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Old 05-30-2022, 12:15 PM   #1
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Inline breaker with red light on - how to fix?

I admit im new to the camper community, only on here over a year or so and been able fix most of the basic stuff on my travel trailer (aka. parts kit), but I'm running into one I am looking for help with.

Problem - When i turn on my water I basically have cold and not as cold. So, I started by checking all internal fuses as I was already inside (all tested good, no breakers tripped). So, I then went under the trailer and I do see one that has a bright red light on it (see pictures)...I cant find the same one online to understand what type it is or if its even related to my water, but it appears to be at the end of circuit as I only see a wire going in, but other end appears capped.

1.) How would I replace this since i cant seem to find a way to open it like i would for a normal inline fuse, or is the fuse elsewhere?
2.) When i push the red button it clicks, but stays on...
3.) My other inline ones shown in picture do not have reset buttons (at least that i can see), so not sure how to tell if they are bad?
4.) Once the water line is hooked up, the outside switch on water heater is flipped on, but not until tank had water.
5.) Am i just an idiot and missing something completely unrelated?


Travel Trailer:
2021 Geo Pro 20BHS
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Old 05-30-2022, 12:25 PM   #2
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I could be way off here but that thing looks like a tire pressure monitoring system repeater- gets the towed vehicle tire signals to the towing vehicle. Do you have a TPMS system?
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Old 05-30-2022, 01:15 PM   #3
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Don't know what 'that' is but has nothing to do with your Water Heater
Could be Tire Monitoring Transponder...your RV has that feature



The 'other' item in 2nd picture is a DC Circuit Breaker
Most are 'auto' reset....some Manual via SMALL button on end of the breaker
Gold Stud is DC+ IN and Sliver Stud is DC+ OUT if breaker is closed
*Tripped....NO DC+ on Sliver stud



As for Water Heater...you mentioned switch in outside compartment
That is the 120VAC on/off switch for the AC Heater Element
15A Circuit Breaker in the RV Main AC Panel feds 120VAC to the switch
From Switch 120VAC goes to the set of T-stats (above gas valve)
*Push To Reset' cover ---High Temp T-stat is a manual reset
Left Side is the 120VAC for the Element
Right Side is the 12VDC for the Gas

120VAC from T-stat then goes to Element (oval cover under gas Valve)
Black/Hot ---White/Neutral (back to RV Main AC Panel Neutrals)

Have you tried GAS?
With propane valved in service turn Inside Switch ON
Should hear Spark Electrode CLICK CLICK CLICK and then FLAME ignite

Both Gas & Electric T-stats control temp to 130*F
High Temp T-stat Trips at 170*F ----Manual Reset (Push To Reset)
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Old 05-30-2022, 03:14 PM   #4
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Thanks...I do have the tire pressure system. I will check the fuse and also try gas, thanks again.
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Old 05-30-2022, 03:15 PM   #5
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Thanks, I do have the tpms and that is probably what it is...i had no clue.
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Old 05-31-2022, 06:29 AM   #6
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Problem - When i turn on my water I basically have cold and not as cold.

Old Biscuit's advice is the best.

If you have warm water, the water heater may be working. Carefully open the safety valve on the water heater and see if water in the heater is hot.

Many RV's have a winterization by-pass. These systems have one, to three valves on the back of the heater. One or more valves may be set wrong causing cold and hot water to mix.

An internal or external shower may have valves turned "on" while the shower head is turned "off". Cold water tends to pass through and dilute the hot water.
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Old 05-31-2022, 11:34 AM   #7
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I have attached a photo of the water heater, I had someone ask me if the pilot light was out, but I don’t see a way to light it?

The shower knobs are both closed, and winterization valves are correct…could I just need a new heating element?
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Old 05-31-2022, 11:59 AM   #8
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That is a Suburban Water Heater
No Pilot Light,,,,,,,uses an Electronic Ignition. Turn GAS Switch On and Spark Electrode FIRES as Gas Valve Opens

AC Element
Did you check if the High Temp T-stat needed to be RESET?
Is there an INSIDE Switch for the AC ?
*Some MFGs had one...Both have to be on for AC to work (Inside & Outside switches)

***IF you turned the AC on before filling water heater tank with water
YES you will need to replace the Element (they burn out very quickly when energized DRY)


RE-READ Post #3 for more info
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Old 05-31-2022, 12:25 PM   #9
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Thanks, I will order a new heating element as soon as I figure out which is the correct one for the Suburban water heater.
I know it has been switched on dry before (not on purpose), so hopefully that’s it.

Tonight I will try using the fresh tanks and see if I at least have hot water that way?
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Old 05-31-2022, 01:07 PM   #10
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Also check the by-pass valve used when winterizing the system. Might be introducing cold water where you should have hot water. Might be partial open.
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Old 05-31-2022, 01:49 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrobison161 View Post
Thanks, I will order a new heating element as soon as I figure out which is the correct one for the Suburban water heater.
I know it has been switched on dry before (not on purpose), so hopefully that’s it.

Tonight I will try using the fresh tanks and see if I at least have hot water that way?

"using the fresh tanks"
I take that to mean Propane Cylinders that have been filled?

After valving in (OPEN THE VALVE SLOWLY) it will take several attempts to light off propane appliances.
Have to establish flow/pressure and place regulator in control.
Light off Stove Top burners on HI to help


Suburban uses a 120VAC 1440W AC Element
Part #520900
*Old Part # 520789

Shop around for lowest pricing.........wide price range

Need a 1 1/2" 6 point socket to R&R element
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Old 05-31-2022, 08:41 PM   #12
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Also make sure your outside shower valves are in the off position. My DW used our shower head to rinse off her feet shut the head off but didn't close the valves. Hot water not so hot. Who would have thought
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Old 05-31-2022, 09:59 PM   #13
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Also make sure your outside shower valves are in the off position. My DW used our shower head to rinse off her feet shut the head off but didn't close the valves. Hot water not so hot. Who would have thought
Inside/outside showers shutoff via button on handle allows the faucet to act as a mixing chamber
Cold can overcome the hot and dilute it causing Luke Warm water to flow
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Old 06-03-2022, 08:18 AM   #14
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Fixed

Quote:
Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit View Post

Suburban uses a 120VAC 1440W AC Element
Part #520900
*Old Part # 520789

Shop around for lowest pricing.........wide price range

Need a 1 1/2" 6 point socket to R&R element
Thanks to everyone that helped out, I truly appreciate it and would rather fix it myself (with all of your help of course) than take to a dealer.

I checked the outside shower (wasnt open), connected to just fresh water tanks and it worked....Checked all inside breakers and fuses (bought extra fuses for later), all good...Thanks to Old-Biscuit's input I ordered the new heater element....Took awhile to warm up and at first thought it wasnt working, but checked back a few hours later and had hot water....so, problem was the tank water heater element was bad, and I have nobody to blame but myslef as I have not been the best at making sure its off until take has water, or shutting it off before disconnecting water....lessons learned....
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