Community Forums

green_plaid · 07-30-2020, 10:59 PM

Thats the question...is caulk really needed for the exterior of a camper (not the roof) if it's been sealed with butyl or putty tape. I know caulk will help keep the putty or butyl tape clean but if say your lights and other smaller openings are sealed to the point where the tape oozes out of the edges and is trimmed flush...completely necessary? I've been using whatever brand butyl and putty tape camping world has. Also does one seal better than the other? Ive used butyl (gray) for the smaller stuff and the putty tape (off white) for the larger openings.

I started to put Lexel around the markers and said forget it with that stuff...it was like glue and didn't smooth at all. Ill most likely use OSI quad but just curious.

rarebear.nm · 07-30-2020, 11:07 PM

It depends somewhat.

In most cases I would still caulk. The amount of damage a water leak will cause far exceeds the cost/effort to use a quality caulk to prevent troubles.

Looks like you have ribbed alum siding, I think it is hard to get a uniform seal with just tape.

Just saying....

NewBlackDak · 07-30-2020, 11:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rarebear.nm

It depends somewhat.

In most cases I would still caulk. The amount of damage a water leak will cause far exceeds the cost/effort to use a quality caulk to prevent troubles.

Looks like you have ribbed alum siding, I think it is hard to get a uniform seal with just tape.

Just saying....

So much this.

green_plaid · 07-30-2020, 11:38 PM

Fair enough. In the rib valleys...however you want to refer to it as...the tape is tripled up. I do like the tape because you can see that it is uniformly sealed. I do hate caulking though....time consuming...messy...looks like poop if you dont tool it quick enough. I always planned to caulk but it might rain once or twice before it all gets done.

bddadles · 07-31-2020, 06:28 AM

My personal opinion is caulk everything. I have seen water damage and it does not take much of a crack for it to get in. Sometimes it does not even appear to need a crack it just gets in somehow.

CharlesinGA · 07-31-2020, 03:52 PM

Use masking tape on both sides of the caulk line, have Popsicle sticks or tongue depressors on hand. Don't try to do much length at one time, about 2 ft no more than 3 ft before you stop to smooth, it will skin over quick.

I have used Dicor non sag but recently tried a tube of Geocel and was quite impressed at the looks of the job.

Apply it, smooth or shape it, and get the tape off fast. People won't take the time to tape and that is the problem with everything I see on RV's, jobs rushed and look crappy.

Charles

ByeTheWay · 07-31-2020, 04:02 PM

RVs go down the road at high speeds. Add rain and you see the need for caulk.

rarebear.nm · 07-31-2020, 04:26 PM

If I'm doing a longer section of caulk I'll pull out my pneumatic caulk gun which lays a nice even bead for a long run. For short runs just use the squeeze type gun without the "smooth" plunger rod. Also use masking tape on both sides of the caulk line and work shorter sections. If you have some correct thinner for the caulk and dip you spreader, finger, or other in it you can get get a smoother bead.

Just my techniques.

keymastr · 07-31-2020, 05:57 PM

The butyl tape fills the large gaps much better than caulk but will not last by itself forever. Most manufacturers suggestgoing over the butyl with a urethane caulk like Geocell Procell or Lexel. Marker lights are possibly the most common point of water intrusion followed by windows but any penetration must be maintained or it is just a matter of time before you have damage.

**Spdracr39** · 07-31-2020, 06:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rarebear.nm

It depends somewhat.

In most cases I would still caulk. The amount of damage a water leak will cause far exceeds the cost/effort to use a quality caulk to prevent troubles.

Looks like you have ribbed alum siding, I think it is hard to get a uniform seal with just tape.

Just saying....

This ^^^^^