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Really depends on the products used.
With the Northwoods trailers you get a beefy 8" tall frame. They are decently strong. The typical stabilizers installed are not really up to the task of lifting the trailer, but if for example you use your tongue jack, then drop the stabilizers, then lift the tongue jack and slap some more wood under it, this is normal and II think many of us have had to do this at a sloped site. I have to do it in my driveway.
My last trailer had some wimpy stabilizers that hardly worked. I pulled them off and bought some autostyle cross jacks that were very stout. I welded them to the frame and all was good. With that setup I could jack up the trailer if I wanted to change a tire, etc. I still used them as stabilizers most of the time. If I jacked, I was careful to jack all corners as evenly as possible to avoid bending the wimpy frame on that LITE trailer.
Back when I was a kid, normal practice was to use up to 3 inches of wood under the Nomad's twin axles, and do the rest of the jacking with blocks of wood, a hydraulic bottle jack and then slip in the A-frame jacks. It took a while, and never had an issue with the trailer, I think we used it for about 15 years, and they were actually built worse than some modern trailers. LOL
My ORV trailer has electric stabilizers, they are not intended to jack, and the instructions say you can run them until the motor stalls. A self limiting design. I don't run them that hard.. The trailer is already pretty solid with the beefy frame.
5th wheels and motorhomes tend to have jacks rated for lifting. They are tied very well into the frames.
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2018 ORV 25RDS
2011 Ford F150 Ecoboost
1973 IH Scout II with mods (exploring & tenting)
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