Lots of choices, except

[Ksatter]

Originally Posted by FirstRodeo

I'm trying to keep the TV I have now and I like 5ers for all the room and storage they have but don't want to haul something that big and heavy for a host of reasons like you mentioned as well.

Thanks

After reading hundreds of pages of specifications that was the chose we made. As mentioned in another reply I want to be comfortable. I don't want to be pushed all over the road due to not having enough tow vehicle. Thus, our final selection was the Lance.

You need to feel comfortable with whatever decision you make.

Good luck! I'll look forward to reading about your new TT purchase.

[Cumminsfan]

If you only have 1175# for CCC then you'll probably over the GVWR for the Tundra. I don't know if you added anything like a canopy, running boards, etc. Those all take away from the CCC.
The Lance 2375 has a dry brochure TW of 550#. If you add the sliding front cargo tray then that adds to the TW. Add 1 battery, plus propane and that 550# will be 675#.
A typical WDH will weigh around 100#'s +/-50#. So 775# on the receiver. This is not including whats also stored in the front storage compartment and under the bed.
You could be around 800 lbs all said and done.
1175#
-800#
=225# for passengers, bikes, firewood, BBG, and all extra gear you'd take on a long trip.

[FirstRodeo]

Originally Posted by Cumminsfan

If you only have 1175# for CCC then you'll probably over the GVWR for the Tundra. I don't know if you added anything like a canopy, running boards, etc. Those all take away from the CCC.
The Lance 2375 has a dry brochure TW of 550#. If you add the sliding front cargo tray then that adds to the TW. Add 1 battery, plus propane and that 550# will be 675#.
A typical WDH will weigh around 100#'s +/-50#. So 775# on the receiver. This is not including whats also stored in the front storage compartment and under the bed.
You could be around 800 lbs all said and done.
1175#
-800#
=225# for passengers, bikes, firewood, BBG, and all extra gear you'd take on a long trip.

I took the running boards off that came with the TV, not for weight I just don't like them. If I have to worry about something that insignificant I'm way over GVWR and no where near pulling 9200#

That being said am I correct thinking my TW has to come way down to start with?

Seems I need to be at 250# dry TW.......I need much more than 225# for everything in my TV. Closer to 500#>

Thank You

[schrederman]

I see this often as it comes up regularly on the RV forums I visit. I went through this recently. I owned a 28', reasonably light TT that grossed out 6500. I had an '11 F-150 and it towed it OK... but just OK. I got pushed around a lot by winds and trucks. I knew we would be getting a larger TT but I wasn't sure how big. I liked my F-150 and didn't want to get rid of it. I studied all of this and read lots of threads by people that were interested in my safety, and knew this subject matter. So after reading for 2 years, I bought my current TV. The difference was a much better experience on the road. Last year my TT increased in length by 4.5' and 1000 pounds gross weight... and the difference is barely noticeable.

So... having been through it, I'd say ditch the half ton and get a bigger truck, and since you're semi-full-timing... a bigger trailer. I know I'm much happier with the roomier trailer and the way more comfortable towing. Just my 2 cents worth... Enjoy.

[Superslif]

tongue weight or as Lance calls it dry hitch weight is 550# and 581#on the GD model.
How much does the average WDH weigh?

About 75 to 90 lbs total....If you look at the new towing standards (which Toyota was the first to be compliant) It is called SAE J2807. It allows for a 150lb. driver, a 150lb. passenger and 100lbs. of hitch equipment not sold with truck like a WD hitch, ball and bars.

Some one asked about fuel mileage for the Tundra 5.7 (2014 double cab).

~ Not towing I get 20 mpg highway driving at 62 -65 mph..which is my comfort zone. 70 it drops to 18.5 -19 mpg not much wind.

~ Towing my last trailer (2013 Aerolite 4400 dry, 25'long, 10' tall, 5500 - 6000 wet) I got 11.25 driving at 60-62 mph with no head winds, 20+ mph head winds and that goes down to 8-10 mpg. secondard roads, even with some hills driving at 50-58 mph I might get up to 11.5 to 12.0

~ New trailer (2018 Timber Ridge 6600 dry, 28.8 long, 11'6" tall, 7600 to 8000 wet) Driving back from OR. to OH with a estimated wet weight of 7500 *ran with 40 gallons of fresh water) I got 9.5 to 9.8 mpg, again at 58 to 62 mpg. was as high as 10.5 with tail wind. On flat freeway, no winds, the RPM's were running at 1900-2100 range on the Tundra. My old trailer it would settle in at 1750-1850 RPM's. Both are still in overdrive mode, but the new trailer is 18" taller, so I'm pushing a larger box. Wind is more of a issue now. At one point in WY. and NE. cross winds were over 30-40 mph and we had to get off the road and wait it out.

[Ksatter]

I have the WD / Anti sway hitch made by Equalizer. It has a total weight of 67 lbs.

I know some of the other brands can get up to 150 lbs.

[blueridge-fl]

You should figure about 100lbs for a WDH. I tow my 21 ft trailer Winnebago 2106DS with a 2014 Tundra and use an Equalizer WDH. The GVWR on the trailer is 7300lbs and we often put 2 kayaks on a rack over the truck bed. Other than firewood, we put all the camping gear in the trailer. This set up tows just fine. The WDH makes a big difference on the sag that you get on the Tundra rear end without the distribution bars in place. Oh, and the Tundra is the shorter cab with the half size rear seat. The tow rating is 10,000 lbs and 1000 lbs on the hitch.

[Ksatter]

Fuel Economy Follow-Up - I have a 2016 Tundra 4x4 5.7 long bed with towing package. I am older and drive within the speed limits.

Original MPG = 15.5
Added Fiberglass Tonneau Cover = 18.2

I usually go down to 14 ~ 14.5 when towing TT.

Hope this helps. Appears based on other posts that Tundra MPG's are all over the place.

It all depends on driving habits! Good luck with the outcome.....

[CecilD]

Plenty of comments on towing dynamics. If going with the Grand Design get the theatre seating. A comfortable chair is mandatory for extended stay.

[FirstRodeo]

Originally Posted by schrederman

I see this often as it comes up regularly on the RV forums I visit. I went through this recently. I owned a 28', reasonably light TT that grossed out 6500. I had an '11 F-150 and it towed it OK... but just OK. I got pushed around a lot by winds and trucks. I knew we would be getting a larger TT but I wasn't sure how big. I liked my F-150 and didn't want to get rid of it. I studied all of this and read lots of threads by people that were interested in my safety, and knew this subject matter. So after reading for 2 years, I bought my current TV. The difference was a much better experience on the road. Last year my TT increased in length by 4.5' and 1000 pounds gross weight... and the difference is barely noticeable.

So... having been through it, I'd say ditch the half ton and get a bigger truck, and since you're semi-full-timing... a bigger trailer. I know I'm much happier with the roomier trailer and the way more comfortable towing. Just my 2 cents worth... Enjoy.

I may need to make some adjustments as I felt my choices of TT were on the small size to begin with for long stays.

As you say there's no shortage of this type thread out there for good reason.

You may be onto something

Thanks

[Dropthejacks]

Originally Posted by FirstRodeo

I may need to make some adjustments as I felt my choices of TT were on the small size to begin with for long stays.

As you say there's no shortage of this type thread out there for good reason.

You may be onto something

Thanks

I can go ahead and tell you. If you get out there and enjoy the RVing experience as much as we do, it won't be long and you will be looking at upgrading to something with more room. We went from 29' to 33' to 38'. Loving the extra room of the Outback we have now, and loving the way the 2500 RAM maneuvers it up the road with ease. Yes, there was extra money involved to make it possible. But it has been worth the added expense. I added an aux fuel tank to make trying to pull into a small gas station a thing of the past. When we hit the road, we can kick back, put on some good music, and roll down the highway to our destination without a worry with the Cummings purring along. The TST TPMS system keeps me up to date on what is going on with my RV tires, so I know everything is good behind me. You don't have to have the biggest and the best to have fun, but there are things that will make your trip more worry free and enjoyable.

[Ksatter]

I took the advice from someone on another thread and went to a local scale and weighed my Tundra. I had a full tank of fuel (recommended) and myself when I weighed. My GVWR was 7,100 and my actual weight was 6,240 with this set-up. I then just manually started adding everything back in to see were I would be at weight wise.

Then when you throw in passengers and items in the bed of your truck it decreases the tongue capacity quickly.

The contributors on this forum know these calculations like the back of their hand. They can really assist when trying to make a decision. They convinced me that I was making a mistake going with too heavy of a trailer with too much tongue weight.

Good luck and safe travels!

[Off Road]

It is true Tundra fuel mileage is all over the map, but it is not just driving style, there are other factors as well. My Tundra had all terrain tires on it and a two inch leveling kit. It was a 4x4 doublecab. I averaged around 15 in city driving, 17 on the highway, and towing our trailer between 8-10. When towing I kept it at 60. A lower profile trailer like the Lance will help fuel economy.

[FirstRodeo]

Originally Posted by Dropthejacks

I can go ahead and tell you. If you get out there and enjoy the RVing experience as much as we do, it won't be long and you will be looking at upgrading to something with more room. We went from 29' to 33' to 38'. Loving the extra room of the Outback we have now, and loving the way the 2500 RAM maneuvers it up the road with ease. Yes, there was extra money involved to make it possible. But it has been worth the added expense. I added an aux fuel tank to make trying to pull into a small gas station a thing of the past. When we hit the road, we can kick back, put on some good music, and roll down the highway to our destination without a worry with the Cummings purring along. The TST TPMS system keeps me up to date on what is going on with my RV tires, so I know everything is good behind me. You don't have to have the biggest and the best to have fun, but there are things that will make your trip more worry free and enjoyable.

It seems most folks buy what they think at the time is the "right" RV for them only to trade it in on the next "right" one and so on. I'm sure everyone that buys an RV has thought every thing through over and over and still don't make the "right" choice for the situation they "plan" on using it at that time.
Over time many of the criteria we use in selecting our RV's changes for what ever reason it may be.
Not saying we just make bad choices, things change and this is where I am now.

My TV is my DD and I really don't want a larger truck when I'm not using it to haul an RV.

If I fall into the category that many others fall into this most likely will not be my first and or last RV.
That being said my feelings are I need to buy something that has either already been depreciated and or I got a great deal on it in case of things changing and I want to swap it out. I don't want to get hammered on resale.

After spending the weekend looking at my options I'm looking into MH's and a toad, which could be my Tundra or the DW's Rav4 if they are compatible being towed 4 down. If not I'd swap out the toad for something that fits the bill.

I really like some of the Class C's and super C's, don't think I want class A but I started here looking at TT's.

My next posts will be in the MH forums.............

Thank you for all the replies and help.