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07-20-2015, 06:32 AM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 27
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Power Cord conversion
Any experiences with FURRION 30amp power cord conversion??
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07-20-2015, 07:24 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 4,232
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Conversion? From what?
Furrion cords are fine, no problem from them.
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07-20-2015, 07:34 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 333
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?????
to what
Jim
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07-20-2015, 07:48 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 3,797
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Just checked. It is a way to change a hard-wired power cord to one that plugs into the RV. Some newer RV's already have one of these, but my 1999 Trek has a 50 A power cord, connected to the transfer switch, that must be pushed through a little door every time I hook up (have you ever wrestled with a 50A cord in cold weather? ). The Furrian product has an outside plug for the RV, and a new plug that is attached to the RV end existing power cord. $87.84 from Amazon, and I may get one.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sprayman
to what
Jim
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__________________
George Schweikle Lexington, KY
2005 Safari (Monaco)Trek 28RB2, Workhorse W20, 8.1, Allison 1000 5 spd, UltraPower engine & tranny, Track bars & sway bars, KONI FSD, FMCA 190830, Safari Int'l. chapter. 1999 Safari Trek 2830, 1995 Safari Trek 2430, 1983 Winnebago Chieftain, 1976 Midas Mini
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07-20-2015, 08:17 AM
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#5
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 52
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I have the kit and love it. It was the first thing I did to my camper after I brought it home. Not only is hooking up much easier now but I also gained another cabinet for storage where the power cable used to be.
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07-20-2015, 08:22 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 8,055
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Interesting. IMHO the plug in power cord is another problem waiting to happen. I'd rather have it attached.
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07-20-2015, 08:31 AM
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#7
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 28
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I converted using a Park Power cord so that I could have a right-angle plug at the trailer port - not fond of the load of a straight plug hanging "cantilevered" off the trailer. Other than having to fabricate an adapter plate, because the inlet power port was smaller than the hole left upon removal of the hatch plate, piece of cake.
Do consider that the new cord will be easily removable by someone who wants to, um, "borrow it indefinitely"...
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07-20-2015, 10:29 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 3,797
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Well, phooey, why did you have to bring that up?.
Quote:
Originally Posted by austex
...Do consider that the new cord will be easily removable by someone who wants to, um, "borrow it indefinitely"...
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__________________
George Schweikle Lexington, KY
2005 Safari (Monaco)Trek 28RB2, Workhorse W20, 8.1, Allison 1000 5 spd, UltraPower engine & tranny, Track bars & sway bars, KONI FSD, FMCA 190830, Safari Int'l. chapter. 1999 Safari Trek 2830, 1995 Safari Trek 2430, 1983 Winnebago Chieftain, 1976 Midas Mini
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07-20-2015, 03:38 PM
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#9
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 27
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hard wired to disconnect at trailer instead of stuffing cord back in..........should have been more clear, sorry
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07-20-2015, 06:56 PM
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#10
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 82
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I have one and it's great. My plug is in a very awkward place and the area is very small for the cord. It was one of the first mods to my new TT.
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07-20-2015, 08:15 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,580
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nothermark
Interesting. IMHO the plug in power cord is another problem waiting to happen. I'd rather have it attached.
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I guess that there are only two of us that doesn't want these stupid things. I removed my water leaking connection and installed a hatch, then hard wired the cord.
What did I gain?
1. No more rain water getting in. (factory defect)
2. Threw away the twist-lock end with the loose terminal. (fire hazard)
3. No troublesome locking ring.
4. Removed a fire hazard (wires weren't tightened at factory).
5. No need to throw entire coil of cable on the ground.
6. Used otherwise wasted space to store cable.
7. No lugging dirty cable back and forth.
8. Now the DW is happy to do this chore.
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07-21-2015, 12:44 PM
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#12
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 52
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I guess everyone's situation is different. I want the OP to hear both sides.
1. I never had a water leak problem at the mouse hole, but water and dirt would get inside when I had to stuff a wet dirty cable back into the hole.
2. My twist lock has always worked perfectly.
3. My locking ring has always worked perfectly.
4. My shore power conversion has much more secure wiring now than the factory setup.
5. I keep my shore cable in a small tote with an opening on each side, one to plug into the shore power and one on the opposite end to plug into the camper. Cable never sits on the ground so it never gets wet or dirty. Tote stores easily in the front bin. You can do the same with your water hose.
6. I gained another cabinet for storage that was being wasted holding the attached cable.
7. See 5
8. Hooking up to power now is much easier for DW to do.
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07-21-2015, 12:48 PM
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#13
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by George Schweikle
Well, phooey, why did you have to bring that up?.
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It's just as easy for a thief to simply cut an attached shore power cable as it is to unscrew one with a plug kit. If they want it they are going to get it. I will say in all my years of camping I have never had any theft problems of any kind.
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