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Old 10-23-2021, 11:38 AM   #1
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Power and Converter issues

Here the photo of the panel. Not sure if these are right with all 30 amp
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Old 10-23-2021, 12:09 PM   #2
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If you are talking about the blue fuses, no its not right. Also looks like two are burnt at the top. Would need top pull each fuse and find out what they go to and then install the correct size. burnt connections need to be repaired. Could be from overload or loose connection at terminal. Putting your coach info in your signature will help us help you.
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Old 10-23-2021, 12:42 PM   #3
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It's a 1994, Dutchman classic 360 and there no manual of this type of.. idk what fuse to even use as it came with all 30 amp fuse into it.. not sure what amp they all need
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Old 10-23-2021, 12:49 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nightmare View Post
It's a 1994, Dutchman classic 360 and there no manual of this type of.. idk what fuse to even use as it came with all 30 amp fuse into it.. not sure what amp they all need

FYI, fuses are colored coded, blue being a 15 amp fuse. The picture is not in focus if you want to add a new one, but other than the heat evidence it is hard to see any problem. A digital voltage meter could be your friend if you don't have one already.

What are the issues you are encountering, that may lead to more specific thoughts? ~CA
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Old 10-23-2021, 12:56 PM   #5
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Tring to see if this fues are right, as it does not look right to me.. as they are all 30 amp fuses installed.. the water pump not working and the fuses keeps tripping
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Old 10-23-2021, 01:04 PM   #6
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MagneTek 600 Series....yours is a 6345 model
45A DC continuous max load (everything on DC System plus Charging Battery)

MAX DC FUSE....20A
Most of those Individual circuit fuses should be 5A, 7.5A and 10A

NONE use a 30A Fuse

Left to Right Positions
The first 6 fuses are Main Circuits....fridge, lights, furnace
*Fridge 5A,,,,Lights?multiple circuits 15A and Furnace 15A
The last 3 fuses are ACC Circuits....Water pump, panel indicator, LP Detector
*Water pump/Monitor 15A, LP Detector 5A

Fuse #3 and Fuse #6 show indications of overheating....charred area on board


**Each Fuse Circuit needs to be Identified as to what it supplies DC to and then the correct size fuse used
Get Rid of those 30A fuses. Nothing on that panel uses that size---20A MAX and 20A is not needed
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Old 10-23-2021, 02:46 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit View Post
MagneTek 600 Series....yours is a 6345 model
45A DC continuous max load (everything on DC System plus Charging Battery)

MAX DC FUSE....20A
Most of those Individual circuit fuses should be 5A, 7.5A and 10A

NONE use a 30A Fuse

Left to Right Positions
The first 6 fuses are Main Circuits....fridge, lights, furnace
*Fridge 5A,,,,Lights?multiple circuits 15A and Furnace 15A
The last 3 fuses are ACC Circuits....Water pump, panel indicator, LP Detector
*Water pump/Monitor 15A, LP Detector 5A

Fuse #3 and Fuse #6 show indications of overheating....charred area on board


**Each Fuse Circuit needs to be Identified as to what it supplies DC to and then the correct size fuse used
Get Rid of those 30A fuses. Nothing on that panel uses that size---20A MAX and 20A is not needed

so i remove the 30 amp and put in only 20 amp only? as i not sure if i have ant other fuse of 7.5a
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Old 10-23-2021, 02:54 PM   #8
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You should go thru each fuse/circuit and ID what it is for
*pull one fuse at a time and then try to turn on all DC Items (lights/water pump/Furnace-A/C Unit/fridge etc)
Label each fuse...then use the Correct size fuse for that circuit

**Although 20A is MAX Fuse size for that MagneTek....20A is not the correct size for all appliances
15A will be the most common (fridge circuit S/B 5A)

30A fuses......wires will melt before those fuses blow
And if you are having any circuits with 30A blowing....then wiring is SHORTED or Appliances is SHORTED
Find/correct that issue before using any fuse
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Old 10-23-2021, 09:52 PM   #9
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If you intend on keeping this rig a while, you should consider replacing the converter as the original converter (inside the lower section of this unit) will boil your batteries. The Progressive Dynamics 4600 series replacement converter is a perfect fit an comes with a perfect fit fuse panel that is better quality than the original.

Hopefully you have the cover plate that fits the LH half of the panel, surrounding the 120v circuit breakers, and that you just have it removed for the pics.

https://www.bestconverter.com/PD4645...l#.YXTJw4gpA1I

I have installed two of these so far and am quite pleased with them. A note, you do NOT need the "optional pendant" that is mentioned, as that function is available via a LED and push button on the new fuse panel.

Blue fuses should be 15 amp. 7.5 amp is brown, 10 amp is red, 15 amp is blue, 20 amp is yellow, and 30 amp is green.

Cheap off brand fuses are a guessing game. There are a couple of Youtube videos where they take cheap off brand fuses and carefully load them with a controlled voltage and load and the cheap ones usually failed to blow anywhere close to the rated amperage. The Littelfuse brand and Bussman (Eaton Corp) are a known quality fuse and should be the ones to use. The new fuse panel will have LEDs at each fuse position to show if a fuse is blown (providing there is a load on the circuit, such as a light turned on). The fuses are known interchangably as ATC (Bussman) and ATO (Littelfuse) style fuses. Note the spelling of Littelfuse.

One pic is of the installation in my Bigfoot trailer, the other is my Winnebago View motor home (now sold). I stayed with a 45 amp converter in the trailer as I did not want to upsize the wiring.

Charles
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Old 10-24-2021, 07:11 AM   #10
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The guys are right, those are all 15A (blue) fuses.
Don't use anything larger.


Quote:
Originally Posted by CharlesinGA View Post
...................Blue fuses should be 15 amp. 7.5 amp is brown, 10 amp is red, 15 amp is blue, 20 amp is yellow, and 30 amp is green.

Cheap off brand fuses are a guessing game. There are a couple of Youtube videos where they take cheap off brand fuses and carefully load them with a controlled voltage and load and the cheap ones usually failed to blow anywhere close to the rated amperage. The Littelfuse brand and Bussman (Eaton Corp) are a known quality fuse and should be the ones to use.............................Charles
^^^This^^^

Cheap fuses usually have thinner blades and don't fit tight in the female connector.

Loose connector = heat, which is more likely the cause of the cause of the burnt area around fuses #3 & #6 than any problems with the downstream load.
As a short would have blown a fuse by now.

Either get some better fuses or pinch the connectors a bit with some needle nose pliers so they get a better bite on the fuses.

Anyhoo, I would check the fit of the fuse before I started looking for other problems.



Also, I notice that fuses #7 & #8 are different brand than the rest (judging from the pic).
Those two are probably decent OEM fuses and the others have been replaced.
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Old 10-24-2021, 10:21 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nightmare View Post
Tring to see if this fues are right, as it does not look right to me.. as they are all 30 amp fuses installed.. the water pump not working and the fuses keeps tripping
Lots of good advice above!

This may be the manual for your converter/charger. It has various people's experience with fixing them attached at the bottom.

https://www.hayseed.net/~jpk5lad/RV%...%20Binder1.pdf

Why do you think all the fuses are 30 amp fuses?

Do you mean breakers trip or do you mean fuses blow out?
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Old 10-25-2021, 12:32 AM   #12
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OP's fuse panel is so old it does not have the 30 amp reverse current protection fuses.

Here is what my original 2008 Parallax fuse panel looked like.

The pics I posted were related to a thread I created on the BigfootRV Owners Club Intl. forum about installing ferrules on the ends of wires to prevent wild or flayed strands and associated problems that occur when set screws tightened on fine strand copper wire crushes and cuts the strands. This explains the annotation on the pics.

I will post a couple of pics also of my 12v DC ground bar before and after the ferrule installation. I remounted the bar so it stands up rather than laying on its side. Irrelevant to the discussion at hand but useful none-the-less.

Charles
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