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Old 07-30-2019, 12:24 PM   #15
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I don't understand "wet bath."
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Old 07-30-2019, 12:28 PM   #16
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I don't understand "wet bath."
A wet bath is where the toilet is IN the shower stall (or maybe the shower head is in the toilet area) - so you can't take a shower without getting the toilet all wet. You see it often in boats, and in small RVs.
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Old 07-30-2019, 01:53 PM   #17
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I'd start by following DebiT's quest for a similar setup, "wash everything in hot water" to suit your budget. Maybe even reach out to her via PM. She made an excellent choice for her needs.

Tow Vehicle
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f50/compa...kg-438494.html

Trailer
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f50/best-...er-438348.html
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Old 07-30-2019, 05:06 PM   #18
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Yep, got a Dodge Durango and a 2015 Casita Spirit Deluxe, 17 feet, wet bath, love it. Getting used to being solo little by little
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Old 07-30-2019, 05:21 PM   #19
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Travel Trailer: 2020 Forest River Wolf Pup 16FQ-D $11,400, 21'6" long, 4,000 pounds loaded, Murphy bed, separate shower and toilet and sink, handle to help going in and out.



Tow Vehicle: 2013 Ford Explorer $15,000, 3rd row seating, sunroof, backup camera, navigation, all wheel drive...


Total of about $27,000 + TT&L. That should put you right at $30,000 and you'll have a 2020 model year travel trailer.



You can also pick up a 2011ish Ranger for even cheaper if you like the Ranger. Heck, I bet you can even get an F150 for $15,000ish and you'd have absolutely no problems towing that trailer.
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Old 07-30-2019, 05:50 PM   #20
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Hmm... WA state for a year would include winter. That pretty much excludes "price-optimized" offerings from FR and Thor. I live not that far away in Central Oregon and come October the heater in the Wolfpup I had did run 15-20 minutes out of an hour.

That presents a bit of conundrum because trailers with better insulation, heated tanks etc. tend to be more expensive and heavier. Heavier in turn requires a bigger tow vehicle.

Maybe look at something like the Nash 17k (full disclosure: that's what I own), or if you can swing it Arctic Fox or Outdoor RV. All of these are made in Oregon for the Pacific NW so you could pick one up at a good price close to the factory.
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Old 07-30-2019, 06:39 PM   #21
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Hmm... WA state for a year would include winter.
Vancouver/Portland area is warmer, and much wetter, than Central OR in the winter. Any decently built but well maintained trailer will be ok here, but the more insulation the better in any conditions.

In cold weather, you'll be battling interior condensation. I usually just wipe it down with paper towels and throw them away, and I keep a little dehumidifier running to help remove moisture. If you winter West of the Cascades, liquid water will be your biggest threat. East of the Cascades, it will be more cold and solid forms of water will be more of a problem, along with keeping water flowing and sewage tanks thawed for dumping, especially in a cheaper trailer with less insulation to help protect from the cold.

I've had my ORV 19B in temps that were about -10 at night and about 10 for a daily high, but keeping everything flowing and safe was more a matter of preparation, because once frozen you might not be able to catch up to the problem until it gets warm enough to thaw out.

And no matter where you are if it's cold, you'll have condensation in the RV in some form. Best to know this ahead of time.
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Old 07-31-2019, 12:16 AM   #22
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I think you are thinking Roadtrek vans, where the poster above was referring to a Safari Trek class A, none of which ever had a wet bath. See this youtube video for an example of one of their smaller models (unless you go back to the early 1990's Isuzu chassis models which are a little smaller)



This one is one size smaller than mine (29 inches shorter)


p.s. You can find an 01 Safari Trek 2430 for around $22,000-24,000 in fairly good shape with a bit of shopping, or an 97-98 model for about $18,000 or so, again in good shape, not a fixer upper. The first Trek I looked at was a 1996 2830 for sale 3 miles from my house, seller was down to $4,900 or make offer when I walked away, it was a money pit.


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Old 07-31-2019, 06:24 AM   #23
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Quality Travel Trailer Brands

Check out this link on iRV2 for good advice.
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f50/best-...-443427-2.html
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Old 07-31-2019, 06:34 AM   #24
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Take time to visit some RV dealers and look at what they have to offer. That will help narrow your search down to what you can live with, both $$ and living comfort.
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Old 07-31-2019, 06:46 AM   #25
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Well, here you go...
A Durango setup like DebiT's, has Trailer Tow Group IV, and not too far from home. Hire an ASE certified mechanic to check it out.


https://chicago.craigslist.org/nwc/c...942875839.html

Hook up to something like this, a Winnebago Minnie Drop.
https://www.winnebagomotorhomes.com/...61101-i2522819

That should get you in the ballpark.
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Old 07-31-2019, 09:50 AM   #26
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Full time in 20 foot TT

It is a rare 20 foot TT that is designed for full time living. You can still do it if you learn how and are willing to change your life style.

Managing moisture in cold weather is foremost. Managing freezing is another. Most TT's have a furnace. You can use electric heaters. Even a small heater will do a good job in a small TT. A dehumidifier running full time will help a lot.

However, frozen plumbing is an entirely different issue. A Dutchman or Keystone may say it is "All Season". It may say it has an "enclosed and heated underbelly". That does not mean plumbing will work when temps drop below 32 degrees F.

Advertising is bait. Truth is something different. TT mfg and dealers will tell you anything you want to hear to make the sale. Buyer beware.

A quick test to see if a TT is likely to be freeze proof is to look at the waste tank dump valves. If they are exposed, the TT is not freeze proof. Also look for dual pane windows.

Even if the TT is built for occupation in freezing weather, there is still a lot to learn about keeping your equipment working and safe in cold and freezing weather.

Good luck in your new adventure!
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Old 07-31-2019, 11:21 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Podivin View Post
A wet bath is where the toilet is IN the shower stall (or maybe the shower head is in the toilet area) - so you can't take a shower without getting the toilet all wet. You see it often in boats, and in small RVs.
I wouldn't want that either.
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Old 07-31-2019, 12:37 PM   #28
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You need to first start going to RV lots and sitting in all of them. Big, large, small, tt, 5th wheel, class A, B and C. Find the floor plan that you will like. I can tell you that we have owned a Northwood and now an ORV, and how I love them but you may not.

Second, look at your budget once you find the ones that will fit your life style and start adjusting for what you will need to upgrade on the RVs to make it livable FOR YOU. Not what others think. You can buy an expensive RV but they do not include all the addons such as golf cart batteries or solar panels.

Third, now research the ones that made the final cut. Most people start this process to early. Narrow down your list even more.

Fourth, go sit in the final list RVs for a couple of hours. Invite the salesman in and entertain him in your "house". This will be your house for the amount of time you are living in the RV. Can you make dinner comfortably, is the bathroom big enough.

Last, buy the one you want, then buy the Tow Vehicle or Toad that fits the RV.

Last pieces of advice.

Looking online is a good place to start but you have to get out and get inside them.

It is different to camp in a 21 foot RV than to live full time in one.

The PNW is tough on RVs due to moisture, do not get single pane windows. Buy and leave running a dehumidifier. Make sure you leave cabinets and drawers occasionally to help stop moisture build up.

If looking at new the is wiggle room on price and sometimes they will drop trailer price to help with the addons.
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