Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×
RV Trip Planning Discussions

Go Back   iRV2 Forums > TRAVEL TRAILER, 5th WHEEL & TRUCK CAMPER FORUMS > Travel Trailer Discussion
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on iRV2
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 07-31-2022, 04:18 PM   #1
Senior Member
 
Outdoors RV Owners Club
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 311
How to remove a brake drum race using a shop press?

Hello all--

I wanted to see if anyone has a method for removing brake drum/hub bearing races from trailer brake drums using a simple shop press.

I know there are kits that use machined alum discs of various sizes to install races and seals (either with a hammer, press, and air hammer) but have never seen how to remove them using a shop press.

I know how to remove races using a brass drift and hammer. You must access race at an angle, as the race can not be hit vertically with the drift. This is what makes using a press a challenge.

So.....how can races be removed from brake drums using a shop press?

Maybe it's so simple, I can't see it or think of it!!!

Thanks!
__________________
2003 Ford F-350 XLT, Super Duty - Crew Cab, 2WD, 6.5' Bed, SRW, 6.8L/V10, 3.73:1, 4R100. Level with cab topper and CargoGlide 1000 in truck bed 2011 Keystone Outback 25RS; Equal-i-zer Hitch
SoCalAngler is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 07-31-2022, 04:38 PM   #2
Senior Member
 
GOLDWINGER2's Avatar
 
Vintage RV Owners Club
Fleetwood Owners Club
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: CA
Posts: 1,265
Quote:
Originally Posted by SoCalAngler View Post
Hello all--

I wanted to see if anyone has a method for removing brake drum/hub bearing races from trailer brake drums using a simple shop press.

I know there are kits that use machined alum discs of various sizes to install races and seals (either with a hammer, press, and air hammer) but have never seen how to remove them using a shop press.

I know how to remove races using a brass drift and hammer. You must access race at an angle, as the race can not be hit vertically with the drift. This is what makes using a press a challenge.

So.....how can races be removed from brake drums using a shop press?

Maybe it's so simple, I can't see it or think of it!!!

Thanks!
A drift and a two pound hammer, once you clean up all of the grease you should
see cut-outs used to place the drift head. Whack it out and use the old race to install the new one, then tap out the old one and reassemble with the new bearings and seal. Don't forget to pack the new bearings with the proper grease.
__________________
1988 PACE ARROW
P30, 454 ENG, TURBO 400 TRANS
TOWING '80 WING OR 2006 AVALON
GOLDWINGER2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-31-2022, 04:45 PM   #3
Senior Member
 
Outdoors RV Owners Club
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: So. Cal.
Posts: 384
If you have access to a welder, run a bead half way around the race. Keep the bead off the casting. TIG or MIG is suggested, but I have used arc successfully. Weld your bead and turn the casting over so the race falls out. Good luck with your project.
__________________
GPCPL
2017 ORV Glacier Peak F26 RLS
04 Dodge 3500 CC, DRW, 4.11 gears, 4X4, Cummins 5.9, NV5600 manual trans.
GPCPL is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-31-2022, 04:49 PM   #4
Senior Member
 
Fleetwood Owners Club
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Salem, OR
Posts: 1,164
Quote:
Originally Posted by SoCalAngler View Post
Hello all--

I wanted to see if anyone has a method for removing brake drum/hub bearing races from trailer brake drums using a simple shop press.

I know there are kits that use machined alum discs of various sizes to install races and seals (either with a hammer, press, and air hammer) but have never seen how to remove them using a shop press.

I know how to remove races using a brass drift and hammer. You must access race at an angle, as the race can not be hit vertically with the drift. This is what makes using a press a challenge.

So.....how can races be removed from brake drums using a shop press?

Maybe it's so simple, I can't see it or think of it!!!

Thanks!
Having been in the trade over 50 years, the standard practice is driving the races out with punch and drilling hammer. Sometimes hub mfg. allow 2 scallops in the casting to have access to the bottom of the race, not always.

Always, the hub itself should be supported, never the drum or wheel studs.

The only way I could see pressing out a race would be with a driver machined to just under casting hole diameter. If you have a lathe and the time, it could be done.

Pressing new races in with the cone adapters would be fine. I've always liked the feel and sound of bottoming by hand, myself. Reassures me it's not hanging on a burr.
code2e is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-31-2022, 06:57 PM   #5
Senior Member
 
Outdoors RV Owners Club
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 311
As mentioned, I do know how to remove with drift and hammer.

I wanted to know if anyone has removed races with a press.

I may still remove with brass drift and hammer/baby sledge, if a press method is not found.

I may install with a press, as coming in from opposite side for installation allows for direct vertical access to the circumference of the race, thus allowing for a large socket or aluminum discs (found in bearing/seal install sets) to be used.
__________________
2003 Ford F-350 XLT, Super Duty - Crew Cab, 2WD, 6.5' Bed, SRW, 6.8L/V10, 3.73:1, 4R100. Level with cab topper and CargoGlide 1000 in truck bed 2011 Keystone Outback 25RS; Equal-i-zer Hitch
SoCalAngler is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-31-2022, 07:14 PM   #6
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2021
Posts: 185
They sell internal bearing collet sets that are meant to be used with a slide hammer. They go in from the larger end of the race and then are expanded so that fingers grip the race. This only works if the race isn't bottomed out in a way that theres no gap for the collet fingers to grip. Like I said, they're meant to be used with a slide hammer, but once they're gripping the race you can then set them up in a press to push them out.

Sets are available in various size ranges so make sure that if you buy a set it has the collet that's the correct size for your bearing. Harbor Freight sells a set. You can also buy individual collets from other sources to get only the size you need. That's a lot cheaper than buying a set.

If the race is bottomed out in a way that a collet won't work then running a weld bead on the inside to shrink it so it falls out is a good solution.
Punkinhead is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-31-2022, 07:16 PM   #7
Senior Member
 
Fleetwood Owners Club
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Salem, OR
Posts: 1,164
Quote:
Originally Posted by SoCalAngler View Post
As mentioned, I do know how to remove with drift and hammer.

I wanted to know if anyone has removed races with a press.

I may still remove with brass drift and hammer/baby sledge, if a press method is not found.

I may install with a press, as coming in from opposite side for installation allows for direct vertical access to the circumference of the race, thus allowing for a large socket or aluminum discs (found in bearing/seal install sets) to be used.
You may have missed the part of my reply that addressed your question:

The only way I could see pressing out a race would be with a driver machined to just under casting hole diameter. If you have a lathe and the time, it could be done.

I did fail to mention this would only work on the outer bearing race. I know of no way possible to press out an inner race since the access is smaller than the i.d. of the race.
code2e is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-31-2022, 07:34 PM   #8
Senior Member
 
Fleetwood Owners Club
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Salem, OR
Posts: 1,164
Quote:
Originally Posted by Punkinhead View Post
They sell internal bearing collet sets that are meant to be used with a slide hammer. They go in from the larger end of the race and then are expanded so that fingers grip the race. This only works if the race isn't bottomed out in a way that theres no gap for the collet fingers to grip. Like I said, they're meant to be used with a slide hammer, but once they're gripping the race you can then set them up in a press to push them out.

Sets are available in various size ranges so make sure that if you buy a set it has the collet that's the correct size for your bearing. Harbor Freight sells a set. You can also buy individual collets from other sources to get only the size you need. That's a lot cheaper than buying a set.

If the race is bottomed out in a way that a collet won't work then running a weld bead on the inside to shrink it so it falls out is a good solution.
Your idea might work for the OP's issue. I have used slide hammer collet pullers many times. Mostly for axle bearings that pulled out as an assembly. But I see it could grip a race as long as it clears the cast hole.

Looked at Harbor Freight and could not find it. Doesn't mean they don't have it. Did find a reasonably priced set on Amazon I hoped would at least show the idea.

"Orion Motor Tech Blind Hole Collet Bearing Race and Seal Puller Extractor Kit"

They want $67 for it. No idea if sizes will work.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	collet.jpg
Views:	26
Size:	46.2 KB
ID:	372512  
code2e is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-01-2022, 07:14 AM   #9
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 344
You could try a socket that catches the edges of the race as a driver for the ram. Keep an old race for when you have them out and are ready to install the new ones. Grind a slot into the old one so the diameter can be shrunk down a bit by squeezing it. Use it to press in the new one.
__________________
Evergreen Ascend 19 ERD
04 silverado 1500
hobie tandem island, electric recumbent trikes
MCCOHENS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-01-2022, 08:40 AM   #10
Senior Member
 
Martian's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: Independent Republic of Horry
Posts: 556
Or you could use this non-existent tool
https://www.harborfreight.com/3-jaw-...CABEgLoVfD_BwE
__________________
2018 Ram 1500, 2020 Cougar 22RBS
Just the 2 of us and 2 Jacks on the roam.
Meet us at Olympus Mons. Gone Traveling.
Martian is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-01-2022, 05:11 PM   #11
Senior Member
 
Outdoors RV Owners Club
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 311
Thank you all for the ideas and advice.

The welded bead is a good idea that I may try one day when I get a decent welder.

The HF tool may work, but the three prongs appear too thick to grab the small edge area for the inner races.

Machining a custom tool would be the best method, if I had a lathe.

Found this and his idea is pretty simple and effective.....




I may stick to the age old method of my brass drift and hammer for removal. If I do not have the correct size socket to install the race, I may purchase this set; it appears to be of good quality and has the option to use a hammer or air hammer....

https://www.harborfreight.com/alumin...-pc-58262.html
__________________
2003 Ford F-350 XLT, Super Duty - Crew Cab, 2WD, 6.5' Bed, SRW, 6.8L/V10, 3.73:1, 4R100. Level with cab topper and CargoGlide 1000 in truck bed 2011 Keystone Outback 25RS; Equal-i-zer Hitch
SoCalAngler is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-01-2022, 07:54 PM   #12
Senior Member
 
Fleetwood Owners Club
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Salem, OR
Posts: 1,164
Quote:
Originally Posted by SoCalAngler View Post
Thank you all for the ideas and advice.

The welded bead is a good idea that I may try one day when I get a decent welder.

The HF tool may work, but the three prongs appear too thick to grab the small edge area for the inner races.

Machining a custom tool would be the best method, if I had a lathe.

Found this and his idea is pretty simple and effective.....




I may stick to the age old method of my brass drift and hammer for removal. If I do not have the correct size socket to install the race, I may purchase this set; it appears to be of good quality and has the option to use a hammer or air hammer....

https://www.harborfreight.com/alumin...-pc-58262.html
I learned a new technique, thank you. That wedge press tool the You Tube guy made is pretty neat. Could see that working well with 4 contact points. Have a press, may just make me a tool.

Also, I own a set of the installers you linked. They work very well. Soft enough to not mar the races, strong enough to drive them in.
code2e is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-02-2022, 08:37 PM   #13
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 162
Cutting torch if it won’t drive out, no big deal
kyfarmboy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-02-2022, 08:49 PM   #14
Senior Member
 
CharlesinGA's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: South of Atlanta, Georgia
Posts: 2,105
Given the variation in castings it would be difficult to make a tool that would fit on the shoulders of the race to remove it. I miss the two or three reliefs in the casting to expose the entire bottom of the race, sure made it easy to get a punch on them.

Snap-On makes special hardened steel punches with oval ends for removing bearing races.

Not sure why you want to use the press, it probably will take longer to set it up to drive them out that if you simply used a punch on a wood block on the floor. I have used brass punches for lots of things, but they don't work well on this.

https://shop.snapon.com/categories/O...Punches/675265

Charles
__________________
'03 Ram 2500 CTD, 5.9HO six speed PacBrake std cab long bed Leer top and 2008 Bigfoot 25B21RB.. Previously, 2008 Thor Freedom Spirit 180, SOLD! 2007 Winnebago View 23H Motorhome, SOLD!
CharlesinGA is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
ace, brake



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Why Are We Still Using Drum Brakes ? ZooOnWheels Class A Motorhome Discussions 28 06-09-2022 05:47 PM
Air brakes - dont press pedal with parking brake set? redbaron73 Class A Motorhome Discussions 12 01-24-2013 08:59 AM
Anyone using their rv generator to power race car trailer ??? BlasiRacing Freightliner Motorhome Chassis Forum 2 07-26-2012 06:37 PM
AutoPark Brake Drum Mapreader 65 Workhorse and Chevrolet Chassis Motorhome Forum 3 07-10-2007 07:53 AM
Need Part Number For AutoPark Brake Drum Mapreader 65 MH-General Discussions & Problems 1 07-09-2007 01:46 PM

» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 10:16 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.