Hot water heater on brand new RV not working?

[Bill 3rd]

Originally Posted by dusty 3

Make or Model

https://www.highlandridgerv.com/products/


With a propane only hot water heater does it not have to be ignited (either pilot or some sort of igniter). The image posted here appears (to me) to be a pilot light. If that is not ignited (no hot water).

It's electronic ignition. The igniter can be seen in the lower right, with the black wire going to it.

[tuffr2]

I find it hard to believe but on a brand new trailer shouldn't the hot water heater be both gas and electric? I know they made gas only on the old old trailers but not in new trailers.

Are you guys sure it is a gas only water heater?

[dusty 3]

I am left with my question. Does this gas hot water heater with electronic ignition not require some sort of human intervention to get it lite? If it does maybe this is why the OP has no hot water.

[dusty 3]

I'm not certain about the OPs hot water heater but I do know that you can buy a new RV with a gas only hot water heater. I live in a desert area and it might surprise you, it did me, just how many people do all their camping out among the dunes with no electricity..

[tcg]

Originally Posted by dusty 3

I am left with my question. Does this gas hot water heater with electronic ignition not require some sort of human intervention to get it lite? If it does maybe this is why the OP has no hot water.

I have gas only, when you flip the switch in my kitchen you can hear the ignitor start to click. If the propane is on and flowing it will ignite. If there is no propane it will stop trying to ignite after a few seconds.

If you turn the switch off and then back on it will start the process again.

If the burner is ignited I just turn the switch off and it shuts down the burner.

It works almost exactly the same as my propane fridge. If you turn the switch to LP the ignitor will start to click, if propane is flowing it will ignite, if there is no propane it will stop trying until you reset the switch by turning it off and then back on.

I don't believe the OP ever answered the question about his gas stove or furnace working to determine if propane was flowing in the RV.

I also don't believe he answered the question if when he turns the switch on in his control panel does he hear the ignitor clicking.

If the rig is brand new it could be possible the tank was never filled or something as simple as the valve not being open.

Edit: and the trailer of RV must have the 12 volt system turned on.

[cavie]

Originally Posted by dusty 3

I am left with my question. Does this gas hot water heater with electronic ignition not require some sort of human intervention to get it lite? If it does maybe this is why the OP has no hot water.

Once you turn on the electronic ignition for the WH it is automatic after that. No more intervention required.

[cavie]

Originally Posted by tuffr2

I find it hard to believe but on a brand new trailer shouldn't the hot water heater be both gas and electric? I know they made gas only on the old old trailers but not in new trailers.

Are you guys sure it is a gas only water heater?

Gas only is common in many brands.

[Mike8253]

Just curious. Does the OP's TT have a propane detector that's wired into the propane delivery system? I had a MH where the propane detector had to be ON/Working to permit propane delivery to the stove and WH.

[1st-tt2018]

I had the same experience to the OP. In my case the circuit board was bad from the get go. Thought they had it fixed by now but they could still be in circulation.

First, try to light off your stove. If good flame there, then light off the propane furnace. If good light(sounds like a jet engine and no more clicking after a minute) then try the hot water heater. If it lights, you will hear it burning inside and out by the access door. If it does not light there will be a fault light led by the rocker switch on the panel.

If the fault light is on, go outside, open the access door, and the open a window on that side of the rig from the inside so you can clearly hear what is going on. Turn the switch off for 20 seconds or more, turn it back on and then listen. You should hear a series of clicks followed by the propane lighting off. It will do this for 3 cycles the be in fault mode. Sometimes it can take 10 of these cycles to get the lines clear and good propane flow. If still no joy, the first thing might be your igniter/flame sensor is bad (mine was straight outta the box) and the second thing would be a bad board.

I went ahead and bought the 13 dollar ignitor from Amazon instead of a warranty trip to try since it was cheaper than a trip to the dealer.

Once i confirmed it was the board, I called the dealer, they got the board under warranty and i did the swap...took 5 minutes.

Hopefully this helps.

[Nudge]

Following

[Old-Biscuit]

Originally Posted by tuffr2

I find it hard to believe but on a brand new trailer shouldn't the hot water heater be both gas and electric? I know they made gas only on the old old trailers but not in new trailers.

Are you guys sure it is a gas only water heater?

Zoom in on the data sticker on right sidewall of water heater in picture
G6A-8E
Which I already broke down the 'model number' in earlier post.....GAS ONLY

Originally Posted by tcg

I have gas only, when you flip the switch in my kitchen you can hear the ignitor start to click. If the propane is on and flowing it will ignite. If there is no propane it will stop trying to ignite after a few seconds.

If you turn the switch off and then back on it will start the process again.

If the burner is ignited I just turn the switch off and it shuts down the burner.

It works almost exactly the same as my propane fridge. If you turn the switch to LP the ignitor will start to click, if propane is flowing it will ignite, if there is no propane it will stop trying until you reset the switch by turning it off and then back on.

I don't believe the OP ever answered the question about his gas stove or furnace working to determine if propane was flowing in the RV.

I also don't believe he answered the question if when he turns the switch on in his control panel does he hear the ignitor clicking.

If the rig is brand new it could be possible the tank was never filled or something as simple as the valve not being open.

Edit: and the trailer of RV must have the 12 volt system turned on.

OP is a novice.......he posted that info
He was 'side tracked' into looking for the electric on/off switch which he could not find cause WH is Gas Only


He has been delayed in responding due to being a working stiff and having other commitments but did post that he would be checking/getting back


I am sure he will discover that prorpane cylinders need valved in service and flow established on LP System

[tcg]

Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit

OP is a novice.......he posted that info
He was 'side tracked' into looking for the electric on/off switch which he could not find cause WH is Gas Only

He has been delayed in responding due to being a working stiff and having other commitments but did post that he would be checking/getting back

I am sure he will discover that prorpane cylinders need valved in service and flow established on LP System

I went back and read all of his posts, I did not see where he said he had tried his stove, furnace or LP fridge if he had one.

I did not see where he said he could hear the ignitor clicking when he turned on the switch.

I understand he's working and can't respond immediately but when he does get time all of the things I mentioned would help others help him troubleshoot the problem.

[Old-Biscuit]

Originally Posted by tcg

I went back and read all of his posts, I did not see where he said he had tried his stove, furnace or LP fridge if he had one.

I did not see where he said he could hear the ignitor clicking when he turned on the switch.

I understand he's working and can't respond immediately but when he does get time all of the things I mentioned would help others help him troubleshoot the problem.

Cause he didn't post any of that info.....
Side tracked into looking for that elusive electric on/off switch

[thecityman]

ok, folks, I just don't know where to begin. THank-you seems like the best place. That so many complete strangers with nothing to gain would go to such lengths to help me is absolutely amazing to me. I just cannot thank you all enough. I really ought to go through and reply to each individual post and thank you and tell you how you helped me, but it would take hours. So let me just say that almost every single post in this thread was extremely helpful. Many helped me with things not directly related to my Original Post/question but was still invaluable. For example, you did help me identify both a carbon dioxide monitor and my circute panel with fan (both of which were near the flood and what I was asking about). Thats just one example, but I learned many other things from your posts, so thank you so much.

THe next feeling I am compelled to express is "I AM SORRY"!!!!! I say that because, as some of you correctly figured out for me, apparently the reason I couldn't figure out how to make my hot water heater work on electric is that IT DOESN"T HAVE THAT OPTION!!! So as awful as I feel about it, it looks like I sent you all on a wild goose chase! I also want you to know I am very angry about this, because I am 100% certain that my dealer and the girl who showed me how to use things on my TT both told me my water heater worked on gas or electric, as did my heat. Apparently both of those were a lie- or at best a mistake. I called the shop there on Friday and they didn't even know my camper by the model and were pretty clueless, but basically said it there wasn't 2 switches for hot water (gas and electric) but only the one gas switch on my control switch panel, then it only has gas hot water. And since my thermostate only has "heat, cold, fan" they say there is no electric heat option.

Honestly, I'm not too worried about the heat because I've been using an electric 110 heater, which we all know is pretty lightweight but with my small campet it has been completely heating it down to the mid 20's- so unless you tell me some big reason not to run that, then I pretty much do have electric heat.

I'm very upset that my hot water heater requires gas, but nothing I can do now. I also have a water leak somewhere that I am going to have to find. It only happens when I run water in the kitchen sink, so either it is at the knobs if on the pressure line or its in the drain. Ive looked a little but can't see anything wet on the lines or drain. But a few minutes after using the sink a little stream runs out from under the cabinet. VERY frustrating to have problems with a BRAND NEW UNIT....and I'm sure it didn't freeze since it was winterized until I heated it and it has barely been below freezing anyway.

Once again, please accept my deepest appreciation for all of you who tried to help- you were more helpful than you know.