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09 harley · 02-04-2015, 04:41 PM

Fridge is model 621
The install instructions are not very clear. I will connect the red and green wires to the 12V wires that go into the control box behind the access door. The boiler and fan sensor are simple and I will use the fan sensor to control the two fans I added up top and also the interior Fridge-Fix fan. That will be a good setup. The question is the yellow wire. One picture shows it going to the boiler housing thermal switch. The problem is that this switch is an option, believe it or not, and I don't have it. Another picture shows it going to the bottom of the control box but doesn't indicate where to connect it. The third picture shows the yellow wire with the wording " 12V power to fridge". What does that mean.
This has got to be simple but the manual is not clear at all, at least to me. If someone has installed a unit on the same or similar model I would appreciate your kind assistance. The Norcold 1200 is completely different so it doesn't apply. Thanks for any and all help!

09 harley · 02-05-2015, 08:49 PM

This may be shortest post ever. My original and now this. An ARP is the absorbtion refrigeration protection control. I was having problems with the wiring but I finally figured it out. I'm not an electrician so I require precise instructions or diagrams for wiring. If I wing it I usually have problems.
Anyhow, after I complete my install I will report back on how the system works and if my fridge is more efficient. It really has to be with the two added exhaust fans and the interior fan. It will also be nice to know that being way off level will not damage the fridge.

All_Mountain · 01-30-2017, 08:31 AM

If you connect your interior fan to the control it will only come on when the outside temperature is high enough to raise the returning ammonia temperature to the set point that turns on the fans, on at 110 degrees F, turns off when the temperature drops to 95 degrees F.

I have an interior fan that currently runs 24 hours per day. It is keeping the ice off of the refrigerator cooling fins and keeping everything in the refrigerator the same temperature as it has eliminated the hot and cold spots.

I'm not sure what the typical duty cycle is for the refrigerator. If it was 50% maybe that would be enough circulation to keep the fins defrosted and eliminate the hot and cold spots if you could find a 12 volt source that is only on when the refrigerator is running.

Each of the two fans draws .11 -> .14 amps @ 12 volts. That's a little over 29 kw per year if you use your refrigerator 24/7.

IC2 · 01-30-2017, 09:07 AM

Subscribing since I haven't taken the time to understand the gibberish instructions either. Depending on what you click on the ARP website you can get contradictory instructions and never a clear schematic. I don't want theory of operation on an instruction sheet that I have to wade through. That's for a brochure or other separate paper for those who care. Just tell me where to put the wires (good schematic, pictures, etc) and how to make it work.

powercat_ras · 01-30-2017, 09:30 AM

Splice the ARP Green (ground) Wire into the OEM refrigerator ground wire (usually black).

The OEM 12 volt power wire (usually yellow) going to the refrigerator, cut it. The end coming from the RV wiring , connect to the ARP Red (12 volt in) wire. The end coming from the refrigerator, connect to the ARP Yellow (12 volt to refrigerator) wire.

OEM Wire coming from Refrigerator Fans to the refrigerator, cut it. Insulate the wire end you cut going to the refrigerator, it's no longer used. Connect the wire from the fans to the ARP Blue (12 volt to fans) wire.

Be sure to take the time to mount the temp sensors where ARP says to for proper operation. That is the part that is a pain in the keister to do. It tears up your hands to get up in there.