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Old 01-14-2018, 08:44 PM   #1
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Hot water heater?

Not sure what this is for but is it possible it's for the hot water heater. If it is how does it work? I don't have an instruction manual.Click image for larger version

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Old 01-14-2018, 08:47 PM   #2
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You are correct. The lightning bolt option will heat the water with a heating element in the tank. Use this whenever you're plugged in to a 30 amp or higher power source. The flame icon is to heat with propane. Use this whenever shore power isn't available.
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Old 01-14-2018, 09:04 PM   #3
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And you might be able to use both for quicker recovery.
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Old 01-14-2018, 09:06 PM   #4
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YES........that is the ON/OFF switches for 120V AC electric element and for the Propane heating

Lightening Bolt......120V AC
Gas Flame----Propane
FAULT Light in center


With 120V AC Power you can heat water in water heater using the electric element
No 120V AC Power you can heat water in water heater using propane gas

Propane and electric can be used at same time

Need good 12V DC Voltage to use EITHER.
DC Voltage used for heater controls..electric & propane

T-stat.....controls heating cycles---OPENS/140*F & CLOSES/110*F
ECO (Energy Cut Off---HI Temp) shuts down all heating should T-sat fail ----OPENS/180*F & CLOSES/150*F
T&P Relief Valve----last ditch safety feature---POPS OPEN/210*F--150 PSI

Post your Atwood Water Heater MODEL for more info (look for info in outside compartment)
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Old 01-15-2018, 11:27 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit View Post
YES........that is the ON/OFF switches for 120V AC electric element and for the Propane heating

Lightening Bolt......120V AC
Gas Flame----Propane
FAULT Light in center


With 120V AC Power you can heat water in water heater using the electric element
No 120V AC Power you can heat water in water heater using propane gas

Propane and electric can be used at same time

Need good 12V DC Voltage to use EITHER.
DC Voltage used for heater controls..electric & propane

T-stat.....controls heating cycles---OPENS/140*F & CLOSES/110*F
ECO (Energy Cut Off---HI Temp) shuts down all heating should T-sat fail ----OPENS/180*F & CLOSES/150*F
T&P Relief Valve----last ditch safety feature---POPS OPEN/210*F--150 PSI

Post your Atwood Water Heater MODEL for more info (look for info in outside compartment)
I hooked up the water turned on the left side (electric). Waited about an hour, turned on the hot water and it was HOT! The red light didn't come on. Is it supposed to? Here's some pics.Click image for larger version

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Old 01-15-2018, 12:07 PM   #6
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Quote:
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I hooked up the water turned on the left side (electric). Waited about an hour, turned on the hot water and it was HOT! The red light didn't come on. Is it supposed to? Here's some pics.Attachment 188844Attachment 188845
Water should have been HOT......heats to 140*F

NO the RED FAULT Light should NOT come on unless a 'fault condition' occurs

*Propane Flame FAILS to light and PROVE it lit........3 attempts then circuit board will go into 'LOCK-OUT' and trigger the FAULT Light
Reset by turning GAS On/Off Switch ----OFF/wait 30 seconds/turn back ON
Circuit board will make 3 attempts again to light/prove main flame

*ECO Trips (Energy Cut Out---HI Temp T-stat).
Opens at 180*F to shut down ALL heating (electric and/or propane) if Normal T_stat fails to open
Anytime ECO Opens it triggers FAULT Light.
ECO will self-reset when water temp drops below 150*F but you have to reset Fault Light ---turn off/wait/turn on
If ECO operates.....replace Normal t-stat cause it is NOT controlling normal heat cycles


You can use just electric to heat when you have 120V AC----slowest recovery time (6 gal/hr from initial fill with cold water)
You can use just propane to heat anytime....little faster recovery time (13 gal/hr from initial fill with cold water)
you can use electric/propane together....fastest recovery time (~18-20 gal/hr from initial fill with cold water)

Might want to do a bit of 'preventative maintenance' on that water heater
Replace that rusted up 'burner tube'
While you have it off----unscrew main gas orifice on gas valve ---soak it in alcohol then let it air dry (no poking anything thru orifice or high pressure air....damage it)
Then go thru all wire terminal/spade connectors and clean/tighten so they have good contacts
Pull circuit board connectors.........clean board contacts with pencil eraser
And that T&P Relief Valve.....with water supply turned ON---Cold----Pop Valve Open via Lever and flush valve disc/seat then let valve snap close


Above will go along way to keeping your water heater functioning properly




Exact Model Number will be on that sticker on side frame next to burner area


What RV do you have???
YEAR-----BRAND-----MODEL

Info really HELPS for responses
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Old 01-15-2018, 01:30 PM   #7
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You would do well to look up the brand and model number of each appliance and system that you have. Usually you can download installation, parts and owners manuals from the manufacturers website.
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Old 01-16-2018, 05:07 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit View Post
Water should have been HOT......heats to 140*F

NO the RED FAULT Light should NOT come on unless a 'fault condition' occurs

*Propane Flame FAILS to light and PROVE it lit........3 attempts then circuit board will go into 'LOCK-OUT' and trigger the FAULT Light
Reset by turning GAS On/Off Switch ----OFF/wait 30 seconds/turn back ON
Circuit board will make 3 attempts again to light/prove main flame

*ECO Trips (Energy Cut Out---HI Temp T-stat).
Opens at 180*F to shut down ALL heating (electric and/or propane) if Normal T_stat fails to open
Anytime ECO Opens it triggers FAULT Light.
ECO will self-reset when water temp drops below 150*F but you have to reset Fault Light ---turn off/wait/turn on
If ECO operates.....replace Normal t-stat cause it is NOT controlling normal heat cycles


You can use just electric to heat when you have 120V AC----slowest recovery time (6 gal/hr from initial fill with cold water)
You can use just propane to heat anytime....little faster recovery time (13 gal/hr from initial fill with cold water)
you can use electric/propane together....fastest recovery time (~18-20 gal/hr from initial fill with cold water)

Might want to do a bit of 'preventative maintenance' on that water heater
Replace that rusted up 'burner tube'
While you have it off----unscrew main gas orifice on gas valve ---soak it in alcohol then let it air dry (no poking anything thru orifice or high pressure air....damage it)
Then go thru all wire terminal/spade connectors and clean/tighten so they have good contacts
Pull circuit board connectors.........clean board contacts with pencil eraser
And that T&P Relief Valve.....with water supply turned ON---Cold----Pop Valve Open via Lever and flush valve disc/seat then let valve snap close


Above will go along way to keeping your water heater functioning properly




Exact Model Number will be on that sticker on side frame next to burner area


What RV do you have???
YEAR-----BRAND-----MODEL

Info really HELPS for responses
Thanks for help with preventative maintenance. I will do it.

My tt is a 2008 Starlite by McKenzie Sl-28RLS

I believe the model number for the water heater is MPD-93756
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Old 01-17-2018, 07:17 AM   #9
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One other tip. Always make sure the hot water tank is full before turning on the power. You can “fry” the electric heating element in a short time with an empty tank.
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Old 01-17-2018, 07:21 AM   #10
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I use both when I shower as it provides nearly unending hot water. I can sing in the shower all day, it's so nice.
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Old 08-14-2018, 01:35 PM   #11
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Is there a way to shut off the propane to the hot water heater without turning off the "main" tank? I don't see an on/off switch.
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Old 08-14-2018, 03:01 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by realjet View Post
Is there a way to shut off the propane to the hot water heater without turning off the "main" tank? I don't see an on/off switch.



There is NOT an individual shut off valve for water heater (or furnace/stove---might be one as part of gas valve for fridge)

Just the propane cylinder valves.


But if you do NOT turn the water heater propane switch ON it will not use any propane....propane will be available up to the water heater gas valve.
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Old 08-14-2018, 06:25 PM   #13
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There is NOT an individual shut off valve for water heater (or furnace/stove---might be one as part of gas valve for fridge)

Just the propane cylinder valves.


But if you do NOT turn the water heater propane switch ON it will not use any propane....propane will be available up to the water heater gas valve.
I've never tried using the propane with the hot water heater just the electric. I noticed when I turn the propane tank on I can smell propane around the hot water heater.
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Old 08-14-2018, 06:36 PM   #14
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I hooked up the water turned on the left side (electric). Waited about an hour, turned on the hot water and it was HOT! The red light didn't come on. Is it supposed to? Here's some pics.Attachment 188844Attachment 188845
When to turn on gas, the red light will come on until the heater lights then go out.
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