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Old 10-05-2020, 07:20 PM   #1
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Norcold fridge issue

I just bought a 2005 21 foot Komfort travel trailer, it is in very good shape and everything works except the fridge does not turn on, the display will not light up at all. Both the ac and dc fuses on the pc board are good and I have checked the voltage at the ac plug and the dc wires. the voltage reading at the dc wires is the same as the reading from the fuse (around 13v). Previous owner took out the model number sticker from inside the fridge. Would appreciate any advice on further troubleshooting or identifying fridge model. Thank you!
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Old 10-05-2020, 11:13 PM   #2
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Looks like a N6XX/N8XX Series

The Yellow and White wires going to circuit board are the 12VDC POS(Yellow) and 12VDC NEG (White)
They connect to '12VDC terminal' and the 'GND1 terminal"\

Did you check for 12VDC at those 2 terminals?
Did you verify that the 5a fuse *auto blade is getting & passing 12VDC ?
*using a voltmeter
Then you need to check the 12VDC to display controls via the harness
See pg 11
http://techsupport.pdxrvwholesale.co...er-619394E.pdf
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Old 10-05-2020, 11:45 PM   #3
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No wonder it's not working, it's in sideways!

Just kidding, listen to Old Biscuit, he's the pro!
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Old 10-06-2020, 08:39 AM   #4
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I get pictures that are turned when I post too sometimes. They look ok on my phone but when I post them they appear sideways or upside.
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Old 10-06-2020, 03:40 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit View Post
Looks like a N6XX/N8XX Series

The Yellow and White wires going to circuit board are the 12VDC POS(Yellow) and 12VDC NEG (White)
They connect to '12VDC terminal' and the 'GND1 terminal"\

Did you check for 12VDC at those 2 terminals?
Did you verify that the 5a fuse *auto blade is getting & passing 12VDC ?
*using a voltmeter
Then you need to check the 12VDC to display controls via the harness
See pg 11
http://techsupport.pdxrvwholesale.co...er-619394E.pdf
Sounds like you've been endorsed as an expert with Norcold. How would you troubleshoot a Norcold N7 that works great both gas and electric when parked, but has a nasty habit of shutting down while traveling?
It's a problem on many Lance trailers. Fridge is a side mount with vent on the roof. Norcold has provided baffles to partially block incoming air from the service panel but that didn't help. Doesn't happen all the time, but likely 75% of the time.

There are a bunch of us on the LOA forum trying to figure this out
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Old 10-06-2020, 04:57 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit View Post
Looks like a N6XX/N8XX Series

The Yellow and White wires going to circuit board are the 12VDC POS(Yellow) and 12VDC NEG (White)
They connect to '12VDC terminal' and the 'GND1 terminal"\

Did you check for 12VDC at those 2 terminals?
Did you verify that the 5a fuse *auto blade is getting & passing 12VDC ?
*using a voltmeter
Then you need to check the 12VDC to display controls via the harness
See pg 11
http://techsupport.pdxrvwholesale.co...er-619394E.pdf

Yes I have 13.2v at the yellow and white wires and both sides of the 5a fuse and the eyebrow display panel. I have 120v at the plug and both sides of the ac fuse. Do you think I might need a new pc board or a new eyebrow? If so which would you recommend I start with?
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Old 10-06-2020, 10:47 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by Komfortkween View Post
Yes I have 13.2v at the yellow and white wires and both sides of the 5a fuse and the eyebrow display panel. I have 120v at the plug and both sides of the ac fuse. Do you think I might need a new pc board or a new eyebrow? If so which would you recommend I start with?
You state.....
"....both sides of the 5a fuse and the eyebrow display panel."

So you have verified you have DC at the upper panel....then upper panel is your issue as outlined on Pg 11 in the service manual I linked
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Old 10-06-2020, 11:09 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by lamokadave View Post
Sounds like you've been endorsed as an expert with Norcold. How would you troubleshoot a Norcold N7 that works great both gas and electric when parked, but has a nasty habit of shutting down while traveling?
It's a problem on many Lance trailers. Fridge is a side mount with vent on the roof. Norcold has provided baffles to partially block incoming air from the service panel but that didn't help. Doesn't happen all the time, but likely 75% of the time.

There are a bunch of us on the LOA forum trying to figure this out
You are probably getting a Fault Light (Solid RED Power ON Indicator Light/N7X OR 'No' 'FL' code/N7LX)
Flame failure/Gas Lock Out
When Flame goes OFF because Temp setting has been reached then tries to Relight as fridge temp rises the Flame must light off AND Prove it lit.

Flame Rectification creates an AC Current that gets rectified into a DC Current (few milliamps) that the circuit board senses.
Spark Electrode provides the High Voltage for ignition of the gas AND provides return path for that milliamp flame proving signal

While in transit that is not occurring so fridge fails
Could be disruption of airflow but I suspect it has more to do with the Spark Electrode
*If electrode is dirty/sooty the milliamp current can be lost
*If electrode wire is loose in the ceramic insulator and/or connector is dirty/loose milliamp current can be lost
*If ceramic insulator is cracked....lost of signal
*Spark gap too wide/too narrow....signal lost

*Loose wires on gas valve solenoids
*Loose grounds on gas valve solenoids

* Bad gas train assembly (can't replace individual components like other fridges...have to replace the WHOLE gas valve/spark electrode assembly)

IDng issues while in transit is difficult cause you can't WATCH it as it happens


Service Manual for th N7/N8 Series
http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/ncold_polar_n_series.pdf
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Old 10-07-2020, 11:27 AM   #9
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Thanks for the great info. If I can further impose with more questions. Is there any type of overheat/ shutdown function on this fridge? Due to where we live, virtually anytime we leave on a trip we spend significant time ascending and decending long steep grades, ie 6% for 6 to 18 miles. That means for extended periods of time the fridge is beyond 3 degrees from level. Might this play a role in the shutdown?

We always precool the fridge for 18 or more hrs, and try to load it hrs before we travel to give it a chance at least be an adequate passive cooler. It's typically in the 90s when we leave so im pretty certain the fridge never reaches a point where its reaches a set point and does a normal flame out and just fails to restart. I'm fairly confident that something is causing it to extinguish and then it fails to relight. Do you think it's reasonable to try to totally shield the burner from any type of air disturbance in a way that doesn't restrict air flow to the evaporator?

Do you think air currents from the roof top chimney are a likely issue or more likely from the service panel?
This has been such a frustrating situation for many Lance owners, with no real support from Norcold.
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Old 10-07-2020, 02:46 PM   #10
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High temp sensor of Stack ---DC wires go directly to Circuit Board Terminals[/COLOR]

We always precool the fridge for 18 or more hrs, and try to load it hrs before we travel to give it a chance at least be an adequate passive cooler. It's typically in the 90s when we leave so im pretty certain the fridge never reaches a point where its reaches a set point and does a normal flame out and just fails to restart. I'm fairly confident that something is causing it to extinguish and then it fails to relight. Do you think it's reasonable to try to totally shield the burner from any type of air disturbance in a way that doesn't restrict air flow to the evaporator?

IF you are precooling for 18 hrs then freezer and food compartment SHOULD be COLD
What temp is in the 90's....fridge or ambient air temps?
If ambient.....fridge should still be COLD especially after 18hrs of precooling == if NOT fridge is not working correctly


Do you think air currents from the roof top chimney are a likely issue or more likely from the service panel?
This has been such a frustrating situation for many Lance owners, with no real support from Norcold.[/QUOTE]

Air disturbance .... possible
Propane has a narrow range fuel/air ratio
Below 2% Gas...no ignition (too air rich)
Above 10% Gas...no ignition (too fuel rich)
System pressure is only 0.39psi

So Fuel/Air ratio has to be correct or no ignition

A 'shield' to isolate burner could prevent air gusts that could disrupt the flame.

My Dometic has a Cover Shield that almost completely encloses the burner area (Dometics Idea/Concept for Recalls ---- Norcold went with a Recall Box)





Hasn't interfered with burner operation and it has been that way since 2008

Hope some of this helps.

In transit intermittent issues with gas ops is difficult at best
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Old 10-07-2020, 10:12 PM   #11
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Apologies if I wasn't clear. Yes the fridge is cold after precooling, and the 90s is outside temp. After loading food with door open to allow that fridge warms to low 40s so I don't think it ever extinguishes the flame via the control board while traveling. Thanks for the air fuel ratio info. Easy to see how air disturbance can be very disruptive
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Old 10-07-2020, 10:18 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by lamokadave View Post
Apologies if I wasn't clear. Yes the fridge is cold after precooling, and the 90s is outside temp. After loading food with door open to allow that fridge warms to low 40s so I don't think it ever extinguishes the flame via the control board while traveling. Thanks for the air fuel ratio info. Easy to see how air disturbance can be very disruptive
Fridge Low 40's ....flame will go out cause thermostat will shut it down
Thermostat temp range is roughly 36*f --42*F

SO if the drive is over an hour...flame will be shut off and try to relight provided it works
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Old 10-07-2020, 10:47 PM   #13
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I had pretty much the same recall/fix on my last Lance TC, always “what I thought blew out” while driving, even after the “fix”. Learned to live with it, fridges will stay cold for a very long time as long as it’s cold before you start driving... I know that’s not the point.. but.

I did try one time going 12v when driving, got to our site and had absolutely no power to anything fridge related, got the old multi meter out and traced it out to a burnt fuseable link that was part of the so called fix, hard wired for the rest of the stay, took it back to shop that installed it, they replaced again for free. Never turned 12v side on again. But it still blew out 80% of the time when driving on propane.

I have to wonder, how much of a difference it makes having side fridge vs rear fridge. This rear kitchen trailer fridge hasn’t had any issues and we’ve had some long days driving, in some pretty windy conditions..

Btw: Not that it matter, it was a Dometic.
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