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Old 11-28-2018, 11:56 AM   #1
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LP detector alarm fuse location

So last night at 11:45, the LP alarm started going off.

I've had this camper since June and have noticed it goes off for anything: Lysol, paint, Clorox wipes, etc. Everything but propane, it seems.

Last night it was new rugs. They must be putting off some gasses. I hit reset several times, but after 20 seconds, it would start up again. There is no "off" button on this stupid thing.

I was tired and frustrated, I grabbed a pair of scissors and cut both wires. There were sparks.

Today, I need to remedy everything. But before I can do anything, I need to kill power to those wires. Does anyone know if it's on a fuse? Is it directly wired to the battery? I hope not, because then I'll have to go outside, unlock the batteries and disconnect them. Ugh.

I'm really hoping it's just a fuse. Please help.

PS: It was not an actual propane leak. The detector was green, then went to red. Yellow never came on. It is not a battery problem.

PPS: It is a 2004 Fleetwood Terry TT
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Old 11-28-2018, 12:12 PM   #2
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Cynic, Those do have a drop dead timer built in. After roughly five years they won't quit and must be replaced. Some of the older ones did not have that feature, but would eventually develop the same problem. It's probably on the same fused circuit as the monitor panel. if you can't find a fuse, you can wire the new alarm with the circuit hot, just be careful. It is only a 12v DC circuit.
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Old 11-28-2018, 12:29 PM   #3
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Cynic, Those do have a drop dead timer built in. After roughly five years they won't quit and must be replaced. Some of the older ones did not have that feature, but would eventually develop the same problem. It's probably on the same fused circuit as the monitor panel. if you can't find a fuse, you can wire the new alarm with the circuit hot, just be careful. It is only a 12v DC circuit.
I am about to order a new one on Amazon because I thought I had read that somewhere too, that they are only good for 5 years or so. Plus, I HATE this alarm!

But I'm a newby, so two questions: What is a monitor panel? Is that what I call the "fuse box"? And when you say it's a 12v DC circuit, do you mean it's only receiving power from my battery, not shore? And that it's low enough to work with if I have to?
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Old 11-28-2018, 12:40 PM   #4
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Good idea to just replace it. They are 12 volt. You got a spark because the scissors you had in your hand shorted the two wires together when you cut them.
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Old 11-28-2018, 12:48 PM   #5
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Good idea to just replace it. They are 12 volt. You got a spark because the scissors you had in your hand shorted the two wires together when you cut them.
So it's not hot? I can touch it? Sorry, I know zip about electricity except that it hurts. :-)
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Old 11-28-2018, 12:58 PM   #6
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I am about to order a new one on Amazon because I thought I had read that somewhere too, that they are only good for 5 years or so. Plus, I HATE this alarm!

But I'm a newby, so two questions: What is a monitor panel? Is that what I call the "fuse box"? And when you say it's a 12v DC circuit, do you mean it's only receiving power from my battery, not shore? And that it's low enough to work with if I have to?
The monitor panel is usually a white box on the wall, with some push button switches and some LEDs on it. When you push one of the buttons, the LEDs lie to you about how full your tanks are. The fuse box would likely be behind a rectangular brown door with some vent slots in it. On the left side are the 120v circuit breakers, and on the right a row of fuses. Sometimes they're marked, sometimes you have to guess which is which. And yes, it's pretty safe to work with 12v DC as long as you don't short it out.

Peace
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Old 11-28-2018, 02:09 PM   #7
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The monitor panel is usually a white box on the wall, with some push button switches and some LEDs on it. When you push one of the buttons, the LEDs lie to you about how full your tanks are. The fuse box would likely be behind a rectangular brown door with some vent slots in it. On the left side are the 120v circuit breakers, and on the right a row of fuses. Sometimes they're marked, sometimes you have to guess which is which. And yes, it's pretty safe to work with 12v DC as long as you don't short it out.

Peace
Ok. I have a monitor panel near the sink, but it is only for inaccurate tank levels. I also have my fuses panel, in the hallway on the floor. Half of them are labeled--the other half are not. I tried pulling fuses to see what they are, but nothing seems to be turning off when I pull them, so ...

I do have a 2-range voltage tester. Can I use that to see if the wire is hot?

Also, how does one "short it out," as I'm sure this is something I could easily do, since I have no idea what I'm doing.
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Old 11-28-2018, 02:25 PM   #8
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I just pulled the old one out. The date on the back is Dec. 2003.
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Old 11-28-2018, 03:10 PM   #9
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LP Detectors are wired DIRECTLY to the trailer battery
One of the smaller gauge wires on battery POS post
If it is Fused it will be an in-line fuse on that wire close to the battery


12V DC is enough to cause harm/burns so make sure circuit is DEAD before messing with it (just touch POS/NEG battery cables together and see the sparks.arches.melted metal)
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Old 11-30-2018, 09:51 AM   #10
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LP Detectors are wired DIRECTLY to the trailer battery


Every one I have had are not. They have all been on fuses in the rv fuse panel.



You can connect yours back up. Strip one wire at a time and twist them back together. if it doesn't wokr, you blew a fuse (highly likely). If that's the case pull out each fuse and look at it. Here's a link that includes a picture of a good and bad fuse. It's 12 volt DC stuff so it generally won't hurt you and you probably won't feel it.


https://www.yourmechanic.com/article...rocco-lovetere


If you connect the wires and it goes crazy again, simply pull the fuses one at a time (and put them back) till it shuts up.


Don't over think things. All this stuff is easy.
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Old 11-30-2018, 04:17 PM   #11
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Quote:
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LP Detectors are wired DIRECTLY to the trailer battery
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LP Detectors are wired DIRECTLY to the trailer battery


Every one I have had are not. They have all been on fuses in the rv fuse panel.
My 2018 Outdoors RV has it's LPG Alarm wired to the fuse panel. I pulled the fuse today as the parasitic draw is costing me 1.8 Ah (rated) per day and my solar panel isn't putting that back IN right now up here in the overcast Pacific North West. When occupied I will reconnect power.
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Old 12-02-2018, 09:59 PM   #12
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I've heard somewhere that the propane alarms will go off if the battery voltage gets too low. I'd look into that too.
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Old 12-03-2018, 06:01 AM   #13
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I've heard somewhere that the propane alarms will go off if the battery voltage gets too low. I'd look into that too.
Yes they will, at least some will. Its not an alarm sound but a quick beep once in awhile. It sounded on our previous trailer.

The manual for mine says its operating range is 8 to 16 volts and will give off a low voltage warning (orange flash) between 8 and 10 volts. A low power alarm goes off at 6 volts. It also says the circuit should be protected with a 1 amp fuse. The manual says nothing about it expiring after a certain date and mine is dated 08/2010. It's an Atwood Series 2001.
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Old 12-03-2018, 07:05 PM   #14
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Hot means:

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So it's not hot? I can touch it? Sorry, I know zip about electricity except that it hurts. :-)
If you did not blow the fuse already, it will still be hot. That means it will spark and startle you and it will blow the fuse.
Most likely it blew the fuse. You will have to find and replace it before the old or new one will work again.
Good safe practice requires you find the fuse, pull it, and then make repairs. The worst case for a low amp fused circuit like this is you may damage the new detector if you don't make a smooth clean connection. It is not likely, but it is possible.
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