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Old 05-01-2022, 09:25 AM   #15
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I am in the bondo and decal camp. If you paint, you have to match color, texture, and luster, almost impossible with my skill set. Bondo is cheap and easy, just prep the area correctly. If you leave it, check closely for cracks that could let water in. I would repair just to make sure no water can get in.
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Old 05-02-2022, 09:33 AM   #16
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I used to sell paint and body supplies and have also restored several vehicles; bondo/filler won't last in that application IMO and will be very hard to get to look like a professional repair. I maintain that the best fix is a light gauge aluminum diamond coat cover that would cover the entire front to just above the level on the damage - nobody would ever know the damage was there and many trailers come with the checkerplate from the factory.

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Old 05-02-2022, 11:19 AM   #17
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I used to sell paint and body supplies and have also restored several vehicles; bondo/filler won't last in that application IMO and will be very hard to get to look like a professional repair. I maintain that the best fix is a light gauge aluminum diamond coat cover that would cover the entire front to just above the level on the damage - nobody would ever know the damage was there and many trailers come with the checkerplate from the factory.

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And would you bend in the curve for them?
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Old 05-02-2022, 11:59 AM   #18
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And would you bend in the curve for them?
Yep; a set of forming rolls would do the trick - I have a sheet metal fab shop but for those that don't there should be at least one in any large-ish town.....probably the same place you'd source the aluminum checkerplate.

Dave
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Old 05-02-2022, 01:13 PM   #19
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I know people have used heat to repair hail damage. Don't know if that would work or not.
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Old 05-02-2022, 01:27 PM   #20
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This type of construction is a layer of filon with a thin sheet of Luan that is glued on the back for strength. Then these 2 layers are just sitting over the top of the foam board slatís, and framing. Appears the straight line at the top is one of the horizontal framing.

Applying a different material on top, and adhering it to the framing will effect expansion, and contraction, and thus ripples.

Using an adhesive, thus allowing the filon layer to still float would be recommended.
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Old 05-02-2022, 01:28 PM   #21
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I would sand bondo, prime, and the repaint the black bottom bringing it up enough to cover the repair.
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Old 05-02-2022, 08:45 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by Dave Pelletier View Post
I used to sell paint and body supplies and have also restored several vehicles; bondo/filler won't last in that application IMO and will be very hard to get to look like a professional repair. I maintain that the best fix is a light gauge aluminum diamond coat cover that would cover the entire front to just above the level on the damage - nobody would ever know the damage was there and many trailers come with the checkerplate from the factory.

2 cents,
Dave
Dave,
I am not an expert in body repair and I have no doubt the sheet metal would work. I am just saying I would try the Bondo and decal. It is probably less than $20 dollars in materials and easy to execute. If it failed after a few months, I would then go with the sheet metal. No harm, no foul. The sheet metal (and fab), edge strip, butyl tape, and screws is going to cost a $100+. I paid $40 for a .030 thick 48x24 sheet of 6061 I got from the rem pile at my local metal supply house. I like that you have a sheet metal shop and the skill to use it. I have dabbled a little in sheet metal fabrication. I have designed probably 50 sheet metal parts from very basic to highly complex. I made my own bending brake and have access to a shear, a real brake, and some die punches. I tried using a seamer and that pretty much sucked. There is a French wheel that I look at and just shake my head. I made some really nifty brackets for my trailer by bending 3/16 hot rolled sheet (not exactly sheet) that was PIA to bend on my DIY brake. Next time I have something complicated I am going to ask you about it. I do have one quick question. I model stuff in a software that has a sheet metal package that will generate a flat pattern. I learned and have always used the centerline of the material to determine the lengths in bends. The software used a different number like the arc length at 30% of the thickness. I couldn't figure out why my flat pattern and the software didn't match. Then I found the parameter and changed it to 50% and got an exact match. My question is why the 30% number, is that how it works out in practice?
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Old 05-03-2022, 09:52 AM   #23
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Dave,
I am not an expert in body repair and I have no doubt the sheet metal would work. I am just saying I would try the Bondo and decal. It is probably less than $20 dollars in materials and easy to execute. If it failed after a few months, I would then go with the sheet metal. No harm, no foul. The sheet metal (and fab), edge strip, butyl tape, and screws is going to cost a $100+. I paid $40 for a .030 thick 48x24 sheet of 6061 I got from the rem pile at my local metal supply house. I like that you have a sheet metal shop and the skill to use it. I have dabbled a little in sheet metal fabrication. I have designed probably 50 sheet metal parts from very basic to highly complex. I made my own bending brake and have access to a shear, a real brake, and some die punches. I tried using a seamer and that pretty much sucked. There is a French wheel that I look at and just shake my head. I made some really nifty brackets for my trailer by bending 3/16 hot rolled sheet (not exactly sheet) that was PIA to bend on my DIY brake. Next time I have something complicated I am going to ask you about it. I do have one quick question. I model stuff in a software that has a sheet metal package that will generate a flat pattern. I learned and have always used the centerline of the material to determine the lengths in bends. The software used a different number like the arc length at 30% of the thickness. I couldn't figure out why my flat pattern and the software didn't match. Then I found the parameter and changed it to 50% and got an exact match. My question is why the 30% number, is that how it works out in practice?
The bend allowance varies depending on the thickness and type of material; for most of the stuff we build (20 - 26ga galvanized sheet), it doesn't matter. If cutting on a plasma or laser, you also need to program a "kerf allowance" which also varies depending on the machine, process, thickness and type of material. I'm a Sheet Metal worker by trade and have been for 33 years - our shop is pretty well equipped with a 10'x 5' plasma CNC machine, 10' Rotodie, 5' air shear, plus all the usual forming rolls and roll forming equipment.

I'm not trying to pee on anyone's cornflakes but this kind of repair is similar to things I have to repair semi-regularly and while a can of filler is cheap, I just don't think you'll get a good result so it becomes a bit of a waste of time......JMHO. Realistically, body fillers are only intended for a light coating - usually 1/8" or less. A checkerplate aluminum cap would probably cost a few hundred dollars by the time you get it cut and rolled.....it's what I'd do but I'm a bit anal with my stuff.

Cheers,
Dave
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Old 05-05-2022, 02:58 PM   #24
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Easy Fix

Put a sticker over it.
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Old 05-05-2022, 03:00 PM   #25
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Attachment 364093

Anyone know a fix for this without replacing the whole cap?
If u can gain access to the back side Iím sure u could massage most of it out. Hammer and dolly specifically made will allow u to get most of it out of not all. A specifically designed hammer for body work and the a couple different shapes dollys should work wonders. Of course the easier way is what everyone else has suggested. Good luck, there r several videos out there on the web if u decide to go the way I suggested
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Old 05-05-2022, 03:02 PM   #26
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Marine- tex marine epoxy white. Tint with paint pigment. Will take a few layers
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Old 05-05-2022, 03:09 PM   #27
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Solution

Try calling a paintless dent repair person they can work wonders even with aluminum. No paint or sticker needed.
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Old 05-05-2022, 04:02 PM   #28
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It's not going to be an easy repair. The crease at the top of the dent means the metal has been stretched and it isn't just going to pop out. Filling the dent with Bondo and covering it with a sticker may look good for a day or two, but it's eventually going to pop out and look even worse.

I have seen some trailers that have the entire lower front section covered with diamond plate aluminum sheet material. It may cost a bit more at the start, but if done properly, it not only looks good, but will protect the front of your trailer from rock chips and more dents.
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