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Old 08-01-2019, 07:17 AM   #29
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If you're not spinning the wheel while pumping grease you may push it past the seal

Takes a lot to get fresh grease out the front bearings

Great system that many use successfully including me on many different trailers
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Old 08-01-2019, 07:48 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by lwmcguire View Post
If you're not spinning the wheel while pumping grease you may push it past the seal

Takes a lot to get fresh grease out the front bearings

Great system that many use successfully including me on many different trailers

Good advice, but now that you have taken the time to jack up the tire, you may as well hand grease the bearings.
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Old 08-04-2019, 03:39 PM   #31
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How to remove center cap

Just pop of the center cap with a screw driver. Remove the rubber dust cap. Make sure to jack the rig, and turn the wheel as you are adding grease. It will take about a tube for each axle the first time you do it. Hope this helps
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Old 08-04-2019, 04:12 PM   #32
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Guys,
They are called "zerk" fittings! Don't know why, but I sold auto parts for 10 years.
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Old 08-04-2019, 04:57 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by Rzrbrn View Post
This is a pic of one of my wheels on my 2019 25RQ. Notice the hub that covers the end of the axle. This is a Dexter E-Z Lub axle.

How does a person get to the zert on the end of the spindle in order to squirt grease into it? It looks to me like either the Alloy ION medallion should be pryed off or the entire cap comes off. If so, which is it, if either? I sure hope I don't have to take the entire wheel off to get that cap off. If the entire cap comes off how best to do so?

I just want to spin the tire and maybe squirt a bit of grease into the axle. I don't want to take the bearing out and pack by hand at this time, just access the axle zert.

Sorry folks. I am trying to add a pic of the wheel. I will keep trying.
Hopefully everyone is using the correct grease. Ordinary chassis grease is not suitable for wheel bearings. They use a high temperature grease.
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Old 08-04-2019, 05:06 PM   #34
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On mine you have to remove tire/wheel to get access. The hubcap covering the access pops out once wheel is pulled off. Regards Ron
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Old 08-04-2019, 11:00 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by Davemik View Post
Guys,
They are called "zerk" fittings! Don't know why, but I sold auto parts for 10 years.
They are called Zerk or Alemite Fittings because they were invented by Oscar U. Zerk in January 1929 for the Alemite Manufacturing Corporation.

As for using the E-Z Lube fitting since most people don't understand how to manually pack a wheel bearing properly Joe Average will most often do a better job by using the E-Z Lube fitting to add grease while spinning the wheel to help distribute it.

The guys at AgWeb/The Farm Journal put out a very good video on how to hand pack bearings for those interested in doing it the right way themselves without having to purchase a packer tool which although I do have one I rarely use since it wastes grease and takes more time to clean up than it saves unless your really doing a lot of bearings in a row that day.




Note too that not all wheel bearing grease is compatible so adding an incompatible grease to whats already there without completely cleaning the old out can lead to the pressure additives in both greases reacting quite badly to each other and turning into an abrasive sand like grit inside your wheel hubs. On trailers we service in the boat yard for the first time we pull the wheels, clean out the old grease and change them over to a red and tacky wheel bearing grease which is the only one we use following the hand packing method as shown in the AgWeb video.

Afterwards we use the Bearing Buddies or the E-Z Lube fittings to maintain the grease between annual repacking.

The E-Z Lube really does not eliminate the need to clean out the old grease and replace it with fresh and is only for topping off. The axle seals still need to be replaced as per the maintenance schedule as they do not last forever.
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Old 08-05-2019, 08:07 AM   #36
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Thanks everyone for responding. I use Mystic #2 high temp lithium grease. While it is best to stay w one brand you can mix brands of the same type of grease: lithium and lithium, calcium and calcium, moly and moly, etc.
Dexter tech said EZ lube pushes out all the old grease and replaces w new. Only down side is you canít manually check the bearings. While I have manually greased bearings, and will again, the EZ lube works well enough for me. I will have to take off the wheel to access the EZ lube zerk.
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Old 08-05-2019, 08:23 AM   #37
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Originally Posted by grindstone01 View Post
Good advice, but now that you have taken the time to jack up the tire, you may as well hand grease the bearings.
Not really, unless you have a seal handy

Raising the wheels also let you check bearing play

There are 10 times or more people who use the EZ Lube than don't

If you have a seal driver, seal ,time, go for it
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Old 08-05-2019, 08:38 AM   #38
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Drill hole, put something like these in it's place. https://www.google.com/search?safe=a...SgHAaEQ4dUDCAY
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Old 08-05-2019, 11:29 AM   #39
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Thanks everyone for responding. I use Mystic #2 high temp lithium grease. While it is best to stay w one brand you can mix brands of the same type of grease: lithium and lithium, calcium and calcium, moly and moly, etc.
Dexter tech said EZ lube pushes out all the old grease and replaces w new. Only down side is you can’t manually check the bearings. While I have manually greased bearings, and will again, the EZ lube works well enough for me. I will have to take off the wheel to access the EZ lube zerk.

While it would be great if the E-Z Lube actually cleaned out all the old grease and replaced it with new that's not really 100% accurate and true. I have serviced many trailers in the boat yard and have dispelled that myth multiple times by opening up the hub and cleaning out all the dirty grease the E-Z Lube leaves behind. Sadly most of what it misses is inside the bearing itself along with any hard edges inside the hub.

It takes a bit of wash, rinse and repeating in parts cleaner to get them 100% clean (like when they were new) which E-Z Lube just isn't going to do for you.

Since we reverted to manual packing our trailer bearings on an annual basis along with checking them quarterly and giving them a few pumps of fresh grease using the E-Z Lube we have greatly reduced our costs to replace bearings.

Granted our trailers see almost daily use transporting, launching and retrieving boats in a salt water environment so would be considered in highly severe service.

We buy bundles of the two most popular seal sizes along with a handful of the thee bearing sizes used by most axles.

I'll pass this along too that we had a very expensive tub of Synthetic Grease go bad on us since we used it very sparingly making it so we did not finish it within a year or so. Instead of the oil separating from the pressure additive as one expects, over time it set up like Epoxy Resin that had been mixed with a catalyst turning it hard as a rock. It was not a happy sight to see when we opened the tub and found a few pounds of grease colored hard plastic instead of grease. You could not even dig it out with a putty knife. Saving grace is that we did not hand pack any of it into a grease gun and loose that too.


So grease them regularly and do take the time to open them up at least once every two years (though annually would be best) to do a real good cleaning and maintenance check.
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Old 08-05-2019, 07:20 PM   #40
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Not really, unless you have a seal handy

Raising the wheels also let you check bearing play

There are 10 times or more people who use the EZ Lube than don't

If you have a seal driver, seal ,time, go for it

I will usually leave the seal in place and can clean and pack the rear bearing with out removing it from the hub. I do this by putting a glob of grease on 2 fingers and reach inside the hub and pull it back against the front of the bearing, and do this many times over. If I do need to remove the seal, I can usually reinstall the old one if the rubber lip is not damaged and I will just keep a eye on it for any future grease leaking. I would not reuse a seal on a boat hub that goes into water, but a RV trailer is OK.
I do carry extra new seals in my tool box, just in case I need them. But at $20 each seal, I am careful to reuse the old ones. This has worked good for me over the years with many, many trailers.
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Old 08-06-2019, 02:39 PM   #41
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My experience with these grease zercks on the end of the axles of my boat trailer is that I pack the wheel bearings well, hubs off, then install the hubs. Those grease zercks only permit filling the cavity between the axle and hub, and for a boat trailer that's great. Keeps water out of the bearings. Those zercks don't shoot grease into the bearings themsrlves, only method to use is hand packing.
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Old 08-07-2019, 07:59 AM   #42
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My experience with these grease zercks on the end of the axles of my boat trailer is that I pack the wheel bearings well, hubs off, then install the hubs. Those grease zercks only permit filling the cavity between the axle and hub, and for a boat trailer that's great. Keeps water out of the bearings. Those zercks don't shoot grease into the bearings themsrlves, only method to use is hand packing.
That's what I was thinking, they just put grease in the cavity between the bearings, so spinning the wheel would add no benefit.
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