Oh Dear, Soft Floor !

[Downwindtrac]

I have a problem, I can deal with the the rotten chipboard, simply replace with pressure treated plywood . But I think I have rot in the wall. Our TT is an early OutdoorRV, a 2012 build. It's a hybrid, standard stud walls with fiberglass coated hardboard . The bottom plate looks like I'll have to replace it. A stick and tin would be easy, peel the aluminum and splice in Douglas fir. How do you deal with that fiberglass hardboard ?

I would think they would have used construction adhesive ? At least they should have.

We love the floorplan , a Creekside 20FQ. From the factory it came with a reinforced double frame. I've done a fair bit of work on it, repairing, modifying and replacing.

[JMitchell]

I had to redo the full rear wall on our 2014 Sonic, luckily it wasn't the side wall, but I did need to rip pressure treated 6x2 down to 2x2 and reframe the roof, corners, and rear wall supports.

Peeled up the construction board/fiberglass roof / roll over to the rear wall and scraped the rotted layers out of the construction board.

Construction adhesive a new layer of construction board for support to the rear wall (up to the radius of the roof) and construction glued it to the new studs. New stainless exterior grade screws all outside, and dicor corner tape to bond it all together.

Reattached trim with new urethane putty tape.

Interior covering (after reinsulating with fiberglass batting and redoing the rear wall electric) was done with home Depot FRP sheets anchored in the new studs with plastic rivets.

Lot of measuring and cutting, but final product was very very nice.

[JMitchell]

Originally Posted by JMitchell

I had to redo the full rear wall on our 2014 Sonic, luckily it wasn't the side wall, but I did need to rip pressure treated 6x2 down to 2x2 and reframe the roof, corners, and rear wall supports.

Peeled up the construction board/fiberglass roof / roll over to the rear wall and scraped the rotted layers out of the construction board.

Construction adhesive a new layer of construction board for support to the rear wall (up to the radius of the roof) and construction glued it to the new studs. New stainless exterior grade screws all outside, and dicor corner tape to bond it all together.

Reattached trim with new urethane putty tape.

Interior covering (after reinsulating with fiberglass batting and redoing the rear wall electric) was done with home Depot FRP sheets anchored in the new studs with plastic rivets.

Lot of measuring and cutting, but final product was very very nice.

Photos. Hard 3 day weekend...

[JMitchell]

Oh, forgot a step.

All exposed wood, weather PT or original damaged wood (floor studs that were sistered) were soaked in Clorox, dried, then soaked and coated in 2 part epoxy to strengthen and stabilize them. Floor turned out like 1 solid piece after sistering/screwing/epoxying. And made a great base for peel and stick vinyl tiles (non porous surface)
Attachment 389193

[Downwindtrac]

Gosh, that was a seriously major undertaking. I think I might have walked away. I have under my belt , on the tent trailer, our first RV, I replaced 1/3 of the floor by lifting the box and sliding the PT plywood under and made a whole new hard top roof box. For my hunting truck camper redid the wings and back end. A stick and tin. This trailer has the lower half of nose framing redone. I replaced the paper thin checkerplate with thicker aluminum .That was easy once the sheet was off. However the siding has me flummoxed . I think the window frame culprit .