Community Forums

Fred72933 · 04-06-2017, 10:52 AM

Just joined the group and I am looking for help.

My 2013 Hideout came without a warranty and I have found several things the need repair or explanation. The dealership was not very helpful and seemed more interested in getting my signature and getting me off the lot. Most problems are simple and easy to fix but two things need a bit more.

The camper has a holding tank flush system and I really don't understand how to use it. Do you just connect the inlet to a water hose and turn it on? Is there anything else to do other than just open the dump valve and let it drain?

Second, my hot water heater. The camper has a Suburban SW6DEL and I have found the manuals for operation and service online and downloaded them. Here's the issue:

I reinserted the zinc rod (camper fully winterized) capped the water holding tank and turned on the water source. Then I went inside and slowly opened the hot water faucet to let the tank fill. When it quit burping air, I went out and opened the pressure valve and there was a light whoosh of air but no water came out no matter how long I held it open. Is the tank full or do I have a problem there?

Next, I turned on the exterior switch for the 110v heater and went inside, flipped the interior switch to electric heat to on and went to bed. The next morning, I still had no hot water. I rechecked the pressure relief valve, still no water even though I have water from the hot faucets. So, I turned off the interior electric switch and with the gas on & working, flipped on the gas switch for hot water. The red reset light came on and stayed on. So, how long should I wait for the gas to light before expecting something to happen? Where is the reset? (I downloaded the manuals but haven't printed them out or read them yet) I would hate to have to replace a hot water heater right off the bat.

I'm getting ready to print and study the manuals about the hot water heater but any advice would be deeply appreciated.

tbos1958 · 04-06-2017, 12:41 PM

Fred,
There is a Keystone forum on line too. There are lots of very active mechanically inclined folks in that forum. Many of them will have the same systems you have and can help. My first guess on the water heater is the bypass might be on. Make sure there are no cob webs or bugs in the gas burner. I don't have the same WH so I can't help you much beyond that. I always turn the stove on to make sure I have a good flow of gas. Usually doing the will get the air out of the system and the fridge and WH will light easily. For the BW flush you are correct. Connect a separate hose that you will only use for that. Open the black tank valve and turn on the water to the flush. If you decide to let the flush fill the tank some after the initial dump make sure you watch and don't overfill it. That can be a catastrophic mess. Good rule of thumb when flushing the black tank is don't get distracted. Good luck.

chaps2018 · 04-10-2017, 07:33 PM

1-Water fill: you are correct to verify the tank is full of water before applying power or gas to the hot water tank. Once you bled the air out of the system and it re pressurized, water should have come out of the emergency valve when you opened it...dont ask how i know. Assuming you were using the city water fill or if using the fresh water tank, leave the pump on to maintain pressure. Just checking, you did bleed the hot water side? It should have taken a min or two to bleed if the system was empty. (ie, since you are filling a 6 gallon Hot water heater). The cold water side will bleed within 20 seconds or so.

1.5-it may be possible that the hot heater has bypass valves on it. They are right near the tank on the inside of the trailer. You can follow the plumbing to see how the two valves in one position will bypass the hot water heater tank. This is used when there is antifreeze in the system to avoid filling the hot water tank with antifreeze. If the bypass valves were set then that would explain why the emergency valve didn't have water coming out of it when you opened it.

2-Electric: If the tank was not full when you turned on the electric element then it may have burned up the element--easy fix $15 at amazon.

3-Gas: The Red light is an ignition failure light. It likely indicates gas has not made it back to the hot water heater as mentioned above. Light the stove burners as suggested each time you take the rig out to get the gas flowing. It still may take a few resets of the gas igniter unit the gas gets back there if you haven't used gas in a while. To reset it, just turn it off and then back on. Usually fires within 3 resets.

Badlands Bob · 04-11-2017, 08:20 AM

I'm betting on the HW heater bypass valves set to winterize.

Fred72933 · 04-11-2017, 11:15 AM

I finally found the bypass valve and yes, it was set to winterize. It was behind a panel held in place with 6 screws. No signs or stickers giving the location, nothing in the owner's manual, just pray that the dealership tells you where it is and sets it right before you leave. With that corrected, the hot water tank quickly filled and the relief valve dumped water finally. However, it was too late. The damage is done and the electric element is probably burned out. I tried to heat water for over 2 hours and no luck so now I need to trouble shoot the circuit to make certain the element is the only thing out. I got the trailer parked where I can work on it so it's just a matter of the "round tuit".

Thanks everyone for you help.