post
What is wrong with the valve you are trying to replace? On my old coach, the black tank valve pull cable failed. Luckily it was open. The grey tank still worked. I just put a twist on replacement at the end where the hose hooks on. So the black tank was always open to the replacement valve, but the grey tank still worked. So I could pull the new valve, dump the black, then pull the grey valve and flush out the black tank water.

Don't know if this is a possibility for you, but my experience has been trying to replace them in line they are very difficult to seal.

The other option, and I don't know if my new coach was built this way or someone changed it is to cut about 2-3 inches out, and put it back together with a rubber flexible PVC coupling. My black tank valve is in line hard plumbed like yours, but the grey tank has a rubber hose just next to the valve. The rubber hose will slide on the pipe 2-3 inches, so if ever have to replace a valve I can just slide it one direction and take everything apart.
The problem is with the grey tank valve, it trickles when closed. I checked that with the pull rod disconnected to be sure, it's broken too.

I guess with the flexibile section idea it would let it flop around over the bumps, but I could just secure it all to the frame with all round or something. That's my favorite idea so far, thanks!
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Old 05-19-2021, 04:26 PM   #9
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Before you tear it out you might want to try a trick I learned. On the face of the valve, the skinny part that goes up and down. Drill a hole in the face close to the top edge. Poke the nozzle of a can of silicon lube into the hole and exercise the valve. Careful to not have the stuff come squirting out into your eyes. Once it is smooth just put a stainless screw into the hole and you can then keep it lubed in the future. Work a treat on my valves.
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Old 05-19-2021, 05:18 PM   #10
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Before you tear it out you might want to try a trick I learned. On the face of the valve, the skinny part that goes up and down. Drill a hole in the face close to the top edge. Poke the nozzle of a can of silicon lube into the hole and exercise the valve. Careful to not have the stuff come squirting out into your eyes. Once it is smooth just put a stainless screw into the hole and you can then keep it lubed in the future. Work a treat on my valves.
Thanks, I had better try that out!
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Old 05-19-2021, 06:44 PM   #11
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Are these electric valves? What are all the wire for?
The wires are for the tank sensors. I may end up putting one of those valves on the end.
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Old 05-19-2021, 06:47 PM   #12
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Before you tear it out you might want to try a trick I learned. On the face of the valve, the skinny part that goes up and down. Drill a hole in the face close to the top edge. Poke the nozzle of a can of silicon lube into the hole and exercise the valve. Careful to not have the stuff come squirting out into your eyes. Once it is smooth just put a stainless screw into the hole and you can then keep it lubed in the future. Work a treat on my valves.
That all but worked. I kept working more and more silicone spray into and got it down to a slow drip.

I'm thinking if I put the valve on the end where the hose connects, I will just have that last run after the Y full of grey water, then my sewage will go behind that and there will be plenty of grey water left to flush it all out with, since now it just drips.
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Old 05-20-2021, 02:20 AM   #13
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I tried to replace my valves myself a few years ago and also wasn't able to get enough play in the pipes to fit the new one, and I finally took the trailer in to a shop to have them do it. The mechanic told me that sometimes they will use ratchet straps to pull everything apart enough to get enough room.
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Old 05-20-2021, 05:41 AM   #14
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When I replaced the black and front gray tank valves had to actually jack the line back about a 1/2" with a ratchet strap. Looking at the OPs photos, not sure if that would work. In that case, would actually cut the assembly out and either use glue on ABS (not PVC) flanges or, even better, Fernco rubber couplings.
https://www.fernco.com/products/flex...tock-couplings

https://www.homedepot.com/b/Plumbing...toreSelection=
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